87 Renix XJ No fuel, No brake lights, cranks fine

[Ecomike]

OK, I got some help today and we hot wired the fuel pump, with 12.3 Volts delivered directly to the fuel pump and we hear a click, and then nothing, no fuel flow.
Pull the power and we hear another click, both sounds from the fuel pump. But there is motor/pump running sound and the fuel rail is still bone dry.

So I need to order a new fuel pump and assembly (what are the latest best options folks?).
Replacing what I suspect is the 1987, 290,xxx Miles OEM. Also I think the tank is full.
So do you all have any recommendations for draining some of the fuel?

Thanks.

 

[cruiser54]

The only way to remove the fuel is with another electric pump hooked up to the outlet and using it to fill some 5 gallon buckets. Hopefully one bucket will be enough. Be careful with sparks and gasoline.

 

[cruiser54]

Now is a good time to send someone to look for that tool I made!!!!

 

[Ecomike]

Now is a good time to send someone to look for that tool I made!!!!

Your volunteering to Cruise by here and help?

 

[cruiser54]

Nah. It's bright orange though. If I didn't have to purchase a premium membership on to post pics I could show you.

 

[Bent]

Let it go, Tim.

 

[cruiser54]

Who is Tim?

 

[Anak]

Tim is Bent.

Trying not to feed the wrong wolf I bet.

 

[Ecomike]

I found a post of mine from 2010 (I hard forgotten about it), https://naxja.org/threads/87-90-fuel-pumps-renix.1048534/
where I fixed this problem at the face plate of the fuel pump assy and the quick connector 14 years ago on the 87 Wagoneer (I don't even recall doing it) just 2 years later on my daughters 89 I had the CLUE (I do recall that one, it happened at night in the packing lot..) LOL.
Looks like I may finally have some help soon.

That said, if the fuel pump in the tank needs to go, be replaced, I need to suck fuel out of the tank through the in tank pump, check valve and filter first, because it is full, too full.... to remove the in tank pump assy.
So that takes an external fuel pump (Cruser54 is right). Thinking why not just install an external fuel pump and
go with that...
Any one ever done that as a permanent Renix fix? Did it last?

 

[Ecomike]

What is the fuel hose ID at the fuel pump side and the steel line on the 1987-1990 Renix jeeps?

 

[Bent]

What is the fuel hose ID at the fuel pump side and the steel line on the 1987-1990 Renix jeeps?

5/16

 

[Ecomike]

5/16

Turns out the factory flange fuel pump outlet, 87-90 Renix is 3/8" and the return line tube is 5/16"
Also the fuel filter is 3/8" inlet, and 5/16" outlet that feeds the tubing line the fuel rail/injectors and FPR at the engine. The fuel tank is full, and Cruiser says the only way to drain it for removal, is an external fuel pump. So going to just install and external, and see if it works for a while...

 

[Bent]

In the engine compartment, and frame rail lines, both feed and return, I used:

6AN Male to 5/16" Hardline Compression Fitting​

:dunno:
For draining the tank I use a squeeze bulb siphon tube. Clear tubing wants to coil so I insert a piece of 16ga copper wire, inside of the tubing that I insert into the tank. Use a small slender screwdriver to hold the flap open at the filler when you remove the tubing.

 

[Ecomike]

My 89 will run the fuel pump when these terminals in yellow are jumped.

OK, I am installing an external inline fuel pump in the morning (help is coming), but the used Ebay fuel pump assy I have as a guide has 3 wires,
and the third wire is a welded/soldered ground to the outer flange
and the other two go through the flange assy, one being 12 V+ Red
the other being a black return from the float level gauge.
The seem to have powered the level sensor from the ground side of the fuel pump, which seems odd as hell.

Any ideas why????

 

[Ecomike]

Fuel pump was toast, and tank was nearly empty (level gauge was stuck saying full, and lying) . Replaced it with an entirely new assy, top brand and the fuel rail FPR is replaced as well (It was leaking a wee bit at the vacuum line).

Got her running again. Nice and smooth

Now I am down to the brake lights, turn lights, and engine coolant dash gauge not working,
and trying to decide if I have a leaky new fuel pressure regulator at the return line seal or a leaky fuel pressure gauge & hose assy.
Fuel pressure drops to zero in 24 hours (engine off). Not sure if that is normal???

Got it to 39 psi, once the the engine was running, and holds 39 PSI at a very smooth idle, no gas smell in the exhaust (32 psi primed and held with the slow cranking battery early on), and battery juiced up (Battery was sulfated, may need replacing). Holds 32 PSI for a few hours, engine off...

Purrrs like a loud sewing machine, sounds awesome for 294K miles. Its Alive!!!

 

[Bent]

Purrrs like a loud sewing machine, sounds awesome for 294K miles. Its Alive!!!

Once you get it broken in it will quit making that sewing machine sound. Be patient.

 

[Ecomike]

The question now is why are there are no turn signals flashing (and I think the brake lights are out also).
Are the rear bulbs different from the running lights and flasher lights on the rear, which do work?

 

[Bent]

The question now is why are there are no turn signals flashing (and I think the brake lights are out also).
Are the rear bulbs different from the running lights and flasher lights on the rear, which do work?

The only renix I have for comparison is my MJ. I would think AMC used the same harness components for the lights; albeit extended.

ETA: The lenses are also two reds and a reverse. When I find a pedal pusher I will check.

 

[Ecomike]

I have brake lights and turn signal lights now. Custom 30 amp dash switch I installed 15 years ago to bypass the P*ss Poor ignition switch, just needed some self cleaning exercise to make good electrical contact after 2 years of non use.

 

[Ecomike]

She purrs like a kitten now. A/C works, starts right up, and I got her past the last inspection. Now onto to the rust and leak repairs, leaks at the windshield roof area.