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35s no trimming

Here is a pic of a XJ with 35" Pro Comp XM/Ts and the 7.5" RE LA kit.
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my cherokee has 8 inch coils, 6.5 inch leaf's and 2 inch shackles. running 35" SSR's. the front is trimmed about 2 inches and the stock flair reattached with some rivets. The rear is stock just with flares removed. I am also running only stock bumpstops, when I flex the wheel hits the inner fender well before it hits the bump or the shock. and thats only if i try to max out.

when I get a little more money i plan to fold the rear wheel wells, spring for some bushwackers or rusty's flairs, get some longer bumps in the rear, try some of those prothane coil inserts, and go for some 37" Claws.

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Here is a pic of a XJ with 35" Pro Comp XM/Ts and the 7.5" RE LA kit.
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either he set his bumpstops to hit at ride height or he rubs lol.

my cherokee has 8 inch coils, 6.5 inch leaf's and 2 inch shackles. running 35" SSR's.

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i can easily say i am not a fan of that look, reminds me of clowns on stilts for some reason. and i will refuse to wheel something that tall and narrow. but if it works for you thats all that matters.
 
Well i know everybody is entitled to there opinions,,but i wanted to keep the factory body look and its not a dd or a mountain climber so its got a little extra lift and im sure it will settle some but just didnt want to cut it..but this isnt my post so..:shhh:

So you put a bunch of money into something just to make it big yet you don't use it for anything? All I can say is :doh:
 
Trimming the wheelwells is relatively easy to do and can look just as good as factory if done right. Read the write-up in FAQ, take your time, use a quality flare set-up when done. TJ flares work very well, although I'll be building tube-flares for the rear on my new build because I kept tearing up the rear TJ flares on my old XJ. I've never hit the front flares on anything, I don't believe tube flares are necessary in the front.

7-8" of lift is overkill IMO. Unless all you do are snowy FS roads and open mud pits, the COG will make it pretty tippy on an actual trail with difficult terrain.
 
~7" lift 35's. No trimming up front, very little in the rear. I did the cut and fold for the rear so it probably added about an inch of clearance. Zero bump stops all the way around and it takes quite a drop off to get it to rub anywhere.



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Stock flares, removed by a tree.
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Um, how can you claim you didn't trim up front when you're running Bushwackers?? :dunno:

Keep reading. I cut the stupid BWs to fit over top of the stock flares. I didn't care about the BWs. That last pic is a pic of the stock flare. The BW was removed by a tree.
 
Keep reading. I cut the stupid BWs to fit over top of the stock flares. I didn't care about the BWs. That last pic is a pic of the stock flare. The BW was removed by a tree.

Gotcha. Why put Bushwachers over stock flares? Keep it street legal? That's the only advantage I can see.
 
Gotcha. Why put Bushwachers over stock flares? Keep it street legal? That's the only advantage I can see.

Yeah, that was the only reason. I had them from an old jeep and needed something quick. I have tj flares on it now. I really want tube...someday :D
 
hmmmm...
 
Hammered - I actually managed to do pretty good folding that over with only 2-3 cuts per side, then whacking the crap out of it with my silly little carpenter's hammer. Might smack it down a bit more but it seems to be doing fine on 33s and 3.5" so far.
 
I didn't cut that pinch weld at all. I just hammered the wee out of it with a 4 lb, and it gave in. I'm running 35s with 5" lift, but I trimmed the hell outta mine.
 
going to need to trim this is 7.5 of lift and 35's i still hit. all i have is drop brackets. going to lower it some
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5.5're coils. 2 extra coil isolators front lift. 5.5 re leafs with 2' rough country shackles

this is how my jeep currently sits
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