87 Comanche RENIX Vacuum NIGHTMARE!!!

[GSequoia]

To start with I did not read this thread....


The vacuum lines are available at Kragen and the like Jim. Alternatively you might want to brew your own lines (going to the right palces, of course) since you're going to be treating it rough. If you need help let me know, I know the vacuum mapping of the Renix system very well, hell if you run into a complete brick wall you can always drive it out here

PS - The emissions sticker should have a basic vacuum map, if you follow that you'll pass smog.

 

[crazyjim]

To start with I did not read this thread....


The vacuum lines are available at Kragen and the like Jim. Alternatively you might want to brew your own lines (going to the right palces, of course) since you're going to be treating it rough. If you need help let me know, I know the vacuum mapping of the Renix system very well, hell if you run into a complete brick wall you can always drive it out here

PS - The emissions sticker should have a basic vacuum map, if you follow that you'll pass smog.

Thanks G, I'm going to try to route them all with soft lines, get rid of all the broken BS. That's my exact reasoning for wanting to do it, because of how hard I'm going to be on it, I don't want any more lines breaking. Also anytime I work on it, I don't want to have to remove the hardlines to get to stuff. I'll let you know on the driving out there thing, maybe I'll bring your doors haha.

 

[crazyjim]

Ok new problem, what is this and can I get it at Kragen/napa etc? Also, it has two lines coming out, but looks like only the top line was connected, and I don't see the bottom line on the diagram, does that mean one is a breather? It goes into the Throttle Body.

 

[joe_peters]

One is plug, the other a line that runs to the MAP sensor on the firewall.

 

[GrimmJeeper]

why not just ask me jim? lol.

the hose from the ccv in the front of the valve cover is what hooks up to the big taped off hole on the back of the airbox. i couldnt find anyone who had a new rubber elbow that would hold up to the oil fumes without falling apart, so i taped it off. not sure what the broken off hose is, that whole assembly was brand new 2 weeks before i gave you the truck and i'd bet that is where your whistle is coming from. the smaller line that is taped off was plugged on the old assembly i took off, so i have no idea where that one goes to, and xjtrailrider is correct, that loose plug is for an aw4 hookup.

hope this helps some. i emailed you the FSM for the truck the night we were over at Andy's place, all the vacuum info is in there. PM me if you need me to send it again it's still in my sent mail.

 

[Hellbent]

i really can't believe that they would fail you simply for not having the stock plastic hardlines. as long as vacuum goes where it's supposed to, and it's all routed in a stock manner, i would think it shouldn't matter. no different than replacing an old broken plastic line with a piece of vacuum hose; never even had a smog place look twice at that. i'll be smogging my emissions-rerouted renix mj within the next week or so, so we'll see what happens.

 

[GSequoia]

i really can't believe that they would fail you simply for not having the stock plastic hardlines. as long as vacuum goes where it's supposed to, and it's all routed in a stock manner, i would think it shouldn't matter. no different than replacing an old broken plastic line with a piece of vacuum hose; never even had a smog place look twice at that. i'll be smogging my emissions-rerouted renix mj within the next week or so, so we'll see what happens.

You'll be fine running your own lines as long as they go where they're supposed to. If the inspector give syou trouble tell him to stuff it and show him that the lines you made match the diagrams in his book and on the vehicle, I've never had trouble running non-OEM lines with gettign smogs.

 

[GrimmJeeper]

Old man is correct, that goes to the map sensor the other line is not drilled out in the throttle body which is why there is no line going to it.

:doh: started answering on page 1 without reading the rest of the pages

 

[joe_peters]

why not just ask me jim? lol.

the hose from the ccv in the front of the valve cover is what hooks up to the big taped off hole on the back of the airbox. i couldnt find anyone who had a new rubber elbow that would hold up to the oil fumes without falling apart, so i taped it off. not sure what the broken off hose is, that whole assembly was brand new 2 weeks before i gave you the truck and i'd bet that is where your whistle is coming from. the smaller line that is taped off was plugged on the old assembly i took off, so i have no idea where that one goes to, and xjtrailrider is correct, that loose plug is for an aw4 hookup.

hope this helps some. i emailed you the FSM for the truck the night we were over at Andy's place, all the vacuum info is in there. PM me if you need me to send it again it's still in my sent mail.

YOU are responsible for this!?! I am so disappointed.

 

[GrimmJeeper]

haha you should have seen it before I got it, the rubber elbow on the front of the valve cover was gone and there was a paper towel shoved in there, and the only vacuum lines on the manifold were going to the egr and the map sensor, everything else was missing when i got it.

 

[xjtrailrider]

You'll be fine running your own lines as long as they go where they're supposed to. If the inspector give syou trouble tell him to stuff it and show him that the lines you made match the diagrams in his book and on the vehicle, I've never had trouble running non-OEM lines with gettign smogs.

This is exactly what i did with mine minus the thermactor/bi metal temp sensor. Going back to my original post, rip it out and start over. The plastic lines will always be trouble, the fuel line i used will last a long time.

 

[5-90]

Only one way to find out--do it and try.

Possible problems:

1. The inspector you get KNOWS Cherokees--most likely FAIL on visual.

2. The inspector you get checks the BOOK--most likely FAIL on visual.

3. The inspector you get is a really easy going, friendly kind of guy--might PASS on visual.

You forgot (4) - The inspector is willing to trace everything out, see that you did it right. PASS.

But, while I understand the idea of the Smog Check Programme in concept (and it has helped,) it is the execution that is amiss.

Who cares how I make the numbers, just so I make them? Get out of my way, and I can strip most of this crap and qualify as an LEV - if not a ULEV - once I get some retuning done!

 

[xjtrailrider]

Who cares how I make the numbers, just so I make them? Get out of my way, and I can strip most of this crap and qualify as an LEV - if not a ULEV - once I get some retuning done!

X a billion 5-90, who cares as long as the sniffer says its clean. I can understand them being anal about the EGR, charcoal canister and cat, but not using the stock lines...cmon man! I am all about having emissions hooked up and working but who gives a rats a$$ what kind of vacuum lines are used and how they are routed, as long as it works.

I'm so glad I live on the right coast and in a laid back state.

 

[Hellbent]

because, like most things, it's not actually about bettering anything other than someonesomewhere's fat wallet. california is FULL of that kind of nonsense.

 

[Jeff in VA]

I did the same thing as xjtrailrider, except I deleted the EGR entirely. The only vaccuum you need to make the Renix run is MAP, fuel pressure regulator, CCV, and brake booster (and the line off the manifold to the vaccuum resivoir if you want your HVAC to work......you'll notice I relocated my resivoir to where the washer fluid resivoir used to be.....and moved that over above the HVAC fan because I installed a dual diapragm booster....there's lots of stuff on my engine that isn't where it's "supposed" to be )

Jeff

 

[Hellbent]

better shot of what you did for that coolant recovery tank? (apologize for the hijack)

 

[Jeff in VA]

my MJ used to be a 2.5, I swapped a 4.0 in a year or so ago. Since the 2.5 was an open system already I just reused the stock overflow. It lives between the airbox and the driverside fender (which is mostly why I deleted the EGR setup, the solenoid bolts in right there and I didn't feel like extending the wiring and vaccuum lines to relocate it). Also deleted the fuel pump ballast resistor too.

Jeff

 

[Hellbent]

interesting. didn't know that about the 4 cyl. maybe can fit a smaller one there(converted to open system as well).

 

[Wallyman]

because, like most things, it's not actually about bettering anything other than someonesomewhere's fat wallet. california is FULL of that kind of nonsense.

Especially since the state is BROKE.... and looking for any kind of income they can get. The more i read about smog nightmares the more im glad i live in North Texas. Heck in Oklahoma there arent even safety inspections anymore. Of course theres a lot more JUNK driving around up there.

 

[GSequoia]

I did the same thing as xjtrailrider, except I deleted the EGR entirely.

No workie here, delete anything and you'll fail the visual check before they even hook you up. I've gotten away with not having hte "pre-heat" tube from the exhaust manifold for the past ten years or so but I know that technically they can ding me for that.

Jim - IF you can get ahold of an old XJ Armor open air intake (provided you're planning on running a cone normally) it is CARB approved and you will pass smog with it. One day I'd like to get one (Not sure the company still exists) to base a cold air intake off of. If you do that you can delete the bimetal crap in the airbox and the pre-heat tube and still have a happy smog man (after you point out the CARB sticker and get him to accept it).