• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

4.6L stroker in the works

forced air heater. It does not matter how many leaks you have, we had to crack the garage open last time I was using one in a garage cause it got so warm. That was in Hky, NC a winter or two ago. They should be starting to go on sale at big lots about now.
 
I don't how the building's electrical would handle one... I only have lights.. no outlets... and right now i have one of those light socket adapter things for a sall halogen work light and for the drill when I prime the engine. Plus, that would take up a lot of room. although I did see one in the back of the shop at work.

But I used one for years and damn did it get toasty.
 
Nothing new here. I thought about taking my parts to another machine shop but I don't know of anyone local that has a good reputation besides Terry Walters in Roanoke. They a) didn't want to assemble my engine with my parts (although they weren't going to turn away machining it with my parts..wtf?) and b) they never returned my THREE phone calls for pricing. I don't care how good your rep is, but if you can't even return a call for pricing you don't get my business. Another thing odd is they acted like they recognized my name... which I can guarantee is impossible since I have never called them before and my name is quite scarce here.

I gave my current shop a date of 2/10/2009 that I would need my engine by. I don't think they are going to meet my given deadline, but as I said before I have dealt with them in the past and they top notch work. I also know that they are sloooow, so I was prepared for the wait. Really, since my last experience with a stroker motor I will wait for top notch work. Also, their engine assembly fee includes blue printing (which in my case is just the short block minus timing and cam), so I may have them do that too. They are truly decent people though. It is a small mom and pop store and I spent about 5 hours today just shooting the shit with the mom side, Sandy.

In other news while it is down I upgraded the wiring to 2 gauge marine wiring... which is nearly impossible to route with out the engine and accessories installed.. I found that the late model Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7L alternators won't fit for a swap as well (even with grinding the bracket and block as dome on older ZJ alts). So, I am looking at alternatives for a high amp alternator.

I also lost a bid by $2 (ending bid was $35, and I was at the machine shop a lot longer than I thought I would be) on a uses K&N w/o the heat shield.

-Chris
 
Hang in there Talyn - you'll get the short block eventually..
My old man has a couple sayings might be applicable here.
1.) You can do things cheap, fast or right. Pick two.
2.) Speed costs money. How fast do you want to go?
 
We started work on the engine on Saturday. I had originally intended to use the one size fits all lifter bore groover. After thinking hard about, looking at the tool I decided against it. 1) There is no way to set the blade's depth, 2) the way the 4.0L block is designed (lifters so far down) it would have been a pain to line it up, tighten it down and then cut (uses allen head screws to extend the locking foot and move the blade) 3) it was iffy at best. I purchased a comp cams Chrysler sized tool. from Northern Auto Parts (cheapest price I found) and we used that. Its very easy to use and control the depth. For those of you that haven't used it there is a set screw that connects to the back of the blade (which is double sided) to set the cutting depth. We got around .010" cut. As far as just pulling it thought the case block, that is a joke. I don't think the aluminum handle would take the forces needed to pull it though. I gave the machinist a hand as he tapped the tool with the end of a hammer and I pulled it though. I think the most resistance was from actually starting the cut. Some cuts came out slightly curved, but they started where they should be, which is the most important part, right above the center of the lobe. The job took all of 30 minutes including setting the blade depth. I'm happy with the results the tool gave so far. I plan on keeping it, but will probably rent it out for other people to use as I find it stupid to spend $130 for a tool that takes 30 minutes to use.

The real machining should start on Tuesday. The total price for boring, decking, freeze plug install, cam bearing install, install arp bolts, resize rods, cleaning, balancing and assembly and blue printing is $789.

-Chris
 
The head I am using was used for about 2000 miles on my previous pos stroker. I ported and polished it, 32* back cut valves, 3 angle valve job, Mopar Performance springs installed at 100# seat, Harland Sharp roller rockers.
 
Nice job.

Here's mine. I used the KB944's .030 over, 242 Rods and 258 crank. I also installed a Comp cam 68-231-4, for some low-end torque. I used Mopar Performance Springs, retainers and clips to overt spring bind due to the high lift and long duration. I've got the Ford 24lb injectors to provide fuel for the larger displacement.

Plenty of getupandgo!


3168126217_1eb26a2b84.jpg
 
how does the 242 rods and 258 crank work out for you? I have not seen much of that. I went with both rods and crank from the 258. I am looking to build another for my MJ (if it does not get some other random swap) and I am always looking at options. Got a build log somewhere you can link to?
 
Diamond-x said:
Nice job.

Here's mine. I used the KB944's .030 over, 242 Rods and 258 crank. I also installed a Comp cam 68-231-4, for some low-end torque. I used Mopar Performance Springs, retainers and clips to overt spring bind due to the high lift and long duration. I've got the Ford 24lb injectors to provide fuel for the larger displacement.
Click to expand...

Thats pretty much the same as mine
 
So far so good, I don't have many miles on it, and the KB944's were not a cheap alternative to the poor mans stroker. BTW, I decked the block approx .020" so I have +- .010 deck plus .043 gasket = .053 quench.
The low end torque is pretty wild, 0-40 mph is very quick.
I'm still waiting on tires so I can get a proper muffler installed.

Cheers!
 
Got a little question for you guys, I will be dropping in my 4.7L stroker in in a couple of weeks. But the question is what size exhaust are you guys running? I have chevy valves in the head, bee hive springs, roller rockers, clifford cam, KB hyper pistons, everything balanced within a gram. But, everyone that I have talked to about sizing exhaust and opinions on headers say they have no clue... I plan on running 93 octane initially, think the compression ratio will be about 10:1. What is your ratio and your type fuel?
 
Jeff, I think you will be fine with the setup you have. See if B can recommend a shop to bend you up a down pipe for a few bucks and run with it. Everything you have is 2.5 anyway is it not?

PS: I am working on scrounging together some gas money to bring the stroker down here so I may be meeting up with you when we head up that way next weekend.
 
Big problem. The machine shop had a crank lined up to buy from their supplier in .010"/.010". So I purchased .010/.010 Cleavite bearings. Notched the rod bearings and had them cryo treated. Today the machine shop tells me that the crank was sold buy the supplier to someone else after the salesman she used got fired. She just found this out last week. So, now I have no crank and I don't know if I will find a .010/.010 crank. I'll omit some choice vocabulary and uses these smilies instead. :flamemad::smsoap::smsoap::gonnablow:badpc:

Yeah, I'm a bit pissed considering that they had the parts since around Christmas and I have been asking her about the damn crank since. She told me about the sales man then she told me it should be shipped.
 
Standard Crankshafts do not have any, but they can turn yours for ONLY $224.30... right. Flat Lander Racing would have sold me a .010/.010 for $395.. from what they said "If it has to be 10-10" I would think they would have to have done some welding on it, or give up one of their best ones.

However, the machine shop's crank supplier got a new shipment in and one of them is 10/10. Hopefully this one actually goes to us.

A good crank is getting hard to find.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

cherokeefan_1
2000 4.0 build questions
Replies
5
Views
2K
75SV1
7
B
Help with recent engine swap
2
Replies
20
Views
2K
bigdaddyjlove
B
B
Started my 4.7 Stroker build today.
4 5 6
Replies
101
Views
11K
sidewaysstarion
sidewaysstarion
U
Budget build advice
Replies
7
Views
783
CJR
C
Jeepedo129
Comp Cams issues
2
Replies
21
Views
1K
RCP Phx
R
Back
Top