Year/Make/Model of 8.8 donor?

[kastein]

The flange you need to make the driveshaft bolt up is a spicer 2-2-1379, various parts houses stock them. I also pulled one from a Ranger I found in the junkyard, not sure what year. You might need to shorten your stock driveshaft to fit, I'm honestly not sure, I seem to recall a 35 to 8.8 swap not requiring that.

Looks like if the ebrake cables from the explorer are in good shape and have the ferrules on the ends still, you should be able to adapt it to fit the late model XJ setup, not sure. I know I was able to use two long-side explorer ebrake cables to make my ZJ disc swap on my MJ work, they were both way too long but I found creative ways to route them to take up the slack. Crown Auto also makes an e-brake cable kit that you can use for the swap IIRC.

 

[Tacedaddy]

Just did a 98 8.8 swap for my stock 35

I got my stock ebrake cables to work just fine with a cable U-bolt on the axle side
any ford ranger or i believe Aerostar will have the correct flange you need or you can just buy the adapter Universal joint. I used one off of a ranger as well.

If you have a couple inches of lift your stock driveshaft will work just fine

 

[Cottontail]

any ford ranger or i believe Aerostar will have the correct flange you need or you can just buy the adapter Universal joint. I used one off of a ranger as well.

That is not accurate. There are 2 sizes of flanges that Ford used. You need to measure them before you just buy and grab. They are about 1/4 inch different in width where the u-joint sits.

 

[kastein]

yeah, it really depends. I bought one off a Grand Marquis on advise from a friend and it turned out to be a 1330 size flange, the same as the explorer the 8.8 came from.

Then I bought one out of a Crown Vic based off advise from here and it turned out to be a 1330 as well. Hey, I never said I learned, did I? :gee:

Then I was in a yard hundreds of miles from home and needed other parts off a Ranger driveshaft, happened to find one lying on the ground, and noticed that it had the flange I'd been looking for the whole time on it. So I bought the whole thing.

 

[5-Speed XJ]

did this swap also with a ax-15 you'll need a longer driveshaft i went through tomkin for a rear stainless-braided flex line and currie for the rubber lines to the calipers and mounts http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/builderrj60.aspx?id=1519&p=36.9500

 

[Tacedaddy]

That is not accurate. There are 2 sizes of flanges that Ford used. You need to measure them before you just buy and grab. They are about 1/4 inch different in width where the u-joint sits.

dont know what ford rangers you are looking at but i have never seen one with a 1330 joint in the junkyard... granted i havent looked at an offroad or tow package model but if it has an 8.8 and its 2wd you should be good to go, or like i said just grab one off an Aerostar

 

[DougJ]

I just did this swap in my '01.

I got the wrong flange adapter off a ranger at the JY, at least it was free... Picked up a Spicer 2-2-1379 at 4WP for about $30.

I used the vent tube / extended brake line off my 8.25, new (straight, bent 'em to fit) hard lines and two right side explorer soft lines. Same wrap and clamp set-up on the emergency brake that I used on the 8.25.

For brackets I went to RuffStuff, and had them swap in side mount shock brackets instead of the top mounts that they show on the web site since I'm not running much lift. Awesome service and parts from RuffStuff BTW.

I don't remember where I got the data, but the door sticker codes are:

43 Open 3200 3.08
41 Open 3200 3.27
42 Open 4.10
46 Open 3.73
45 Open 3200 3.55
D4 Limited Slip 3200 3.73
D2 Limited Slip 4.10
L73 Limited Slip 3.73

The axle tag should have 3L73 if it's a D4 or L73 3.73 LS, (mine had D4 on the door and 3L73 on the tag) and I think you'll see a 4L10 for the D2.

Great swap, good luck!

 

[kastein]

dont know what ford rangers you are looking at but i have never seen one with a 1330 joint in the junkyard... granted i havent looked at an offroad or tow package model but if it has an 8.8 and its 2wd you should be good to go, or like i said just grab one off an Aerostar

... afaik the rangers had 7.5" rears not 8.8s.

edit: it's as usual more complicated than that http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Axles.html

 

[jeepdreamer]

Took these pics of my "new" to me 8.8s flange. Is anyone able to look at the pics and say which size I have and which new yolk I need to order to work with the XJ?

Sorry I'm not sure where I need to measure from so I just kinda guessed.

 

[kastein]

http://www.actionmachineinc.com/ujointmeasuringguide.aspx

You want dimension E on the first picture - just from ujoint cap to ujoint cap, not including the lip of the flange. It can be annoying to measure.

 

[jeepdreamer]

Ah... Cool. Thank you So much kastein! I'll have to wait until next Sat to measure it unless I get off work early in during the day. I'll come back with a number and hopefully can get the right size one coming.
I also found a mountaineer in the JY but its just as rough and has 3.55 gears. But it does have all the brake stuff to look at. I see what ya'll mean about the odd ball drivers side flex line! So if I order two passenger side ones and run hard line between them with the facotry XJ splitter thingy between, will that work?

 

[kastein]

Should work just fine, that's what I planned on doing myself.

The "easy way" to tell a 1330 from a 1310 is by comparing the spacing of the bearing cap seals to the cross - the 1330s have the same size cap, it's just spaced further from the cross. Let me see if I can find some pics...

EDIT: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BRN-74039/?rtype=10 has pics.

You can see that the 1330 spaced caps (a conversion joint has 2 opposite caps spaced as if it was a 1310, and the other 2 spaced as if it was a 1330) have more trunnion length between the cap seal and the cross than the 1310 spaced caps. It's not 100% reliable as some ujoint makers have different size trunnions, but almost every junkyard axle is going to have factory ujoints in place still and I've never had this method fail when comparing factory ujoints.

 

[Cottontail]

Here are pictures of the 2 flange sizes. The one on top is the size that fits on the XJ.

You can see in that photo that the "crosshairs" or whatever you want to call them are set into the flange base a little bit. The bottom one measures just shy of 4" from outside to outside of the "crosshairs." The top one measures just shy of 3 1/2".

Here is another shot side by side. The large one is flat on the workbench, while the smaller one (the one we use) is tilted against it, resting so as to see the difference in width of the "crosshairs."

Hope this helps.

 

[jeepdreamer]

It should be a lot of help! Thank you so much! I'll post up later with what I find but it won't be until the end of the week probably. Thanks again MUCHO!

 

[souske]

conversion joint?

 

[GordoSmasho]

I know it's not a cheap fix but you can also order a 1310 pinion yoke for the 8.8. It's a good idea if you want your front and read shafts to match. Then you only need one trail spare. Having to swap that flange adapter if you broke a shaft on the trail would be a pain.


Edit: thought for sure there was a company making 1310 8.8 pinion yokes. Another option for the seanario I listed earlier with having matching drivelines and swapping flanges. You can change your front Dana 30 yoke to a 1350 and 1330 to match a 1330 or 1350 rear yoke that you can get for the 8.8. Then you would have matching front and rear with conversion ujoints.

Maybe I'm making it too complicated. But if I can have a ready fix on the trail I will spend the extra time in the shop getting it prepaired.

 

[GordoSmasho]

By the way that was a proposed option to add to the discussion not a proven solution. I would like to know if this is a viable solution as it seems a valuable time saver.

 

[kastein]

there is - it was mentioned a while ago by myself and others, dana spicer part number 2-2-1379. Also available under some rangers in the junkyard, etc.

 

[jeepdreamer]

So to me it seems a little easier to just order the replacement 1310 yolk. Zip off the flange and install the yolk with a new seal maybe? Is one better or easier than the other? Reasoning?

 

[souske]

The flange is less likely to break