2JZGTE swap this summer...

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The transmission bolts right into place on the stock cross member. There is about 2" all around the head and block leading into the tunnel. I have about 2.5" of clearance from valve cover to hood. Fitment couldn't be better. Wiring harness to ECU easily and cleanly reaches to the stock Jeep ecu location. There is a ton of room on the driver's side to relocate the carbon canister and the radiator overflow bottles to make room for the turbo on the other.
Fuel system: It was discussed today that the Jeep doesn't have a 1:1 fuel pressure regulated system. When the pump is pulled and the Walbro put in the normal return will be disabled and a return line will need to be run to the tank in order for the 2J fuel injection system to operate properly.
A rear sump oil pan is needed. The very corner of the diff, the bolts for adjusting the front alignment, and the panhard bar all want to crash into the front sump oil pan. Axle will if it goes up to much, though it should be fine if you have bump stops. :) I hopefully have a line on the rear sump setup.
I bought a lower pitman arm for like $70... it's for Cherokees w/ a 4" lift or so... has anyone by chance tried one on a non-lifted Jeep? I am wondering if it will affect the steering geometry in a bad way. Doesn't seem like it should, but I dunno. I disconnected the panhard bar and the steering damper and was able to get the steering arm reconnected so I can move the Jeep. Are there different shaped panhard bars?
 
Looks great... you gonna pull those mounts back out and box them up a bit so they don't fold?

Oil pan clearance is a bummer but not exactly unexpected I guess.
 
Yeah, both will get a little more metal up top, with the passenger side getting a cross-brace from inner corner to corner. I just need to be careful not to build them in so that they cannot be removed without cutting, lol.
 
It DOES fit perfect. I was hoping for that, and it looks so good it makes my di@k hard, lol. The way the steering bar crashes, I doubt the lift would help alleviate the situation. I'll build a new oil pan that will put the sump to the rear and that will clear everything nicely. I just removed the oil pan and pick-up and everything bolts back up nicely.
Here's an unforeseen hang-up: I've also only just realized that the shaft in the trans in the Aristo version shifts from the passenger side, as opposed to the Jeep AW4 which shifts from the driver's side. Makes sense now that I think about it since the Aristo is a right-hand drive car. I'm gonna pull the trans back off (only the bellhousing bolts are connected anyway) and take it back apart to switch out the parts I need so it will work with the Jeep cable. That will be done this Saturday. Dunno exactly when I'll be able to start on the oil pan or manifold just yet. Right now I have a Calc II quiz and exam that are pressing. Materials for the manifold have all been purchased at least.
 
The jeep shifter is cable driven anyways. I would simply get or make a longer cable, or even just reroute it. What arm throw does the a340 have compared to the aw4 and does it have the same p/r/n/d/3/2-1 pattern or would it maybe be easier to mount the a340 shifter in the jeep?
 
I think the shift pattern is the same... it should correlate to the Lexus GS300. I can swap the parts in the tranny. That seems easier to me than a bunch of research trying to find a trans cable that is the right length, taking apart the center console, fabricating whatever adaptations or brackets that will be needed, blah blah blah and all that headache. Transmission cables aren't exactly choke cables. I think it's always interesting how the perception of what is "easiest" varies from person to person, lol. I would personally prefer to reconfigure the equipment so that it perfectly fits the intended application rather than modify things to make them work. Trans should be easy enough. The shift shaft is located directly behind the pump. Right at the front. I have an AW4 out of the truck now, so I have the parts. No worries. Arm throw shouldn't matter since I'll use the arm from the AW4, correct? I'll take pics and post them Sunday.
 
I have to agree with the way you're doing it, it might be a little work but no need to mess around searching and it's just going to look... perfect! Some people won't even notice it's not the engine that's suppose to be there LOL.
 
Ahhhh... best laid plans and all that... Kas, you are correct in your proposed solution.
Turns out I'm going to have to find another cable solution, because the shift arm is on the right side in the Supras as well. Not only is this going to affect the cable placement, but it also has everything to do with the valve body and manual valve location in it. There is no changing that. Note to others: If you want to do this and keep the shift arm on the driver's side, try to use the AW4 with the 2J, otherwise you will need a shift cable solution. :)

Anyone know of a good source for custom length oem type transmission cables? :)
 
I don't understand why you can't just move the cable to the other side, as you stated everything is in pretty much the same location and the shifter is right on top of the transmission.

Is the pattern on your hybrid transmission reversed?
 
I would have to say move it over... the cable coming out of the shifter assembly is mostly centered, the only reason it ends up on the driver side for an aw4 is that the hole in the firewall is biased to the driver side. Bore/punch a new hole, move the cable over, seal old hole up, attach to tranny. I am still worried about cable throw / shift pattern though. that is an issue Frank Z ran into with his 4L65 iirc. Also take into account exhaust manifold position when you figure how that shifter cable is getting routed...

Worst case you will have to put a supra/gs300 shifter in it. Really should not be that bad, the stock shifter mounts to a piece of sheetmetal that is bolted over the hole in the tranny tunnel (for the shift tower on standards) using selftappers. Customizing it should be no big deeal, on a 96 and earlier I believe the gear shift legend even slides out of the bezel so you can probably print one up on overhead transparency stock and slide it in.
 
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Hmmm... I'm not sure why I didn't think of that Kastein... I tend to over think and complicate things. Damn good idea.
While I can't change the side of the arm on the transmission, I'm sure I can move the shift arm from one trans to the other. I'll check the throw out when I get the cable connected and let you know. No matter what happens, changing the length of the arm will allow me to get the ratio to feel perfect. I am happy with this solution. Nice job. :) Still working on the oil pan solution. Either gonna fix and assemble a busted but mostly there upper pan, buy a used assembly from a Supra or SC300 if one turns up, or just make a whole new one and just buy the pick-up. Once this shit is done I can start on reconnecting the pan-hard bar, relocating the carbon canister and radiator overflow, then the manifold/turbo kit construction can begin. Keep the suggestions coming, I don't know everything by any means. :)
 
Hmmmm... this damn engine is in the way now... Anyone want a 4.0L with <90k (undocumented) on it? LOL. My wife asked if I should wait till the Jeep is running again before letting someone buy the motor. I responded with

"Why? There is no fail."
 
My worry about moving the shift arm is that it may not make up for the spacing - with the different shift pattern, the shift detents may be at different spacing on the shaft angle wise, you gotta think about that *and* the arm length. I'm usually way too lazy to do all that math / figuring and just throw in the towel and plan on using the original shifter assembly :roflmao: this is why I haven't gotten around to doing the bsfab NP231 shifter linkage on my XJ yet.
 
There aren't any detents in the shifter handle. It's just a silk-screen inidcators on a clear plastic. You can even slide the plastic lens around to line up the gear positions if they are slightly off.

The only real concerns is if you the tranny-side lever throw is within range of the shifter gate to reach [P] and [1]. If it's in range you can pull the handle side apart and fab a fix
 
There are detents for certain positions, but I was speaking of the detents in the rotating shifter shaft going through the transmission.
 
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