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Pre-runner type suspension stuff

I just finished installing a Currie Anti-rock and thought I'd post up some pics. My upper limit strap mounts on the frame would have interfered with the anti-rocks arms so I had an offset bent into them so they would clear. I also trimmed off the last two holes on the arms. I started with their 35.75" wide universal kit with 17" long steel arms. I've got the links on the stiffest setting and it made a night and day difference.







Also installed Currie steering. Everything is nice and tight now. Just have to get the front end aligned.
 
Been thinking this about adding this swaybar setup for a while. If I'm reading correctly, you could have just run a 15" arm and not had to chop anything off and have ample clearance between the arm and coil?

Thanks for sharing the pics.
 
XJEEPER said:
Been thinking this about adding this swaybar setup for a while. If I'm reading correctly, you could have just run a 15" arm and not had to chop anything off and have ample clearance between the arm and coil?

Thanks for sharing the pics.
Click to expand...

The shortest arms they offered on the website were 17" long so thats what I got. I ended up using the stiffest setting anyway so the arms are still longer than necessary.
 
Indeed it is... And my spaceship is fully on the fritz, waiting on parts from Acme Mfg.

Are you running in class 17 or is your rig just for grins??
 
woody said:
Indeed it is... And my spaceship is fully on the fritz, waiting on parts from Acme Mfg.

Are you running in class 17 or is your rig just for grins??
Click to expand...
I provide chase support for a class 17.
 
Good deal... sounds like fun! (plus not limited to 17 rulebook)

Please report back on those bumps!!!

Edit... I agree with Goatman. $900 might sound kinda steep, but the kit offers up a great range of tunability.
 
Had an idea last night while cutting and fitting some Deaver springs. If I cut the bottom of the top coil tower above the bumpstop mounting plate can I slip a air bump into that tube like the Acos pro? Also I notice that some of the air bumps have large threads on top. I wonder if those threads would match a standard Acos top. Just an idea I was starting to toss around. But this is my real question before I go further:
I like low lift and 35" tires so I rely on my bumpstops for an axel pivot point when crawling. Think of a ramp test. If I'm flexed out and on the air bumps will they hold or start to compress? Do you think they could be pumped up to a point that they could be used as a axel pivot when crawling but still have enough give on a hard hit and basically take advantage of them for duel use? Maybe I would loose the benifits of an air bump and be just as well with a regular bumpstop.This is the stuff I looked at. http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/home.php?cat=54
 
Like this?

skullver's very humble jeepspeed build link

Under hood view

IMG_0479.jpg


Mounts without bumpstops

IMG_0101.jpg


Test fitting assembled view

DSCN1057.jpg


Assembled view

IMG_0297.jpg


What the rear should look like

IMG_0570.jpg
 
Stumpalump said:
Had an idea last night while cutting and fitting some Deaver springs. If I cut the bottom of the top coil tower above the bumpstop mounting plate can I slip a air bump into that tube like the Acos pro? Also I notice that some of the air bumps have large threads on top. I wonder if those threads would match a standard Acos top. Just an idea I was starting to toss around. But this is my real question before I go further:
I like low lift and 35" tires so I rely on my bumpstops for an axel pivot point when crawling. Think of a ramp test. If I'm flexed out and on the air bumps will they hold or start to compress? Do you think they could be pumped up to a point that they could be used as a axel pivot when crawling but still have enough give on a hard hit and basically take advantage of them for duel use? Maybe I would loose the benifits of an air bump and be just as well with a regular bumpstop.This is the stuff I looked at. http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/home.php?cat=54
Click to expand...

The stock bumpstop tube isn't big enough for a hydro. bump to fit inside of. I don't think that the stock tubes could handle the loads that these bumps would place on them. Unfortunately the hydro. bumps won't fit inside of the regular ACOS units either. I had to ditch my ACOS when I installed the bumps. As far as pivoting the axle on the bump, I think it's fine. I run 200psi in mine and when crawling, they will still compress. For me they limit the uptravel in the front to a point forcing the rear to work, and then compress the rest of the way. It really balanced out the front to rear articulation. The highspeed benefits are obvious.
 
Uglygreenxj said:
The stock bumpstop tube isn't big enough for a hydro. bump to fit inside of. I don't think that the stock tubes could handle the loads that these bumps would place on them. Unfortunately the hydro. bumps won't fit inside of the regular ACOS units either. I had to ditch my ACOS when I installed the bumps. As far as pivoting the axle on the bump, I think it's fine. I run 200psi in mine and when crawling, they will still compress. For me they limit the uptravel in the front to a point forcing the rear to work, and then compress the rest of the way. It really balanced out the front to rear articulation. The highspeed benefits are obvious.
Click to expand...
For crawling and stuffing a wheel I set my bumpstops so the tires won't hit if turned. For a high speed straight on hit they could go a bit higher without hitting so a stiff hydro bump may be nice. I need to study up on this and see if the ACOS is a better bang for the buck than the ones you have to fab in. It sure would be nice to be able to hammer down on the jeep when you want to and crawl when you need to. Is that 200 psi of air or nitrogen and how high can you go? Are they progressive? If so when do they start getting firm enough to not compress anymore when crawling?
 
Stumpalump said:
For crawling and stuffing a wheel I set my bumpstops so the tires won't hit if turned. For a high speed straight on hit they could go a bit higher without hitting so a stiff hydro bump may be nice. I need to study up on this and see if the ACOS is a better bang for the buck than the ones you have to fab in. It sure would be nice to be able to hammer down on the jeep when you want to and crawl when you need to. Is that 200 psi of air or nitrogen and how high can you go? Are they progressive? If so when do they start getting firm enough to not compress anymore when crawling?
Click to expand...

It's 200psi of Nitrogen. I'm not sure how high you can go with them though. They come already charged to 200psi. For ease of install, you can't beat the ACOS units, but my Junk sees alot of airtime and I like the peace of mind of having my bump cans tied into the cage.
 
My concern for those ACOS hydros is in protecting them.
A big problem with lifted Jeeps is having the spring bow.
The stock bumpstops hit the inside of the springs and you end up with a compromise. Setting up the stops to bottom at a right angle forces you to accept some spring rub on the way down. Avoiding the spring rub leads to a funky angle when they bottom.
Obviously neither of these scenarios are acceptable with $900 hydro bumpstops.
Longarm four or three link setups help but don't get rid of this completely.
 
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