aftermarket battery cables and connectors
- Thread starter dieselenthusiast
- Start date
It took me about 2 hours, but I took my time and was careful about routing. I removed the tape from the factory cables and split loom, removed the old cables and inserted the 5-90 cables into them and re-taped with gaffer's tape. I bent the + connectors to match the factory 90 degree angles at the alternator and power distribution box. I was also very careful to get clean connection for the grounds and removed paint at the firewall and fender ground connections, and coated the bare metal with dielectric compound. The only issue I had was removing the bolt at the - fender connection. It was rusted, but came out with some PB Blaster and a 15mm wrench on the backside nut. This was on a 2000 model.
You could save a lot of time if you just zip-tied the new cables to the split loom, then cut the old cables off where they enter/exit the loom.
You could save a lot of time if you just zip-tied the new cables to the split loom, then cut the old cables off where they enter/exit the loom.
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dieselenthusiast
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Zuni Mountains, New Mexico
I decided to go with 1AWG, part # 2XJ-242-ANL-150(4) - which is the full kit and fuse setup. Eventually, I will upgrade to the Durango/Dakota/WJ/ZJ V8 upgrade (136A) Alternator.
Technical: http://www.kelleyswip.com/electric.html
Pricing: http://www.kelleyswip.com/price.html
I can't say enough good things about 5-90. His knowledge is excellent, his customer service is excellent and his products are excellent. Thanks to everyone who pointed me in his direction.
Technical: http://www.kelleyswip.com/electric.html
Pricing: http://www.kelleyswip.com/price.html
I can't say enough good things about 5-90. His knowledge is excellent, his customer service is excellent and his products are excellent. Thanks to everyone who pointed me in his direction.
Danger Dave
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- N Florida
Xinfinity on 5-90's cables. I went to HF and spent $10 on new split loom when I did mine. The old stuff was so brittle that it fell apart when I pulled the old cable out. It's so much better (and nicer looking) now.
kdailey4315
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Pacifica, CA
This is probably a stupid question. I noticed on the website that 5-90 uses welding wire. Would THHN/THWN work? I work for an electrical contractor and have access to all the material for free but I wanted to make sure.
AZjeepin1
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Glendale, AZ
Jeepers and Creepers have some THICK cables that I run. They're amazing.
http://www.jeepersandcreepers.com/10701.html
http://www.jeepersandcreepers.com/10701.html
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
Isn't THHN/THWN designed for use in a wall, or in EMT/NMT?
The reasons I selected welding cable:
- Designed for relatively high-heat environments
- Very flexible, meant for frequent handling (therefore tolerates vibration well)
- Double-jacketed. THICK jackets
- Resistant to most chemicals found underhood
If you want to try THHN/THWN, go ahead - but I'm not sure how it will work out for you. Also, is it available in the larger sizes? I haven't worked with it in a while, so I'm not sure (but if you can't get it in at least 4AWG, don't bother.)
kdailey4315
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Pacifica, CA
What kind of insulation is on the welding wire? THHN has a temperature rating of 90* C but I'm not sure about chemicals. I have access to 2AWG, 1AWG, 1/0 or 4/0. It isn't double jacketed though.
1985xjlaredo
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Kansas City
Well the welding wire we use at work, (Im a pressure vessel and armor welder) can with stand TONS and I mean Tons of red hot slag raining down on it. We use ArcAir alot if you know what that is then you understand how strong these cable's and jackets
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
THHN and THWN are composed of much thicker strands generally, IIRC. I know that's the insulation spec, but it's usually true anyways... thicker strands will break faster in a high vibration + high flexure application. Also they aren't as abrasion/chemical/temperature/abuse resistant as others already noted.
I would use it for chassis wiring without worrying too much, but not for anything that crosses anything that can flex - ie anything going from chassis to drivetrain.
I would use it for chassis wiring without worrying too much, but not for anything that crosses anything that can flex - ie anything going from chassis to drivetrain.
kdailey4315
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Pacifica, CA
I actually found some battery cable in our shop and its really different than THHN. Much smaller conductors. I can't see regular wiring working. Thanks for the help.
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bimmerjeeper
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- USA
Do I need to go to kellyswhip? What if you don't need "the best money can buy" and you just want basic replacement battery cables b/c of corrosion? I don't off-road and just use the XJ as a basic work commuter. I have no ability or interest in making my own cables. What do I do? Can I just get an autozone cable? I saw the XJ has multiple wires (a 2nd smaller wire) so I can't just use a basic "single" cable. Is my easiest option just to buy an OEM cable set from the dealer for $250? If so, then it seems like kellyswhip is the only option?
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bimmerjeeper
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- USA
Can you explain how the OEM cables are not good enough? They have lasted over 14 years with zero issues. Why does anyone need an upgrade? I run a bone stock XJ. I don't see why I'd need anything more than OEM.
Shogun
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Arizona Territory
I guess I cant argue too well against "I want cheap". Theres cheap stuff because people are willing to pay for it.
I dont want junk, I want stuff that works, is reliable, and gonna last in the long run. If I expected to sell off the jeep in a couple years I wouldnt care. I rely on this thing to work, every time, in some very remote places, with children on board. Granted, a trip to the mall isnt very demanding, but that night on the interstate in a winter storm, or that midday, summer, 120 degree drive across the state is demanding and I dont want to be on the side of the road burning.
The OEM stuff lasted me fine for 20+ years, until I checked it. Its cheap junk, made to minimum standards to save a buck. It doesnt take much to get outside its design envelope. Cold temps, weak battery, old worn starter? I want all the CCA I can get without the cables limiting the current draw or melting. My vehicle cranked noticably better after installing the upgraded cables. Ask that guy on the roadside with his vehicle burning whether he would prefer to drop a few more $ to avoid the campfire.
I think you could get Jon's best stuff for much less than $250, you could also go with a lesser guage cable that would still work better than OEM. Heavier guage wire reduces voltage drop. Good quality insulation protects the wire. OEM is small guage, barely capable of the current draw unless everything is in peak conditions. Weather, mechanical conditions may increase current reqd during starting or with heavy electrical loads (heater, wipers, lights, etc). Cheap insulation will become brittle, crack, allowing corrosion of the wire, further reducing load capability. As loads increase wire temps get high (very high) and further degrade/melt insulation. Compromised insulation also can result in shorting to nearby metal, sparks, fire. Look at terminations on many vehicles and you will see frayed, broken, bent wire hanging out. Poor electrical connection resulting, well, you get the idea. Dont terminate to a battery clamp, rather a lug which bolts to the battery clamp. Hard bends at clamps break the wire internally which also breaks insulation.
Well, enough. I have heard one too many click/click/click when turning the key. No more.
bimmerjeeper
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- USA
I know what you're sayng, and I agree, but the OEM cables have worked for decades in millions of XJ's. You're talking like it's a defective recall. My ROTTED 14 year old cables still work. So, even new OEM cables will be a huge "upgrade" and are plenty good for me. They worked for 14 years, they can work for another 14.
Dont terminate to a battery clamp, rather a lug which bolts to the battery clamp.
I don't understand this statement. The first thing I did with my XJ was to buy a new battery. I pretty much stick to stock OEM so I have battery posts. Was this a mistake?
Dont terminate to a battery clamp, rather a lug which bolts to the battery clamp.
I don't understand this statement. The first thing I did with my XJ was to buy a new battery. I pretty much stick to stock OEM so I have battery posts. Was this a mistake?
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
OEM cables are "good enough" - but for some of us, "good enough" isn't.
I'm one of those people.
I don't have any accountants to answer to, so I am free to use whatever methods and materials I like. I can therefore pick better cable (US-made 100% copper - most OEMs use Chinese copper-clad alumium
double insulated jacket (better safety margin,) neoprene outer jacket instead of vinyl (lasts longer without cracking or chipping, still plenty resistant to petroleum.)I can use a heavier copper ring lug, which will take a better crimp and causes a lower voltage drop (any electrical connection will cause voltage drop, as will any change in conductor cross-section. The heavier lug has a greater cross-sectional area than the thin lugs found on OEM cables and typical aftermarket cables.) Also, I will fully seal the connection - it's encapsulated with adhesive-lined double-wall heat shrink, fully covering the crimp to prevent intrusion of contaminants or corrosive influence. OEMs and "cheap-O" aftermarket won't even use anything at all. (You'll note that most of the cables with the battery post clamp attached merely have the clamp cast around the cable. This still leaves an entree for corrosive vapours, and with the wire corroding under the jacket, you may have a problem you can't spot easily.) That, and I'm not sure what material the aftermarket cables use, I'm reasonably sure that the OEMs are at least tinned copper (just with an open, unsealed crimp.) I know that my terminals are pure copper, because I look for them.
Bear in mind that just about anything you get that is OEM has good engineering decisions overridden by accountants - that's how we ended up with Torx-head fasteners, that's how they ended up using SAE8 screws on the exhaust manifold (not the best choice - even SAE5 works out to be better, in the long term! Brass or bronze would be best,) and why they use typical carbon steel on undercar exhaust (water off the road plus exhaust head is murderously corrosive, which is why it's such a pain to break that stuff loose - and why I replace it with brass when I'm doing the job.) That's why axle covers aren't fitted with drain plugs to make the job easier. That's why the drains for the engine coolant always end up hidden somewhere (inside the front end sheetmetal on the radiator, or behind the exhaust manifold on the engine block.)
A lot of OEM stuff is a matter of compromise, in order to make the beancounters happy. If I did have any beancounters on staff (I'm a one-man band, so I answer to me...) I'd have a similar relationship to them that Mickey Thompson had with his - "You are the beancounter, I am the engineer. Your job is to keep track of my beans, not tell me what to do with them!"
But, I'm getting close to advertising. If you have any more specific questions you'd like answered, please feel free to hit me backchannel and I'll do what I can! For many people, "good enough" is just fine.
For some people, "good enough" isn't.
For people like me - I've had to deal with failures of critical gear. That's not going to happen on my watch!
bimmerjeeper
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- USA
It looks like I can get Jon's stuff for $80. This is cheaper than OEM, but more expensive than $10 Autozone cables. But, I will just get Jon's since they are pre-fit to the XJ. For example, the OEM (+) cable has a 2nd thin wire that needs to be connected somewhere. Generic cables will not have this, which leaves the only options as 1) build yourself if you're an electrical expert 2) Jon's cables 3) OEM for $250.
lazyxj
NAXJA Member #1310
- Location
- Los Angeles
I make my own cables and can tell you that Jon isn't getting rich selling them, it's a deal. Cable and lugs are expensive.
Most of the wiring on XJs is inadequately sized. There is too much voltage drop on many circuits. I found a voltage drop of 1.5 volts on the head light circuits.
After adding new, heavy wiring and relays, even the stock headlights look better and it allows the use of higher wattage bulbs.
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
That second wire feeds the PDC for primary vehicle distrubution. Most aftermarket cables that have "tap" leads off of the positive run ~10AWG - which isn't enough for modern vehicles with electronic controls (especially if you've added a lot of electrical load, fed through the PDC!)
And lazyxj is right - I'm not getting rich doing this. I'm not trying to, really. I just want to provide something that is better than most other options out there (I hope...) for a fair price. The fact that I've got OEM beat all hollow isn't a surprise to me, considering some of the things I've seen them do (ex: a power steering pump cap for an early Viper ran $125 or so at the dealer. For the exact same Metric Saginaw pump that was on my 87XJ!)
