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4.6L Stroker, Help me build it please!

Well i took my baby off to the machine shop today and got a estimate of the total price. Im looking at 890 which includes some parts labor is 726. i forgot to get them to order bearings or get a price for what they order them at. so add a extra 100 to the total.

Good news: my engine was super clean and that saves me 40 bucks on a load less of hot tanking. also the price for labor was much less then i thought.

bad news: my block might need to be bored passed .040". why is this bad i already have my pistons and rings. so anyone wanna trade unused .030 pistons for .050 or .060. or trade 4.0 block for 4.0 block that doesnt have a bad lip on it.

better news: my dad got me 3 canyon "looking"(has extra ribbing) 16" rims and 1 saw blade "looking" 15" rim for just hanging a ceiling fan. anyone wanna trade a sawblade for a canyon looking 16"er?

that pretty much takes care of all the new news. still havent recieved any info on my previously stated fuel problem.

EDIT: Well just called summit and they said since my pistons were backordered for a month they will use that as my date of shipment so there is no restocking fee. so ill just end up sending rings and pistons back and get a bigger size IF I HAVE TO.
 
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GET another block.

Find a shortblock from a '97 or newer that has the factory 'girdle' for strength -
the blocks are stronger too.

You can get these pretty cheaply - then have your .030 pistons installed.


Have you joined strokers @ yahoogroups.com yet ?

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/strokers/


We're currently arranging 'Roller Camshafts' for the 4.0 engine.
 
XJoshua said:
Well i took my baby off to the machine shop today and got a estimate of the total price. Im looking at 890 which includes some parts labor is 726. i forgot to get them to order bearings or get a price for what they order them at. so add a extra 100 to the total.

Good news: my engine was super clean and that saves me 40 bucks on a load less of hot tanking. also the price for labor was much less then i thought.

bad news: my block might need to be bored passed .040". why is this bad i already have my pistons and rings. so anyone wanna trade unused .030 pistons for .050 or .060. or trade 4.0 block for 4.0 block that doesnt have a bad lip on it.

better news: my dad got me 3 canyon "looking"(has extra ribbing) 16" rims and 1 saw blade "looking" 15" rim for just hanging a ceiling fan. anyone wanna trade a sawblade for a canyon looking 16"er?

that pretty much takes care of all the new news. still havent recieved any info on my previously stated fuel problem.

EDIT: Well just called summit and they said since my pistons were backordered for a month they will use that as my date of shipment so there is no restocking fee. so ill just end up sending rings and pistons back and get a bigger size IF I HAVE TO.


If yours is the old renix block, then there is plenty of metal in the cylinder walls for over .060" so i wouldn't be warred there.

If you haven't modified the pistons.....I would bet that they would exchange them for the larger bore.

If you have done the cc enlarging on top of the piston........I would be looking of another block so that you can use them pistons.

Flash.
 
Pistons and rings are already being shipped back. Its a 92-95 block. Had the bores gauged and even if the rings wear in deep he said it wouldnt break. .060 pistons should arrive next week.

He's working on the head right now since I cant have it balanced until the pistons arrive. Need to take him the old 4.0 valves tomorrow since I cant make the trip to the east side today.
 
XJoshua said:
Pistons and rings are already being shipped back. Its a 92-95 block. Had the bores gauged and even if the rings wear in deep he said it wouldnt break. .060 pistons should arrive next week.

He's working on the head right now since I cant have it balanced until the pistons arrive. Need to take him the old 4.0 valves tomorrow since I cant make the trip to the east side today.

.060 over bore, will be fine.......any thing over that could......be scary!


At the vary most, you will need a better cooling system.(Due to more heat from the combustion chamber getting into the cooling system.)

Flash.
 
What efforts can be taken to increase cooling? Would a 180 thermostat be a good portion of a solution? Im looking into finally getting my stroker underway and trying to keep costs down, I would try not to go with a new radiator.

Also on a side note, my jeep is a 97, should I stick with a 97 block or would anything from 97+ be acceptable?
 
seanyb505 said:
What efforts can be taken to increase cooling? Would a 180 thermostat be a good portion of a solution? Im looking into finally getting my stroker underway and trying to keep costs down, I would try not to go with a new radiator.

Also on a side note, my jeep is a 97, should I stick with a 97 block or would anything from 97+ be acceptable?

SOME ONE CORRECT ME IF I'M WRONG
but as far a block go......you can use to old Renix block, all the way up to the latest block!
A Lot of thing changed around it but all bolt up.....as far as the block go's...Right?


Flash.
 
Flash said:
SOME ONE CORRECT ME IF I'M WRONG
but as far a block go......you can use to old Renix block, all the way up to the latest block!

You are correct Flash. If you use a '95 and earlier block, you can retrofit the main bearing cap studs and girdle from a later block.
 
seanyb505 said:
What efforts can be taken to increase cooling? Would a 180 thermostat be a good portion of a solution? Im looking into finally getting my stroker underway and trying to keep costs down, I would try not to go with a new radiator.

Also on a side note, my jeep is a 97, should I stick with a 97 block or would anything from 97+ be acceptable?

Im going with a eBay 3Core updated to the open cooling system probally with a 185 Thermo and dual electric fans.

---------------------------------------

Well time for a update. Well not really but some photos to detail my previous post.

200705-12003.jpg


200705-12005.jpg

#6 finished with the first phase of boring.

200705-12004.jpg

The black line on the left is the lip that couldnt be removed at .030 over.


The machine in action. Sorry about the lighting.

He's working on the head right now and Ill be back over that way when the .060 over pistons and ring set arrive.
 
sorry for the double post.

what igniton electronics is everyone running on the renixs, adjustable fpr, adjustable map or both? also im high altitude and plan to move to lower altitude in a few years. also which injectors should i get for a 4.7L 26lbs?
 
http://www.injector.com/injectorselection.php

injector size is based on hp requirements, IE my plan is for 290hp at the crank , so it says ~30.7 so i would get 32lb ford injectors off ebay. the same motor with an eaton m90 supercharger at 360hp with bsfc of .7, would want 52lb injectors.
 
Well to keep my weekly viewers apprised of my progress I have some good news.

Pistons and ring set arrive around June 7th! More good news...I got my 3row radiator tonight at 9:16pm very odd time for arrival but it got here in two days. Even better news my wanting to be killed already 4.0L has thrown me a bone and stopped over heating after $80.00 in random testings and parts. Turns out if you use two hose clamps on every end of a hose things stop leaking.

Bad news. Im almost over budget and will go over budget by a bit. My budget in march was $2500 i have spent $2180.85 so far on parts and machine labor(does not include machine shop parts ordered(about $200ish)).

I still need to purchase fuel injectors(30lbs to start might go down to 26lbs). 99+ intake manifold fuel rail and TB. exhaust headers. build my exhaust system. then random electronics(mainly a adjustable map which i might just make one).

So with all this plugged in to best of luck value ill be over budget by...dun...dun...dun...$380.85 which will increase more once i get a total of machine shop parts purchased. Still comming in at just around $3k for a high-buck type of stroker built for less than the high-buck i would say i got lucky.

I think that takes care of all the news. ohh ill post a detailed excel file of my budget when im finished with notes all over the place.

Questions!!!
Is the built in tranny cooler on a 3row radiator worthy of cooling a aw4 with a kid that enjoys pedal to the metal 25% of his driving time?

Should I keep my 5.0L TB at 65mm or increase it to 70mm or 75mm?

Is there a serial on my AW4 that will tell me my spline count because I have a chance to get a NP241 or is it NV?

For the renix system is a adj map enough to tune my fuel needs? Will I need a higher rate fuel pump with 30lbs injectors? Adj FPR?
 
XJoshua said:
Well to keep my weekly viewers apprised of my progress I have some good news.

Pistons and ring set arrive around June 7th! More good news...I got my 3row radiator tonight at 9:16pm very odd time for arrival but it got here in two days. Even better news my wanting to be killed already 4.0L has thrown me a bone and stopped over heating after $80.00 in random testings and parts. Turns out if you use two hose clamps on every end of a hose things stop leaking.

Bad news. Im almost over budget and will go over budget by a bit. My budget in march was $2500 i have spent $2180.85 so far on parts and machine labor(does not include machine shop parts ordered(about $200ish)).

I still need to purchase fuel injectors(30lbs to start might go down to 26lbs). 99+ intake manifold fuel rail and TB. exhaust headers. build my exhaust system. then random electronics(mainly a adjustable map which i might just make one).

So with all this plugged in to best of luck value ill be over budget by...dun...dun...dun...$380.85 which will increase more once i get a total of machine shop parts purchased. Still comming in at just around $3k for a high-buck type of stroker built for less than the high-buck i would say i got lucky.

I think that takes care of all the news. ohh ill post a detailed excel file of my budget when im finished with notes all over the place.

Questions!!!
Is the built in tranny cooler on a 3row radiator worthy of cooling a aw4 with a kid that enjoys pedal to the metal 25% of his driving time?

Should I keep my 5.0L TB at 65mm or increase it to 70mm or 75mm?
I thing the 65mm will be just fine.......you can always experiment with that latter.

Is there a serial on my AW4 that will tell me my spline count because I have a chance to get a NP241 or is it NV?
:dunno:

For the renix system is a adj map enough to tune my fuel needs? Will I need a higher rate fuel pump with 30lbs injectors? Adj FPR?

I thing the stock ones(inj and fuel pump) will work just fine for braking in the cam.....and eng, in.
then you can make a better guess at the right one latter.

Map adj is always a good idea, but.......I would get the cam broke in first.

Flash.
 
From what I read, all renix AW4's are 21 spline and 91 on and the HO's brought out the 23 spline ones.
 
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