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98 xj , crank, no start. No fuel with key , fuel with jump.

ruxohsxj

NAXJA Forum User
98 xj drove fine 2 days ago no sputters stalls or misfires. Went to crank yesterday and couldn't get it to turn over. Sounded a bit dry so I checked fuel rail and realized I had no pressure at crank. Jumped the pump and I get 50psi and good flow. Psi drops to 0-5psi within a minute of two of powering down the pump.. closed fuel line off at charcoal filter and still had pressure drop off. Checked for leaking/stuck open injectors all seem to be functional. Plugs didn't seem wet or dirty. If i prime the rail by jumping it or spray starter fluid engine has no problems turning over.



what's my next move?
 
Faulty fuel pump check valve?


When a 1997+ XJ Cherokee won’t start on the first try day after day, the first thing to suspect is a failed check valve on the fuel pump. The fuel pump check valve is supposed to hold pressure in the fuel line while the engine is off. The check valve is located on the fuel pump and located inside the gas tank. A failed check valve allows the fuel to drain back to the tank. This results in one or more of the following symptoms:

SYMPTOMS

• Longer than normal cranking times
• Never starts on first try, almost always starts on the second try
• Rough idle for a few moments of idling
• Rough running for first ½ block of driving
• Little or no fuel pressure at the fuel rail test valve similar to this -

1- Key in on position; fuel pump primes for 2 seconds then stops. 0 PSI
2- Cranking over the engine. 2-3 PSI
3- Engine starts and idles for 20 seconds. < 5 PSI
4- Engine idles and fuel pressure creeps up to 45-50 PSI.

POSSIBLE CAUSES

• Failed check valve on the fuel pump in the gas tank.
• Leaky fuel injector(s) may be the true cause of your problem, but more likely they are simply contributing to the check valve issue.

Testing of the fuel injectors should show if any are faulty and are allowing fuel to drain into the cylinder. Either problem can allow heat soak to vaporize the remaining fuel in the fuel rail, and you may be dealing with a bit of vapor lock as well, especially in warmer weather.

1. Connect the gauge at the fuel rail and start the engine. The gage should read 49 psi plus or minus 5 psi.
2. Turn the engine off and immediately clamp the rubber fuel line ( if equipped ). Watch the pressure gauge and see how long it takes to loose pressure.

If the pressure remains above 30 psi for an extended period of time then the problem is in the tank - probably the check valve. If the pressure falls below 49 psi fairly rapidly then the problem is probably one or more leaky injectors.

There are a few solutions to the problem –

1. Turn the key to ON for 5 seconds and let the fuel pump prime. Turn the key to OFF, turn the key back to ON for 5 seconds, start the engine.
2. Crank the engine for 3-5 seconds, pause, and crank the engine again. It will almost always start on the second try.
3. Replace the fuel pump assembly in the gas tank. The check valve is not a separate part and cannot be serviced. This is both expensive and time consuming because you have to remove any hitches and skid plates and then remove the gas tank from the vehicle.

You can use solutions 1 or 2 for as long as you want to, they do not harm anything and the fuel pump will continue to function for many more years.


If you do replace the fuel pump assembly, purchase a high quality OEM style pump assembly such as Bosch or Carter. Some cheap aftermarket fuel pump assemblies, like Airtex, generic Auto Parts store brands, and Precision don’t hold up and will fail completely within 12-18 months.
 
Update,

After a fuel pressure test I was having fuel drop off to near 0psi within a few seconds. Bad check valve Replaced fuel pump. Still crank no start.

Inspecting the engine harness I did find a few exposed wires and realized how horribly the previous owner hacked up the harness. Replaced the harness with one from a friend
Still crank no start

New injectors (fixing hack job on old harness)
New CKP didn't fix it either.
All relays have been swapped with new
Have pulled and checked every fuse in pcm and junction

I'm starting to lean towards a dead PCM
going to check 5v reference wires as well but just chasing my tail here it feels .
 
Update 2: Solved!
After checking 5v reference to no success I decided to check all the wires under the PDC. The ground wire for the fuel pump relay had backed out of the pin by just enough that the relay no longer made contact but when a wire was used to jump the terminal it was able to make contact.. pressed the wire back in and heard a solid click of the pin.
Put it back together and it it started right away!
 
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