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XJ Procrack swaybar

bummer man. how about flexing it out on something like a wall or ramp just to see how balanced it is?
 
If you were to drill more mounting holes in the ends of your arms, you could adjust your leverage on the torsion bar. And aside from unbolting/rebolting every time, I wonder if one could devise a quicker adjusting arrangement.
 
Would you wheel this :rattle:

WVFire.jpg



Don't answer that.
I just heard the area may be closed past Oct 15th so I don't know when Ill be wheeling next.

Heck ya! You could wheel at night and not even need your headlights!
 
bummer man. how about flexing it out on something like a wall or ramp just to see how balanced it is?

Good idea, after it's moving again ill try to do this.

If you were to drill more mounting holes in the ends of your arms, you could adjust your leverage on the torsion bar. And aside from unbolting/rebolting every time, I wonder if one could devise a quicker adjusting arrangement.

Eventually that's the plan, just like all the other off-road sway bars. I estimated the preliminary arm length based off of feedback from another XJ owner with the Rock Equipment setup.
 
what's holding those arms on besides the 2 welds?
keystock isn't the best idea, i don't know how many times i've had those things loosen up and spit out on low hp electric motors.
 
Anyone built their own that uses a single locking hub, like the skyjacker unit?

All that is is a fancy disconnect. The idea behind this is that the swaybar is always working. Just like antirock.
 
what's holding those arms on besides the 2 welds?
keystock isn't the best idea, i don't know how many times i've had those things loosen up and spit out on low hp electric motors.
You talking straight bore sieves/sprockets? Apparently you are not familiar with a taper lock bushings and how they work or you are not installing them properly.

Nice, what bar did you use? Any chance you have more pics, it's hard to tell how it assembles.

1/2 ton Silverado 1-7/16 OD tortion bar and needs tuning(turned down) for off road use or disconnected. Pictures, na, I keep killing cameras, sorry. What do you want to know?
 
You talking straight bore sieves/sprockets? Apparently you are not familiar with a taper lock bushings and how they work or you are not installing them properly.
i am familiar with them, i have a machine shop and they are on several machines for both spindle and axis drives. key stock is soft, they shear and deform in high torque/high impact situations. i'd be more worried about that weld though.
 
i am familiar with them, i have a machine shop and they are on several machines for both spindle and axis drives. key stock is soft, they shear and deform in high torque/high impact situations. i'd be more worried about that weld though.
Your key slot is poorly machined (off center and or too deep)or the bushing is improperly installed if you are having problems. A loose fitting key will deform. A properly sized key, machined key slot and taper bushing will not.
it'll be fine.
 
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