Your Oil Recomendation

[BIGSLVRXJ]

I would never buy the 'blended' dino/synth, if I was going to run a blend I'd buy 3 quarts of dino and 3 quarts of synthetic and 'mix my own' the oil companies won't tell you what the ratio is on their blends, gee, wonder why...

Oh, that's not the reason I buy it, it's more just because it's Valvoline (a brand that my Dad has used in his cars for years and I've used in mine) and for higher mileage. The semi-synthetic factor doesn't really impress me. At my next change I think I'm switching to full synthetic at any rate, but after you made that point, the blend is especially unappealing :banghead:. Good thinking Rich, sometimes it is much better to have someone point out even the most obvious points.

 

[BillBraski]

Mobil 1 HM 10w-40 has 1000 PPM, Turbo Diesel Truck 5w-40 is 1300 PPM. The only 1600 PPM oil is at the very bottom and they are for a V-Twin motorcycle.

For the poster that wanted fact, here ya go. All the Mobil 1 info you need. (Its a PDF with 2 pages)



http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf

 

[BillBraski]

Oh, I forgot to tell you guys to read the fine print at the bottom of page 2, it says the phosphorus levels in the Turbo Truck oil will be reduced to 1100 PPM soon.

 

[Stumpalump]

The original poster asked me what the numbers on the oil meant so here goes in the simplest terms that I can understand: They take a base moter oil and pour it into a funnel at about 200 degress. It pours thru in 10 seconds so it's a 10 weight. Thicker oil like 50 weight pours thru in 50 seconds. The W in 10W30 means winter. It has an addative package to make it flow better than a 10 would when it's extra cold. To get the 30 they add stuff that thickens it when it's real hot so it flows like a 30 weight would when hot. So a 15w50 will be a 15weight oil with stuff to make it flow like a 15 when extra cold and slower like a 50 would when hot. Racers like straight weight oil because it they want the perfect weight when they operate it at racing temp plus the addatives are not pure oil and some claim they reduce lubrication qualitys of the oil. Synthetic needs less addatives because it flows better than regulat oil at a wider range of temperatures.

 

[RichP]

Oh, that's not the reason I buy it, it's more just because it's Valvoline (a brand that my Dad has used in his cars for years and I've used in mine) and for higher mileage. The semi-synthetic factor doesn't really impress me. At my next change I think I'm switching to full synthetic at any rate, but after you made that point, the blend is especially unappealing :banghead:. Good thinking Rich, sometimes it is much better to have someone point out even the most obvious points.

When I was wandering around auto zone today I noticed the 4 quart castrol syn blend sitting right below the castrol full syntec, price difference was $2. Then the quarts of the blend were sitting under the quarts of the castrol syn, did the math, what a rip off. Two quarts of plain castrol and two quarts of syntec were cheaper than the the 4 quarts of dino/syn blended stuff.

Yea, I know but my wife has also gotten me into looking for and using coupons, hence almost every store I walk into now a days I'm just 'ok, wheres the circular so I can see whats on sale', paid off, they also had a 2 for 1 sale on Chevron fuel systems cleaner 20oz size so I bought 4 I now see the usefulness of that card box she carries around when we go shopping....it's full of coupons.

 

[tkjeeper]

Wow, quite a thread! Great info, and it seems from very qualified people. Sometimes I feels so inadequate. LOL. I'm still a newbie all in all compared to you guys. I switched to quaker state Q full syn 2 yrs ago and noticed a 10% increase in fuel economy. I am a firefighter and wanted something I didn't have to let warm up before I could run and gun to a fire call at 2 am when it's -20C, with a oversized KN oil filter. I am switching next change in the spring to Mobil 1 extended performance. It's very available up here, and I'm glad to be educated on this forum. Sure I'd like to be able to run amsoil or royal purple but the difference in price doesn't justify it. I'm embarassed I don't know but does anyone know the zddp's of the quaker state Q 10w30 and have I been doing an injustice to my engine using it?

 

[Stumpalump]

Wow, quite a thread! Great info, I'm embarassed I don't know but does anyone know the zddp's of the quaker state Q 10w30 and have I been doing an injustice to my engine using it?

I like you enthusiasm to learn and thats cool you think of your own special reqirments when setting up your jeep for whats best. I'll let you in on a secret for when you want to find out info on a product thats part of a huge corporation like Quaker State or Mobil. You want the ZDDP level of Quakerstate but you may just get a sales pich or a generic response if you call so what you do is go to their site and search for MSDS. That stands for material safty data sheet. You know that because your a firefighter. Listed on MSDS will be a direct phone number to a person or department that is in the know of what the product has in it and what it can and can't do. When I called the number on the Mobil oil MSDS I basically called their engineering lab directly and is why I got such good info about their Mobil 1 oil. You can do it for any product and you will ussually get sombody so far away from sales and marketing that you can get straight talk in plain english. I know the Quaker state is Pennsylvania and for 100 years it was common knowledge that the best lubricating oils came from Pennsylvania crude.Today I don't know. But there you have the best way to find out and some ussless old oil trivia to boot. Good luck and post up if you get any good info from Quaker State.

 

[BillBraski]

Wow, quite a thread! Great info, and it seems from very qualified people. Sometimes I feels so inadequate. LOL. I'm still a newbie all in all compared to you guys. I switched to quaker state Q full syn 2 yrs ago and noticed a 10% increase in fuel economy. I am a firefighter and wanted something I didn't have to let warm up before I could run and gun to a fire call at 2 am when it's -20C, with a oversized KN oil filter. I am switching next change in the spring to Mobil 1 extended performance. It's very available up here, and I'm glad to be educated on this forum. Sure I'd like to be able to run amsoil or royal purple but the difference in price doesn't justify it. I'm embarassed I don't know but does anyone know the zddp's of the quaker state Q 10w30 and have I been doing an injustice to my engine using it?

Thats very cold, I'd use a 5w30 for easy starts. Back to topic. Look at the API service on the back of the oil container. Example: SM is the standard. I'd stay away from it becuase the ZDDP is not a factor due to the EPA mandate to remove zinc.

API SL is the oil you might find is best (Mobil 1 High Millage!), QuakerState Q 10w30 is API SJ, but I have no idea as to the ZDDP levels. If anyone is looking for a EOS (GM) type additive from your dealerships, look into the Ford EOS equivalent. A friend told me about it, I'm gonna look into it soon.

 

[RichP]

One of the things that bugs me no end is the oils that say meets SL/SM standards, if SL calls for a certain level of zinc/ZDDP, etc and SM calls for none how can it meet both, what, it's got some kind of 'smart bottle' that identifies your engine as you pour and holds the additives back if it's got rollers,sheesh, same with the GL3,4.5 and 6. These companies are getting as bad as our politicians, lying thru their teeth.

 

[javajeep]

I am switching next change in the spring to Mobil 1 extended performance.

Note that "high mileage" is NOT the same as "extended performance." You want "high mileage." You do NOT want "extended performance." IMHO.

 

[solditforajeep]

extended performance just means you can go longer in between oil changes, I still dont get that philosophy. Ya maybe a few thousand more, the oil wont break down but the engine still makes deposits and things get in there from gas etc. But 15,000 miles, thats more than a year of driving for me. Any oil I use, Ill go 3-5 thou max.

 

[RyanM]

Wow . The turbo diesel formulation will have to drop the phosphorus(the only way to drop this 'catalyst harmer' is to drop the main thing it is apart of) when Delvac1 goes to CJ4-SM ! Anything over 1000ppm zinc is okay in my mind! Today's new diesal 2007 motors have to work hader and run hotter, so to me, that seem's like a good oil to use in my junk.

The EP is basically mobil-1 with more of moly and boron, still no ZDDP at flat tap cam levels. You can run it longer, because they claim it will suspend more soot, but once that little gap is closed, it's over.

They stopped making SJ oils a long time ago, so the bottles of QUaker you are seeing are OLD.

I'd stay away from it becuase the ZDDP is not a factor due to the EPA mandate to remove zinc

Oh, I forgot to tell you guys to read the fine print at the bottom of page 2, it says the phosphorus levels in the Turbo Truck oil will be reduced to 1100 PPM soon.

Zinc is the stuff we want! phosphorus is just a way to get it into form for oil (Zinc dialkyl dithio phosphate)

 

[FoMoCo]

One of the things that bugs me no end is the oils that say meets SL/SM standards, if SL calls for a certain level of zinc/ZDDP, etc and SM calls for none how can it meet both, what, it's got some kind of 'smart bottle' that identifies your engine as you pour and holds the additives back if it's got rollers,sheesh, same with the GL3,4.5 and 6. These companies are getting as bad as our politicians, lying thru their teeth.

x2, and WTF is with rotella 15-40 having the SM rating now?? noticed that when I was dumping it in my ford the other day :smsoap:

good thread though, and as much as I detest y'all mart I'm definately switching my heep to the rotella 5-40 syn @ $16/gal

 

[RyanM]

Only look at the CJ-4 Rating. It has Boron now, and approx. 1200 ppm zinc and 1100 ph. Out of the factory. Shell's 'testing' showed better wear than the previous Cl-4 + oil. I don't know how the system works but the SM only means it was tested in their series of wear/fuel economy/emissions for current gasoline cars etc, and passed.

This oil is made for all day long HD truck usage

People also run it in their bikes' with good result as well, although, it's not JASO certified.

Fount it. CJ4/SM

 

[FoMoCo]

awesome, thanks for the info atriot:

 

[Muad'Dib]

I just called Mobil on behalf of . It got me to the top that way. I told the engineer what we do,what engine we use and our concerned about our flat tappet cams. He was very clear and consise on recomendations for us and this is what I got from him with a backing from his team members: ZDDP levels are highest in these 4 oils:

15W-50 extended drain 1300-1400 ppm ZDDP. best oil and their 1st choice.

15W-50 regular mobil 1 Thats the good old stuff they brought back with the red top and has same ZDDP.

Turbo 5-40 but only if you are constantly below zero. He said use 15W50 for me in Colorado winters.

Moble delvac 15w40 is also above 1000 ppm ZDDP and will work.

Anything else will have less than 1000 ppm ZDDP and is not recomended by them!

I have a similar call into Royal Purple and left a detailed message as to what they have and recomend for us. I'll post up when they call back. Mobil 1 is nice because you get it at walmart but remember to look for the red cap 15W50 or 15W50 extended drain unless you are in a frozen below zero climate and then use the turbo 5W40.

Mobil 1 Extended drain??

Extended drain as in Extended Performance?

 

[UNCC_99XJ]

$28 at Walmart ? dont buy the 6 packs, get the 5 quart container, $20, get 6 of them THEN get a six pack. Thats two years of oil there... I just did three of mine this weekend, time for another wally world stop.. I'm down to 7 jugs and three filters.

Ahhhhhh.....So YOU are the reason why every time I walk into wal mart to buy M1 they're out!:laugh3:

 

[Stumpalump]

Mobil 1 Extended drain??

Extended drain as in Extended Performance?

Yea thats it Extended performance.

 

[solditforajeep]

well just got back from Walmart, I forgot to get the extended drain, and ended up with the regular 15w50, now does that have the same stuff to help seals from leaking oil? If not I may return it for the extend drain, but I would imgagine its got the stuff.

I also got a Mopar oil filter, they were out of Mobil 1 filters.

 

[Stumpalump]

If the oil you have has a red top then it's good but none of the oils recomended to us by Mobil have seal swell in them to stop leaks. Buy an addative that says oil stop leak and dump it in later.