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XJ Rebuild...

I'd look into returning that JKS mount and look at RUFFSTUFF theirs mounts on top of the axle. Shouldn't get in the way of your steering. I'd be willing to bet it's cheaper than JKS also.
 
I dont know how I missed following this build so long! I have to say that your craftsmanship and welding ability is quite impressive. I am not knocking a D30 build at all, but just curious as why you chose to build up a D30 over a 44 etc? It is evident that your skill set is quite capable of a custom built 44 etc. Again, nice work, I am subscribed!

Cheese "stacking dimes" Man
 
Believe me I have been looking for 44s or even 60s for the last few months and just not coming up with anything.

I wouldn’t be doing this if i didn’t blow up a R&P, I believe it mainly failed due to poor setup, so at first I was going to just drop another R&P in but I figured I would beef up a little. I already had chromo shafts, locker, cover, ruff stuff steering kit so I found this stock 30 for 50$ because I believe mine is tweaked and I can keep the jeep drivable for Mall crawling while building this axle.

Also my rear is a decent “built” 8.25 so without adapters I can’t get much into the front to match the rear, then I would need wheels and then I would want deeper then 4:56s if I do it all over again….

And I’m tried of waiting!. I want to go wheeling without spending 5K on another set of axles/ wheels/ tires/ etc.

I am still looking for another set of axles, either 44/9 and runs 37s or 60/60 and run 40s…. but that is a lot of cash and time.

SO in short this is to get me back up and running for the time being and although it may be seen as burning cash on a 30 I’m having fun ”building” it up…for cost of “rebuilding” this axle will be about
Axle 50
Gears 135
Carrier 65
Bearings 60
Truss 90
IRO Braces 40
Alloy ball joints 140
So 600 or so to get it up and going AND hopefully it won’t blow up before I go to bigger axles so I can recoup a few bucks back…. and yes I know if I add in the other parts I have I am probbaly into 2G but this has been done over the last 7 years, and only in the past 2 have I had my own garage and with a welder, tools, and time if I even wanted to do a full axle swap.

Also, If I go to bigger axles, I want full width... currently I do not own a truck or trailer. So when I go wheeling I can get a truck to tow from work but I have to rent a U haul trailer and my jeep just barley fits as is...so with full widths it won’t work anymore so I will need to at least buy my own trailer...lol

One more FINAL reason...lol... Of the last 2 years when I could of actually built "big" axles. I decided to instead take on a completely different project and built this.....



Build Thread on it if you’re interested ===> http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=499786&highlight=
 
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I would put a little money and time into a 30 before I built a 44...but we've discussed this in other threads. Very little advantage to a 44, 30s are very common and with a little bit of money you can make them nearly as strong or stronger.

I like the build on your axle, I didn't go quite as far with mine, but did some upgrades. Fore Wheeler also did a nice build on his 30 also.

If I was going to upgrade it would be a cut down 60 for true beef, but the money you have in that you can afford to bring a spare ring and pinion and swap it at the campground a few times...if it would even happen.

mac 'even if it is polishing a turdy' gyvr
 
I didn't want to spend another 100$ on Johnny Joints considering I have no issues with 7$ Moogs... so I got a sleeve from IRO and then opened up the Artec brackets (made to fit Johnny Joints) a little bit with the die grinder to get them to fit.

Worked pretty good....



Pulled the old...



And put in the new...



I am going to try to modify the JKS bracket to sit further to the back so I don't lose anymore steering then I have already.
 
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now that i see it on something other than my tiny phone screen...

your angles are off but your track bar and drag link are pretty close in length. hmm... throw your hubs on it and take if for a drive pete. i wonder if its tolerable. now, if you go with a drop pitman arm like we were talking so you can get your drag link as flat as possible, youll definitely need to rework the track bar.

your also bump stopped similarly to me... put it at full stuff and see if you can clear a lower trackbar bracket at the frame end. thatd keep you from using the JKS bracket or modifying your track bar.
 
I dig the artec stuff....thats a mighty fine turdy and some great craftsmanship.


but the money you have in that you can afford to bring a spare ring and pinion and swap it at the campground a few times...if it would even happen.

you and what ultra 4 pit team? :D ive done some crazy campground repairs but id rather be eating steaks and drinking beer. I threw money at her 30 for all the reasons you describe, parts everywhere and cheaper. i should have sucked it up and done the 44 build on the first round.....im ready to eat steaks and drink beer when i camp, and not fix the dana 30.
 
front d44s are a waste of time and money.

d30s can be apart before the hubs are off a d44 cause ya broke them...

we aren't talking about regearing to drive home, we are talking about regearing to go wheeling the next day.

mac 'go 60 or go home' gyvr
 
looks good man, I had no idea that some of those arts were that cheap. It has been a few years since I built up my (well, REWSTER's now) D30, but seeing those prices make me a bit interested in building another one if I ever get around to it....

Again, nice work and craftsmanship. :thumbup:
 
For the mids you do, I did those 2 years ago and used a flap disk to get it off, the fronts didn't have any to deal with. For the fronts I outligned and marked the holes and then hit just the spots I was welding at with a grinder.



Have plenty of soda pop on hand.... It also took me longer then I thought it would, but mine was also differnet due to my bumper and I also wanted to paint the whole wheel well, so that took some more time. Beefeing up the track bar mount and making the tie in plates to the mids also added more time but worth it IMO.

I decided that I am going to line-x or a similar undercoating for the whole underneath to reduce road noise
 
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