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A Humboldt-Cherokee Blog.

Even if it's not that much, rotational mass does make a big difference.

I wouldn't be doing it for weight alone, it's for more traction. The fact that they're lighter is great though.

I really want some kevlars, but all the 16's are load e. Boo.
 
You never seemed to have any trouble on the trails I have been on with you. Do you really need the extra traction? What other trails do you plan to run?

Your rig looks great, I am just wondering if the $$ would be better spent elsewhere?
 
Rotational and unsprung weight are major enemies of performance, handling, and ride. Might be worth seeing if you can borrow someone elses similar wheels and tires for a test drive on your Jeep to see what you think.
 
Josh-
I agree with you. It does great. However the biggest issue is the lack of sidewall tread. It really doesnt do well when in loose dirt or mud.
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In this case, it was in a v-gulch, the right tires slipped right off the edge. It really sucked, and I would have demolished the whole side if it wasn't for the sliders. Sidewall tread like the maxxis tires have would have helped.
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-More composed over bumps
-Less body creaking
-More body roll.
-It also feels like the suspension is softer. I have a spare set of leaf packs, so I'll add a leaf, and maybe get some new shocks.

If you do consider selling your OME shocks, let me know...I want to try and soften up the front of mine. Others don't seem to have an issue with the OME 934 coils (ZJ fronts), but they are a bit stiff for me (no heavy bumper or winch) with the Bilstein 5100's. I'm not sure if going to a lighter spring (~150lb/in instead of the ~180lb/in) or swapping to softer shocks is the answer. The shocks seem like the right choice since they are easier to bolt in and out. :looser:
 
Sure man. They're yours. IDK what's a fair price, but I'm not hoping for much.

I might buy a set of the new OME sport's.
 
I painted the cage, and got the whole thing in.

I'm less than impressed. The front bar is crushing the dash making it squeak and groan. The b hoop makes a ton of noise on the overhead console.

Not sure what to do.
 
I painted the cage, and got the whole thing in.

I'm less than impressed. The front bar is crushing the dash making it squeak and groan. The b hoop makes a ton of noise on the overhead console.

Not sure what to do.

quit whining, at lease it does not vibrate! :laugh3:

j/k :heart:
 
Looks nice! That sucks about the squeaking. Any way to slip a little bit of felt in between the contact points? It wouldn't last forever, but that seems to be the factory's approach to keeping trim panels quiet. As for a permanent fix, I'd say try to raise the dash hoop a bit (maybe a spacer under the mounting foot?) to eliminate the contact with the dash, but that would probably just cause another problem elsewhere. Would it be possible to grind down those clamps a bit to help relieve some of the contact on the dash? You could always notch the dash panel and OHC, but that would look kind of fugly and I know that's not your style. Looks like that B hoop just wasn't designed for an XJ with an OHC...
 
I like the felt idea or perhaps thin UHMW plastic epoxied or even Velcro-ed to the contact points? The UHMV fix might even work permanently.
 
Well, the issue is not the cage contacting the plastic. That's not squeaking.

The problem is that the cage is pressuring the forward top piece (the one that is cut out for the vin# and defroster.) This pressure is causing internal friction in the dash, and it creaks over bumps. Th e best option might just be raising it 1/4 inch.

In fact, when you accelerate hard, the dash makes a sound. haha.

I washed it and waxed it yesterday. I also touched up the rims.
These are just iphone pics, my normal camera has no batteries.
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What's the latest on your dv/slick rock run? I would love to try to make it if it's still on your calendar.
 
I'm shooting for somewhere between July 15-29 I guess.

I also want to go to Hollister in the next few weeks. I gotta wheel man!
 
In my quest for manual transmission control, I've been considering the Montana Fab unit, which is now nearly plug and play. However it's a rotary switch (not very slick) and it's a steep 150 bucks for control of only 1-2 gears. No check engine light however.

I started looking at the RADesigns rail shifter, and I think I'm sold.

From R.DesJardin-
"If you use a switch you can have either manual or automatic mode.
You can use the Rail in with the floor shifter in any position, although not all thegears are available. In OD you get 1-4, in D you get 1-3, in 1/2 you get 1-2.
Remember it's an electro/mechanical transmission.
I have a seperate lock up switch for the TC, this allows me to use it as needed.
Engine braking is similiar to stock, the shifter does not change engine braking, unless you run the floor shifter in a gear to correspond with the gears you are in with the Rail.
For instance with the floor shifter:
in 1/2 you get engine braking in 1st and 2nd.
in 3 you get engine braking in 2nd and 3rd.
in OD you get engine braking in 3rd and 4th.
Several customers have bought code readers from discount auto part store to reset their computers before inspections."

It seems really slick, I can choose OD, and I can switch it to stock. Only $80.
 
if you do get a rail shifter, post up pic's, multi angle and all that. I wish the RADesigns site had slightly more pictures of the finished product and some better dimensions/drawings.

But that said, I really want to get one soon (whenever I have extra cash from baby/bike stuff).
I can't decide between the baja shifter or the rail shifter however.
 
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