Question....I have unlimited access to 1/0 and 2/0 welding cable and cutters. I would like to make my own battery cables. I have a couple of hiccups. Will I be able to fined ends that fit on this size wire? I'm not sure how to terminate my B+ and B- to the alternator??? It has a small black box with what looks like two terminals on it. I would like to know what I'm doing without taking the alternator out??? 1996 XJ Cherokee Classic, 4.0. I've taken a couple pictures from underneath the rig, I'll try to upload them. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Sorry - I slipped on this one.
I'd start by checking with a local welding supply house, if you have one - you'll likely be able to find what you need there.
Just note that 0AWG and 00AWG is MASSIVE overkill - if you have access to it
gratis, it's not a problem - but if you're going to buy cable, you're just throwing away money. But, I do recall that ring lugs are available in 1/4", 5/16", 3/8", and 1/2" for those cable sizes.
NB: There are a few things to watch out for:
- For those of you with "two-post" PDCs (some OBD-I units had two M6-1.0 input studs,) you'll need to keep the "flag end" of the OEM terminal to tie the two posts together. The OEM lug is tinned copper, and therefore will cut & dress easily with hand tools.
- If you replace the alternator output cable,
it is fused from the factory! RENIX used a segment of 10AWG fusible link wire (OEM lead is 6AWG,) OBD-I used a pair of MAXI50 or MAXI60 fuses, OBD-II was back to the fusible link. Any high-current form factor fuse will work, with MEGA and ANL being common (I prefer the ANL fuses, they're easier to find and you can service them in the field in about a minute, you don't have to take things to bits. The ends are slotted - loosen the nuts, slip out the blown fuse, slip in the new fuse, tighten. Posts are either 5/16"-18 or M8-1.25, use thumb nuts and you won't even need tools!)
- The "fence" on the alternator B+ stud guard won't fit anything larger than 4AWG wire. Easy enough to deal with - it's a resin plastic, and will cut easily.
Do not eliminate the guard! However, cutting it to pass the larger cable is a simple matter, as is replacing it with a flat guard. To get the guard off, you'll see another nut under the cable lug - remove it, the guard will pull off. Once you've modified the guard,
make sure you put it back! Tighten the lower nut to finger-tight (use thumb & one fingertip on a 10m/m socket) and then turn an additional 1/3-1/2 turn. Again,
do not eliminate this guard! I've had to go roundy-rounds with people who took it out and wondered why they kept blowing fuses - once I saw that, it was easy to understand - the B+ cable was grounding out on the alternator case, and the fuse was merely doing its job!
- Most of the larger studs are 5/16" or M8-1.25 (effectively the same size, they're often confused,) but the 5/16" rings aren't very common. It's perfectly acceptable to use 3/8" rings on them, use a flat washer if you like (but most people do not.)
Again, my apologies for not answering - I've been having some family (medical) issues for the last few days - me stepdad's been in hospital, and I've been rather a bit worried about him... (Yeah, he's 2500 miles away - but much of my "online" time has been chatting with mum & sis to find out what's going on. Daniel's feeling better now tho - he was actually asking for something to eat to-day!)
