Neophyte - need Transfer Case/Lift advice

[WGxj]

Bottom line: All I needed was an add-a-leaf.
Everything else was just a bad idea, including this thread!

 

[RCP Phx]

A SYE is the best approach, a dropped TC works but you already know the sacrifice. Definitely check out IRO and try to avoid RC whenever possible!

 

[RCP Phx]

Never heard of any issues! You may have misinterpreted something? A full HD sye for a 242 is available, I personally don't care for H-n-T's! Your speedo is electric (no cable).

 

[RCP Phx]

Your weight loading won't have any impact on driveshaft length.

 

[Ol Blue]

The weight won't affect the SYE. What axle installation are you talking about? What are they selling you now? Honestly sounds like this shop is taking your lunch money.

A better question is why do you need a SYE right now...is there a vibration? If you only have 3" of lift and dropped the TC already then there is absolutely no need for an SYE. Unless you just want to raise the TC back up to gain the clearance...but I think you're fine without a SYE on 3" of lift. Unless you have a vibration that was created by the lift, but you never mentioned that.

Personally I would slow down and stop giving these guys money. Do lots of research and figure out a plan for the vehicle instead of throwing money at it.

 

[WGxj]

Ol Blue hit the central question, "why do you need a SYE right now?"
I didn't. The notion was a consequence of an unneeded TC-Drop sold by an Offroad Shop to an unsuspecting customer.

 

[RCP Phx]

There is a reason for a sye, you won't lose your tc fluid if you break a driveshaft and you can drive without it (doesn't apply to +97). And you usually can use your front shaft. The +97 output shaft is the weak point.

 

[Bent]

Do lots of research and figure out a plan for the vehicle instead of throwing money at it.

Do lots of research and figure out a plan for the vehicle instead of throwing money at it.

Do lots of research and figure out a plan for the vehicle instead of throwing money at it.

Do lots of research and figure out a plan for the vehicle instead of throwing money at it.

 

[Bent]

Do lots of research and figure out a plan for the vehicle instead of throwing money at it.
Do lots of research and figure out a plan for the vehicle instead of throwing money at it.

Do lots of research and figure out a plan for the vehicle instead of throwing money at it.

Need I repeat?

I spent almost 18 months on here researching lifts and EVERYTHING that is involved with getting it right the first time. That was 20 years ago. With the lift, and associated components I have ran 31s on stock wheels, 33s on forged aluminum alloy rims, and now 35s while still running some of the original parts. That was 20 years ago.

Doing it right pays long dividends. There is much more than slapping springs on. Each increment in tire size brings new challenges, and slight modifications.

Buying well researched quality components is essential.

For 31s I went with a 4.5" RE lift with adjustable upper AND lower short arms. I still run the rear shackles and the control arms. When I plated my frame (all 3 sides) I fabbed 4" drop brackets to replace the factory mounts. The brackets are drilled as non adjustable, though, provisions were made. My 20 year adjustable arms allow me to

Do lots of research and figure out a plan for the vehicle instead of throwing money at it.
Do lots of research and figure out a plan for the vehicle instead of throwing money at it.

Do lots of research and figure out a plan for the vehicle instead of throwing money at it.

Need I repeat?

I spent almost 18 months on here researching lifts and EVERYTHING that is involved with getting it right the first time. That was 20 years ago. With the lift, and associated components I have ran 31s on stock wheels, 33s on forged aluminum alloy rims, and now 35s while still running some of the original parts. That was 20 years ago.

Doing it right pays long dividends. There is much more than slapping springs on. Each increment in tire size brings new challenges, and slight modifications.

Buying well researched quality components is essential.

For 31s I went with a 4.5" RE lift with adjustable upper AND lower short arms. I still run the rear shackles and the control arms. When I plated my frame (all 3 sides) I fabbed 4" drop brackets to replace the factory mounts. The brackets are drilled as non adjustable, though, provisions were made. My 20 year adjustable arms allow me to dial in the correct alignment specs, permanently.

And yes, an Advance Adapters SYE was installed when the lift went on.
Think ahead.
Read. Ask questions when you need. We are here to help. Good luck with your project.

 

[Bent]

Thanks for the brutal honesty but "BENT's" needs are not my needs.

20 years ago, the 97-01 xj's were not at end of life cycle. And for as many xj owners, notwithstanding nuances inherent to different models over the years, seeking to improve their rigs, considering my needs notably at the minimalist end of the upgrade spectrum, I hardly think they pose such an out-sized System Integrator level effort for a few more dollars (I mean a couple more inches), I mean a simple MOD.

So far, I haven't heard anything that tells me the total solution goes beyond perhaps motor mounts and a SYE and custom drive shaft, TO DO THE WHOLE JOB. And I do appreciate the reasons provided by RCP Phx posted above - thank you (now I have a clue about the small fluid leak on my garage floor between the Transfer Case and Front End along the driveshaft) that I never saw before.

But to continue with the brutal honesty, that information should't take 18 months of research when the money that's being laid on the table is not opposed to doing what it takes if you get my drift. And with no negative reflection on enjoying the freedom of the offroad genre, I am sadly beginning to get the impression that the Jeep MOD Industry hasn't advanced beyond a bunch of cottage industry piece-part vendors.

Is there anything else that someone new to the Jeep Mod world should know about doing a simple 3" LIFT?

Edited to include the last of my post. Somehow it got cut off.

FYI, I maintain, etc. a Renix, HO, and a Late Model.

 

[Phil]

If you did not have driveline vibrations after the lift and before the transfer case (transmission crossmember) drop, you can remove the drop and restore belly clearance.

I am guessing that the “speedometer issue” was someone else’s guess that the cable would be too short for a dropped installation. I don’t know what that is about.

My 1989 junk on 3-3.5” of lift does not have or need a transfer case drop, but it is a different generation than your 1997.

I still have stock steering and stock replacement motor mounts. I dropped the sway bar because I chose to install control arm drop brackets, but they were not really needed.

 

[Ol Blue]

Yea if I had a nickel for every time an alignment shop told me something stupid or that I need to replace a part that was fine...I'd have like $2.

I wouldn't trust the shop's word without proof, since they have an incentive to sell you more parts and labor.

As for the decision to stick with the drop or go SYE...that's up to you. An SYE is undoubtedly better than what you have, just as long as you are aware it isn't necessary for you. Are Dana 60s and beadlocks better than what you have? Yes. Are they necessary? Probably not. Welcome to the Jeep world, how much money are you willing to light on fire to have the best parts?

That bring up my next point. What is the purpose of this Jeep? What size tires are you going to run? Will you actually notice that 1 inch of lost TC clearance? Unless you are running pretty difficult trails then the answer is no you will never get hung up on the TC. If you just run muddy logging roads, I doubt you will ever need that extra breakover angle. Also there are TC skid plates out there you could slap on and send it.

 

[Bent]

That's the point, and you're welcome.

Nominated.

 

[WGxj]

That's the point, and you're welcome.

Nominated.

I did a search on using the search string "advice for a 242 SYE" and got 25-30 hits most of which seem to apply to my questions! It will take some time to pour over that info. But if I have any questions I will be sure to post them here. thks

 

[RCP Phx]

The +97 is a dry slip yoke but it's un-supported and the weak link.

 

[RCP Phx]

Does that mean all SYE Mods (242 T-case) provides the better 32-spline result?

Only the HD ones, h-n-t's are the factory 27 spline.

 

[RCP Phx]

You need to change shops and get a reputable one. Your being told a bunch of crap. That kit will not work for you and you need a kit that uses a factory speedo sensor.

 

[Bent]

As far as motor mounts go with concern regarding the TC drop, lifetime warranty from autozone, Etc will keep you covered.
Not necessarily what someone would call an ideal solution, but it works. Keep an eye on your transmission mount as well.

 

[RCP Phx]

What is it about that kit that will not work? I have no vested interest in doing the wrong thing. I have another shop that would install parts I buy in addition to this particular shop that made the recommendation. At this point, I would rather do the SYE modification to get the clearance. But am I buying into more problems? Although they are totally unrelated, they have a clear sourcing channel to Iron Rock but were sour on H-N-T options... Please advise...

You need a std HD output shaft not a short shaft kit that doesn't have a speed gear

 

[RCP Phx]

These are what you want............

https://4xshaft.com/products/sye-242hd
https://www.ironrockoffroad.com/product/np-242j-sye-kit.html