Your Oil Recomendation

Chevron Delo 400 15-40 and either a wix or mobil-1 filter is my choice. Been running it for 4 changes now. Oil pressure is great and the only real tapping I get is very light. But thats common on the 4.0. This is in my 89
 
have any of you guys noticed that shell rotella t is now API SM?

Does it matter since it's still technically diesel oil? I'd like to stay away from synthetic at this point, 150,000 mi but I'd like to get into something a little heavier than xW-30 oil b/c my oil pressure drops pretty low in warmer temps when at idle. After reading, and reading, and reading this thread, I think I want to try rotella t, but since it's SM now, is there a point? (note: I have found other diesel brands which are synthetic that are rated as API SL-but again I'd like to avoid going all synthetic right now)

Thanks
 
rockjockphatts said:
have any of you guys noticed that shell rotella t is now API SM?

Does it matter since it's still technically diesel oil? I'd like to stay away from synthetic at this point, 150,000 mi but I'd like to get into something a little heavier than xW-30 oil b/c my oil pressure drops pretty low in warmer temps when at idle. After reading, and reading, and reading this thread, I think I want to try rotella t, but since it's SM now, is there a point? (note: I have found other diesel brands which are synthetic that are rated as API SL-but again I'd like to avoid going all synthetic right now)

Thanks

Hmm... our local China*Mart has been out of it and the Mobil 1 HM for two weeks... I wondered if that is what was happening...
If you really want to stay with a dino, VatoZone has a house brand that is still SL rated..

But for Rotella to qualify for the SM rating the Zinc and Phosphorus numbers do have to be down.....
 
rockjockphatts said:
Is it all right to mix equal quantities of syn and dino (5w40 and 15w40) giving me 10w30 blend? Talking rotella t still here?

She's got 144,xxx turns on the odo

last oil change i did on my 89, i mixed 4 qts rotella syn 5-40 with 2 qts rotella 15-40. i dont see a problem with doing that.

i dont see how it would make 10-30. i see it making 10-40 blend
 
Checked the China Mart shelves today...

Rotella T Dino 15w-40 is now a API-SM oil....

Rotella T synth was still API-SL...
 
rockjockphatts said:
So does that mean that dino rotella t has lost many of the benefits that have been advertised on this site and others or is it still a good choice?
Depends on who you trust, or believe, but the answer is already in this thread if you read back far enough.

I for one no longer trust it, as there is just too much BS in the way the spec committee allowed the multi viscosity, multi purpose (diesel and gas engine applications) oils to claim they meet CJ-4 and SM in the same oil.

If it has SM anywhere on the bottle I won't tough the stuff.

Some of the stores like Autozone seem to bottling the old CH-4 diesel oils and the old SL oils under their own private labels! That is what I bought last week.

If I could use synthetics (my 4.0s eat synthetic as fast as gas), I probably would use Rotella synthetic, CH-4/SL in my diesel and gasser.
 
Ecomike said:
If it has SM anywhere on the bottle I won't touch the stuff.

I think you summed up all 16 pages of this thread right there :roll:
 
Ecomike said:
If I could use synthetics (my 4.0s eat synthetic as fast as gas), I probably would use Rotella synthetic, CH-4/SL in my diesel and gasser.


Are you saying that you are leaking the oil or burning it, or is it just magically disappearing? When I used Chevron 10w-30 dino oil, I never lost any, it was always full from when I put it in to when I was ready to change it. When I recently changed to Rotella synthetic, I had to add a pint before the next oil change, and it never leaked (that I could see) and never saw any smoke. That oil is magic indeed! LOL
 
88 Wagonman said:
Are you saying that you are leaking the oil or burning it, or is it just magically disappearing?
YES!

88 Wagonman said:
When I used Chevron 10w-30 dino oil, I never lost any, it was always full from when I put it in to when I was ready to change it. When I recently changed to Rotella synthetic, I had to add a pint before the next oil change, and it never leaked (that I could see) and never saw any smoke. That oil is magic indeed! LOL
There was no smoke, and even after I fixed the 1 quart per 200 mile leaks that the synthetic caused, It still magically made 1 quart per 500 miles disapear after I fixed all the leaks it created. She has 253,000 miles on her, 87. And that was 20W50 synthetic (blend, Castrol IIRC)!

I found some old SL Havoline 20W50 stock 3 months ago, that is working much better than anything else I have tried in this engine. It is also giving me 5 more PSI at hot idle than Exxon (or Quaker State) 20W50 was giving me. I was down to 11 psi hot idle 2 years ago, and had knocks or clicketty claky noises, sometimes both. After pulling the oil pan and installing a high flow oil pump, and new crank bearings (which were not really needed yet, but replaced them any way, and the P-rod bearings still looked new), I got up to about 20 psi hot idle with 20W50 Exxon, with 1 quart of MMO & 1 quart of Lucas. This past three months, and last week with fresh oil I am holding 29 PSI hot idle at 500 rpm in drive, using 5 quarts of the old Havoline 20W50 API SL, plus 1 quart of Lucas. Cold oil Pressure is 59 psi. It is only using about 1 quart of oil slowly over 3000 miles now. Also, it meet the latest EPA gestapo inspection here in Houston and was at less than 5% of all the limits on the exhaust. The spark plugs have 20,000 miles on them, platinum, and still look brand new.

The synthetic did clean up some of the sludge in the engine and helped clean the sticking lifters, but MMO helped with that at the same time.

I used Shell Rotella T, 15W40 for 4 years in my diesel, but started buying other brands that still show CH-4/SL only and not CJ-4/SM on the label for my diesel. I have not been able to find any old Rotella T, 15W40 in nearly a year now.

By the way, that is not fare, you have TWO 87 Wagoneers!

How do you like the Commander?
 
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rockjockphatts said:
What about castrol gtx high milage, that is still SL rated
Last I saw today in pep boiyz was that all the gtx hi mi was all SM. I picked up gtx diesel 15-40 which is CH-4/SL rated. The only things I saw there that were SL were the diesel oils, royal purple, some weights of dino qstate, and a few castrol syns. I went in looking for m1 15-50, but they only had it in full syn (6.50/qt) and it was SM :eek:. the dino shell rotella was all SM as well.

this is one of the best most informative threads i've read on any jeep site btw. :cheers:
 
the stuff I found was still SL rated, perhaps they've been slow to move product...

I guess the bigger question is, am I better off running the castrol or even a store brand (generic-but not walmart's) that is SL rated over a brand name which is SM. i would also like to not run full synthetic, primarily due to costs and cost of replacing seals which are found to be leaking. I know they'll need replacing eventually, just don't want to do it now.

However, I have considered mixing 15w40 rotella t and 5w40syn rottella t in a mixture biased towards the dino (15w40) for the above preference of dino oil over syn. Now I know there is nothing wrong with synthetic, I'd just prefer to stick with more dino b/c I know I'll end up with a slick driveway. Does that sound like a better idea? WHat do ya'll think...
 
Georgia boy said:
have any of yall had any problems with ur jeep going through oil like crazy, i cant figure it out but im bettin it is the valve cover gasket

what 4.0 doesnt leak oil from either the rms, valve cover, or oil filter adapter?
 
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