2JZGTE swap this summer...

I left my tools at home because otherwise I'd work on the Jeep instead of studying for my next Calc II exam, however I put my hands on each shift lever and tried to see what difference if any there was. They are close... maybe the same, but my perception is that the toyota MAY be a little longer throw. It also has a longer arm on it so that could be why it feels that way. My plan is to get the cable to the transmission, and IF there is any weirdness with the throw, I will adjust it by changing the length of the shift arm. Basic geometry shows that the longer the arm the shorter the throw will be, given the cable extension/retraction distance stays constant. For example:

Drawing1-Layout1.jpg


Now there I am simply showing the cable extending 4" in a straight line, however in application it will move downward around an arc with the center of the shaft as it's axis of rotation. This will actually produce a greater difference in the number of degrees rotated than the diagram shows, but you see where I'm going with this. Is there anything you think I am missing? I feel that any difference in throw distance can be negated by adjusting the length of the shift arm to compensate. I shouldn't have to mess with the in-cab shifter at all, cept to maybe slide the prnd2l indicator around a titty bit. I don't think they have a different shift pattern. I mean, if you substitute the "L" for a "1" on the print, then they are the same. Seems like this is just a semantic difference since having "Low" in a car, let alone a Lexus, wouldn't seem appropriate for consumers. Just a theory.

As far as the 4L65, that makes sense to me, since he was putting a Chevy transmission made by a different manufacturer into his Jeep. I mean, those are completely different transmissions. The A340e (30-40le) and AW4 (30-43le) are SOOOO similar that I think this swap will work out a lot smoother, present issue not withstanding of course, lol.
 
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Oh ok I thought they were a lot more different. My only remaining worry would be if the shift positions are not equally spaced and the different ones are different on each tranny but that would be straight up stupid for them to do. Sounds like you have everything covered.
 
I'm using the factory shifter with a 700r4 transmission. Seems to me the stroke on the shifter cable amounts to about 2-inches. Determined the arm length by running the transmission selector arm stop-to-stop a few times, then mig'd an AW4 arm to the 700 arm. Sprayed on some primer while it was still warm .. mmm.
 
FWIW the little plastic bushing on the end of the shifter cable can wear out and will then randomly pop off the shifter arm. Happened on my Cadillac a lot. I ended up drilling through the plastic, putting a carriage bolt through the shifter arm and then sandwiching some nylon washers and nuts like so:

lock nut
nylon washer
shifter cable
nylon washer
jam nut
transmission selector arm
carriage bolt

The jam nut secured the carriage bolt in place, while the lock nut holds the minimal tension needed for the nylon washers against the shifter cable bushing
 
Dynasty 300dx.

I finally got an oil pan setup today. STOKED.

Progress will continue slowly, and when school is out it'll be on like donkey kong.
 
I forgot to mention earlier, if you've already done your front seal, REPLACE THE VVT-i PULLEY. Or try to re-seal it. I've seen 4 recently that came back leaking after having brand new front seals put in, and it turned out leaking from inside of the gear. There's an o-ring inside that gets hard, cracks, degrades, and start to leak oil everywhere. Spraying all over the timing belt, etc. Some people have had success re-sealing them but a new one is only about $150. I think it's worth it.
 
Tell me about it. Actually the oil pan is prepped and ready to go on...and I'm trying to locate a waggy front end...but other than that I'm not doing as well in Calc II as I thought I was and the truck is gonna have to wait a few more weeks till the end of the semester. Trying real hard to make an A.
 
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