A Humboldt-Cherokee Blog.

[srmitchell]

So the teflon tape did help, but its too soft, so after a few miles it's right back to how it was.

I may jb weld the yoke on there. I can always cut it off later.

The real plan is to get a Heavy duty sye kit, (suggestions?) and while Im at it, I might do a 2 low kit to help with trail turning radius. (The front locker can be a pain.)

Im back up to school, and the jeep is just sitting, because I take the bus. Oh, and I talked to my old boss at kragen, and she said she is going to re hire me.

 

[Letterman]

A Atlas II transfer case is a nice heavy duty SYE kit!

After all the money you spend to up grade your 231, heavy duty chain, 32 spline output shaft, 4 to 1, etc. etc. etc. in the end you will still be on a chain and will have spent 75% of what an Atlas costs.

 

[srmitchell]

I would love to have a 3 speed with 2 low range gears. 4-1, and 2.72-1.

 

[srmitchell]

I never actually posted how my rear bumper works. (Copied from my build on jeep forum)

The rear bumper is a c4x4.

The hitch I have only used the factory 4 bolts, but there is another one 4.5 inches behind the last one. Therefore, we welded angle steel to the hitch, which thus extended it back to 5 bolts on each side. We used angle because flat bar is garbage. Remember, shape is strength.

We then welded 2- 1/4 inch steel tabs on the back of the bumper. These hang down, and bolt to the FRONT of the hitch. And then, just to be over kill, we welded a 1/4 inch tab to the top of the hitch. This bolts to the center, BACKSIDE, of the bumper.
Outside tabs, back of bumper, front of hitch.

Top of the hitch, backside of the bumper, (right below the hatch striker.)

Rear shot.

Now, the bumper is totally tie-d into the hitch, but it unbolts, so I don't have a monster hitch/bumper behemoth to pick up, and bolt on. It's pretty trick, and cost us nothing, just scrap steel.

We also beefed the tire mount, with some rectangular tube, and machined plate to space the tire out.

 

[srmitchell]

This blog has been quiet... Hmmm... more pictures.

I trimmed my fenders a bit today, and remounted the back flare just 1/4-1/2 an inch higher. It looks a lot higher, and I've got a ton of clearance.

In other news, I need to bumpstop the front more, because my track bar frame mount is hitting my tie rod on big bumps. FAIL. The gofer it flip is the problem.

 

[rocknxj]

I'll never understand how people can keep their rear shock mounts round and in good condition. I bashed mine the first time out at the mall.

 

[srmitchell]

Lol you think I wheel this thing?

 

[rocknxj]

I wouldn't. It's too purty.

 

[srmitchell]

Haha you're one to talk mr frog blog!

 

[srmitchell]

Today, I decided to finally attempt to fix the vibration again. I've just been dealing with it, but it's still very bad after 60 mph.
I have-
Shimmed the axle to 4degrees. (Too high)
Removed the shims, added shackles. (Too low)
Machined the shims down to about 2 degrees, and its vibrating the least amount of all. (Good)
Went to hollister, bashed my rear driveline, swapped a new one, still bad.

I went under and realized that there is play in the hack n tap. I tried putting a bunch of teflon tape in the splines to tighten it up, and it DID help, but faded and got bad again after about 2 miles.

So, final resort it to just fuse it on. Once I get money, I will just hack it off, and go for an AA sye kit with a new TW shaft.

So, I went crazy with the jbweld, and so far it's setting great. I bolted the yoke back on of course, but the greatest thing is that there should be no more play. We'll see. This is just a temporary fix before I get some $$$.

 

[srmitchell]

Weekend update-

Im in the bay this weekend, so I used this as an opportunity to fully let the jbweld do it's thing. It hasn't been used in 5 days. I'll slap the rear driveline back on on monday.

In other news, I have some nitro shocks from rough country sitting in my garage that came off my dad's wj. They werent used long cause they are the wrong size. However, they are the perfect size for the front of my rig. I need to get stem adapters, and barpin eliminators, and I might try them out. My OME's seem to be wearing out and fading.

 

[NoCoastFocus]

Let us know how it turns out. I still can't believe all the trouble you've had with the hackntap.

 

[srmitchell]

I will.

Yeah, its a bummer. Id love to drive it comfortably again.

 

[jimbosz07]

Those Nitros are VERY stiff. That's actually what I run and it's pretty bumpy

Are you in the bay this coming weekend or did you just leave?

 

[srmitchell]

I just left.

I could use stiffer shocks. Remember, I have long arms, so the ome's are getting a work out. They seem too soft out in the dunes. I might just try it cause they're free.

I tested the jb weld job. The vibe is WAY better, but it still kicks in at 65 mph. 75 is unbearable. So tired of this.

Looks like I will be buying an AA sye kit soon.

 

[rocknxj]

I'm happy with my AA SYE kit. Seemed to be a very high quality product and it was not too difficult to install once I bought the correct lock ring pliers. Made three trips to stores looking for them, and finally found a cheap pair at Sears. Proper tools make all the difference in the world.

 

[rocknxj]

Sean, have you purchased a SYE kit yet? I have a 50% off certificate for anything at superlift and you can have this kit for half off. http://www.superlift.com/accessories/slip-yoke-eliminator.asp

Let me know and I'll send you the certificate.

 

[srmitchell]

I havent!

Is that a good kit? Theres no price listed.

 

[rocknxj]

You could always do another hack n tap. I can give you my old output shaft...

 

[srmitchell]

I have one too. But if Im splitting the case, I should just do an HD sye.

Do you know how much that Superlift kit goes for?