35's on a daily driver

[dbswede]

4.88's but remember 35's are a harsh ride...Its been a long time since this jeep rode like car...........gearing wise its good with a man 5 speed.

 

[dbswede]

I also think that tall tails are coming into play with mileage above 17 ish

 

[trailbound xj]

I also think that tall tails are coming into play with mileage above 17 ish

x2

4:88's on 34 ltb's gets me about 13.5 if I don't flog it . even on 34's I wish I had more gear.on 32's the gearing felt great and I got about 15mpg then .

 

[Mullet]

Are you running with the front shaft hooked up?

 

[aparke4]

for DD i disconnect it, axle side, on the road and put it back on before i hit the trail - i have a few bungees that hold it underneath ( i have 7 inches lift plenty of room) so it doesnt flop around and i tape the ujoint caps (duh) so they dont fall off... drives much better and saves the front end some resistance and wear - i have locker in the front so with no front shaft thats why it feels and drives better

 

[Mullet]

Just bought another XJ... this one with a Rusty 9" longarm. 35" Traxxas.

 

[HeavyMetal]

4.56 or 4.88 and you will be fine. neither will make or break you. i run 4.56s on 35s and have 0 complaints as to how it is after having driven 33s on that gearing as well.

 

[Mullet]

Just found out it has 4.10 gears. Wonder how that will play into the picture?

 

[cal]

I also think that tall tails are coming into play with mileage above 17 ish

You can think that all you want, but you'd be wrong. On the highway, I drive ~250 miles and will put between 11.5 and 12.5 gallons in the tank with 4.88's and 35's.

Thats 250 miles by my odometer, which my speedo reads 6 mph low at 70 mph.. so its actually a little better than I'm claiming.

Factors are roof racks, weight (bumpers, tools, etc), speed, terrain, driving style, pushin in front of other rigs vs pulling in behind an 18 wheeler (which makes a big difference).

If you drive like you're trying to get 22 mpg, and your rig is tuned well, good o2 sensor and proper gearing, you can get 22 mpg.

 

[Jes]

If you drive like you're trying to get 22 mpg, and your rig is tuned well, good o2 sensor and proper gearing, you can get 22 mpg.

Agreed.
My best ever was 25 MPG and that's with 5.13 gears and 35" tall tires.
Now, I was not netting that all the time but I consider anything below 15 MPG very poor mileage.
Haveing a well tuned engine and the proper gearing makes a huge difference in mileage.

 

[cal]

Haveing a well tuned engine and the proper gearing makes a huge difference in mileage.

Exactly - and what people need to realize is 'proper' means DEEP. 4.10's and 33's isnt going to get better mpg. Even though your spinning less RPM's you have your foot to the floor to get moving.

 

[mudxj92]

well right now i got 31's with stock 3.55's and iam savin' up, i want like 4.5-5.5 inches of lift and 35's but i dont want to wait till i build up my dana 30 and 44. i know i need to. iam just undecided on it all

 

[mudxj92]

and the money factor is the main thing, i just need to figure out what to save up for first.

 

[MiNi Beast]

Can assume you have a 3in lift now with 31's, so save and get the gears in the axles. Then the lift. then the tires. then way you can always keep playin.

 

[mudxj92]

yup 3 inch pro-comp and 31" SSR's.
but what about shafts and lockers?
should i get gears>lift>tires and then go from there on shafts and lockers.
i have the 297 style u-joints and iam not a dumb wheeler who throttles on it.

 

[TRAILREADYXJ]

If you can, do the full axle build first, but that's really just to save time and labor. It would be easier to install the lockers at the same time you setup the gears. Lockers and 31s can get you through some stuff you couldn't do open on 35s, granted it can work the other way around as well...

You say you have a light foot, so depending on the terrain, you could probably hold off on the alloy shafts for now... Just make sure you carry spares!!! I have broken a couple stock D30 shafts locked on 33s, but both were fairly extreme situations. You WILL want/need alloys eventually, so go ahead and get them if your budget allows.

 

[MiNi Beast]

If you can, do the full axle build first, but that's really just to save time and labor. It would be easier to install the lockers at the same time you setup the gears. Lockers and 31s can get you through some stuff you couldn't do open on 35s, granted it can work the other way around as well...

You say you have a light foot, so depending on the terrain, you could probably hold off on the alloy shafts for now... Just make sure you carry spares!!! I have broken a couple stock D30 shafts locked on 33s, but both were fairly extreme situations. You WILL want/need alloys eventually, so go ahead and get them if your budget allows.

:thumbup: like he said.

 

[fubar XJ]

35" MTRs, 4.88 gears, AW4, HO 4.0L, get about 13 mpg around town, 17 on the highway. The 4.0L is pushing 204K miles, it's a little tired. The power is decent, the mileage fair, it rides and drives pretty damn nice for a lifted dual-purpose XJ. The MTRs are probably the nicest single thing in terms of road noise, handling, and mileage. I may step up to TRX-US Swampers at some point, I've always been a fan of the Swamper tires and I need a good dual-purpose tire with a little better performance off-road.

 

[mudxj92]

alright thanks guys.
yeah i will just work on building up my axles.:wave1:

 

[tl1r]

I run an 88 YJ with a 93 FI setup and a 4.6 stroker, ax15, ford 8.8 and 4.10's gets up and goes fine and I put a 4.1 in the t-case for off road. less aerodynamic i dont get better than 16.5 mpg on average but my motor also has issues.