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4.6L Stroker, Help me build it please!

Forgot to ask. Rod bolts? How much can they be stretched before they are bad? Or should I just get some new hesco rod bolts?
 
Frank Z said:
Use ARP Rod Bolts. Check out their website, lot's of really good info on fastener stretch.
Click to expand...

I would 2nt the ARP Rod Bolts. Just Cheep Insurance!!!!

Flash


EDIT: I would have the big end of the rod resized after the ARP'S are installed...........Just to make sure that is perfectly round after the bolts are installed.
 
well im having the rods reconiditioned aswell but everything is done but the crank rods and pistons because i havent recieved the pistons yet since they are on backorder.

I guess ill get arp.
 
Bad News: The chevy 350 springs I have arent going to work because they dont have a wide base. The person doing the machine work says no one in our small city has anything to machine the spring seats to the proper size. So this is probally going to put me back a week but the machinist said he'll call some people he knows about doing a trade.

Good News: ARP Rod Bolts are on their way aswell as ARP Head Studs. Sorry but coudnt find any main studs but my main bolts are brand new so I have no fear there.
 
Next week, thursday my damn engine will be ready to assemble. I know what youre saying its about god damn time. 8 months and little under $2500 i gained .7 litres and hopfully 100HP.

Ill post pictures up next week when I have it back up on the stand.
 
once its all together, would you write up a parts list with prices and machine shop prices?
 
Well I got my engine back today. Paid all cash so I got a little bit of a discount aswell. Total for parts labor etc is $939.74. With that added into my costs Im officially ~54ish over budget. Well I started to check things the second I got it back. All Ive checked so far is piston ring gap which is in spec and deck height which seems off by alot. As in more deck then stock? Thats all all Ive checked I need to get a valve spring pressure reader since Ive got larger base SBC valve springs now instead of my old narrow base.

Other then the deck it looks hawt.

Questions:
I measured the deck from the block deck to the oil pan deck and it measured 9 9/16in. Which if you divide the fraction is 9.562 and stock I believe is 9.453. Am I measuring correctly. I used a square.

Since my block deck doesnt looked touched at all the deck on the head had .010in removed. Do I just subtract that from my block deck height and then I can plug that into my andreas calc or is there some special calculation to use.

CCs? Im going to purchase a mL tall beacker tomorrow to measure my piston dish volume andcombustion chamber volume. Is alcohol a good liquid to use to mearuse with or is there a cheap alternative liquid I could use to get a acuarate measurment?

My main consern right now is my deck height and piston dish volume since if they are stock my compression ratio will be to high. Well I just plugged the stock measurments in and not accounting for the head deck removal I get a CR of 9.74:1 and my quench is in the red at 0.021? Thats also assuming that silvolite pistons has a dish volume of 13cc. Also another consern is interference. But I should be able to fix valve slap once I get it assembled and can install push rods of the right length.
 
XJoshua said:
Well I got my engine back today. Paid all cash so I got a little bit of a discount aswell. Total for parts labor etc is $939.74. With that added into my costs Im officially ~54ish over budget. Well I started to check things the second I got it back. All Ive checked so far is piston ring gap which is in spec and deck height which seems off by alot. As in more deck then stock? Thats all all Ive checked I need to get a valve spring pressure reader since Ive got larger base SBC valve springs now instead of my old narrow base.

Other then the deck it looks hawt.

Questions:
I measured the deck from the block deck to the oil pan deck and it measured 9 9/16in. Which if you divide the fraction is 9.562 and stock I believe is 9.453. Am I measuring correctly. I used a square.

Since my block deck doesnt looked touched at all the deck on the head had .010in removed. Do I just subtract that from my block deck height and then I can plug that into my andreas calc or is there some special calculation to use.

CCs? Im going to purchase a mL tall beacker tomorrow to measure my piston dish volume andcombustion chamber volume.
My main consern right now is my deck height and piston dish volume since if they are stock my compression ratio will be to high. Well I just plugged the stock measurments in and not accounting for the head deck removal I get a CR of 9.74:1 and my quench is in the red at 0.021? Thats also assuming that silvolite pistons has a dish volume of 13cc. Also another consern is interference. But I should be able to fix valve slap once I get it assembled and can install push rods of the right length.
Click to expand...



I just us water, You just need to dry and wipe every thing with oil a immediately after you do your tests
put the piston in with out the rings, and add a thin layer of grease to seal the piston to the cylinder wall.

Plexi glass work grate for CC the cylinder head, with a thin layer of grease there to seal it.

Flash
 
Well my andreasstrokercalc went fubar so can someone plug in these specs and post their finding.

Head Volume: 56cc
Bored Over: 0.060"
Stroker of Crank: 3.895"
Decking Block: 0.0"
Plaining Head: 0.010"
Custom Piston: 12.2cc
Rod Length: 5.875"
Piston Height: 1.581

Im interested on the specs for the 0.045" headgasket. Also can you fiddle around with the piston cc until my CR is close to 9.5:1.

Now in another post someone mentions static and dynamic compression ratio? Does that mean if the calc shows a guess of 9.8:1 would my actual compression once valves are clossed be less/more around 9.5:1?

Also the valves would close and open way before the piston reaches TDC right? Im very concerned about valve slap right now and dont have enough parts to do the playdoh test.

Thanks for the quick response. Im axieous to get it together and somewhat afraid that i might have had it machined wrong. So the help and suggestions are greatly welcomed.
 
With your specs above, I'm getting a 10.08:1 CR. A piston dish volume of 18.1ccs would give you your desired 9.5:1 CR. Quench is .0945 if you're interested. I can't help you with static vs. dynamic CR, sorry.
 
Are there any free engine software out there? I remember using something from dr. dino's website and it worked great (for acceleration) but it had some issues. And are there any that can tell you a dynamic compression ratio if you specify the cam?
 
BBeach said:
Are there any free engine software out there? I remember using something from dr. dino's website and it worked great (for acceleration) but it had some issues. And are there any that can tell you a dynamic compression ratio if you specify the cam?
Click to expand...


Go here
http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html

then go allmost to the bottom of the page until you find this



DCR Calculator with VB6 Runtime files 1.55 MB
DCR Calculator without VB6 Runtime files 423 KB
*A note to users outside the United States.* The DCR Calculator was written with the Regional Setting of Windows set to the "English (United States)" setting.


After you down load and install, ... I just keep mine on my Desk top so its ease to use.(Me and computer don't get along the best:confused1 :laugh:

And here is another one that you can use on the INTERNET!

http://www.wallaceracing.com/dynamic-cr.php

Whether you cam is figure with seat to seat spec or @.050 will decide which one you need!

XJoshua, you will need to know the valve open and close spec before you can figure "Dynamic CR".....aculaly you only need the Int valve "Close" spec.

Flash
 
Last edited:
Israel said:
With your specs above, I'm getting a 10.08:1 CR.
Click to expand...

I get 9.94:1 but that's assuming that the combustion chamber volume is 56cc AFTER milling ther head.
The Speed Pro 677P/677CP pistons would yield a CR of 9.5:1 with a 0.004" tighter quench.
 
Hint of the day: Radiator caps should never be removed when the engine temp is 210*F! Dont ask...

Questions:
Im getting antzee and want to just have the stroker done. Will a 10:1 compression ratio force me to buying 91 octane at the pump or will 87 octance sufice? Also what hazards will I run into when running a 10:1 compression ratio?

Last question... Could I use the stock stamped steel rocker arms without problems for the first few months of break in and staying bellow 3000rpms? I can only afford one of two things right now. 1.) YellaTerras or 2.) Parts to assemble. #2 im in favor of because Im tired of adding oil and antifreeze every week.

Also could someone rerun the numbers above in the calc except with a head volume of 57 and 58?
 
Frank Z said:
10:1?!? In Colorado?!?!? You're gonna need a helluvalot more Octane than 91. Keep it closer to 9.4 maybe 9.5:1, and your still gonna need to run it on 91 octane.
Click to expand...

I thought the rule was the higher your elevation, the lower your octane requirement? In any case, I agree that 10:1 is way too high for 91 unless you have an aluminum head and/or are retarding the timing.
 
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