XJ/MJ weights and dieting

No REAL weight on the seats. But I know seats with power are close to 35+ lbs. Seats with out frames are about 15sh lbs. I know that my new racing seats are about 5 lbs each with the covers and padding.

I am going to be wieghing my rig within a month, cuz its almost done :laugh3: but I we are guessing that will all the glass gone and all the metal and carpet and seats, etc. Going to be less than stock! Which is AWSOME.

Brett have you thought about getting a lexan rear window for the truck? That will do quite a bit to drop the weight.

matt
 
Scrappy said:
Brett have you thought about getting a lexan rear window for the truck? That will do quite a bit to drop the weight.

matt


I am going to take the rear glass out early this summer when I take the doors off. I am seriously debating never putting the doors and glass back on but if the rear window does get put back in it will definitely be with lexan. However I read (earlier in this thread?) that an XJ rear glass only weighs 12 pounds, so I will probably only save 9-10 pounds by changing, I woulda hoped for more.

I will be AMAZED if you can keep yours to stock weight. tube, axles and tires add up FAST.
 
Scrappy said:
No REAL weight on the seats. But I know seats with power are close to 35+ lbs. Seats with out frames are about 15sh lbs. I know that my new racing seats are about 5 lbs each with the covers and padding.


matt

No way. Even w/o power, I guarantee front seats weigh around 40lbs. 5lb race seats? Somebody lied to you...
 
Well, you could have 5lb race seats. But that's if they're full carbon fiber/ kevlar units, and you shelled out $2K+ for the pair. So I take that back.
 
They are poly seats. I can look at shipping weight, but I am almost darn sure it was right around 5lbs maybe 10lbs. But with my memory, who the hell knows! I just know that they weight SOOOOOOOOO much less than stockers. I can weight them saturday to get an exact thing.

Stock is what.. 4600ish lbs? I really dont know what is it going to be, but I would be willin to bet that I have lost more than I have gained.

Edit to bretts post: :scared: 4000lbs! wow ok... dem tings are light! Never looked for the exact number before. oops.
 
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Scrappy said:
They are poly seats. I can look at shipping weight, but I am almost darn sure it was right around 5lbs maybe 10lbs. But with my memory, who the hell knows! I just know that they weight SOOOOOOOOO much less than stockers. I can weight them saturday to get an exact thing.

Stock is what.. 4600ish lbs? I really dont know what is it going to be, but I would be willin to bet that I have lost more than I have gained.
I really don't think any package of XJ/MJ broke over 4000 pounds and I'm pretty sure some packages (4cyl, 2wd) broke under 3000.
 
I've weighed 3 of our rigs so far.

All with me on board (approx 175lbs)
- '89 MJ 2.5 5spd 2wd: 3200lbs
- '89 MJ 4.0 t-flite 4wd with plow gear but no blade: 3600lbs
- '91 XJ 4.0 AW4 4wd no rear seats: 3500lbs

Haven't weighed the '89 XJ Limited but I'm betting it's a fat pig, probably close to 3800lbs.
 
tchase said:
I've weighed 3 of our rigs so far.

All with me on board (approx 175lbs)
- '89 MJ 2.5 5spd 2wd: 3200lbs
- '89 MJ 4.0 t-flite 4wd with plow gear but no blade: 3600lbs
- '91 XJ 4.0 AW4 4wd no rear seats: 3500lbs

Haven't weighed the '89 XJ Limited but I'm betting it's a fat pig, probably close to 3800lbs.
are the MJs long-bed or short? does the 4.0 MJ have a lift or bigger tires? any guess on how much the plow gear weighs?
 
Mine prolly weighs right about 3000lbs. Light, huh?
 
Paul S said:
Don't know the weight of a leaf pack, but I'll bet you could cut over 50lbs converting to coils.

Paul

Yeah, that's exactly what Brett wants to hear.......

I think that might be where he draws the line, no way he's giving up his beloved leaf springs! :)
 
since leaves act as the spring and the locator, i think they may actually have the advantage in light weight. problem is, if you need more axle control than you have to add control arms to leaves anyway. a bare leaf spring setup i think would be less weight at the expense of axle hop. coils with control arms can get pretty heavy. especially when running 5 links like the chero front setup.
 
I'll weigh my control arms tonight. My guess is that 1 UCA + 1 LCA + 1 coil spring is about 30lbs.
I'm not going to weigh my leaf springs, but I know they're awfully heavy, probably 60 - 70lbs a side.
A good set of leaf springs will easily control axle wrap without a traction bar.

Paul
 
XJZ said:
Yeah, that's exactly what Brett wants to hear.......

I think that might be where he draws the line, no way he's giving up his beloved leaf springs! :)
actually you're only half right :D

I am 95% sure I will be doing a triagulated 3 link in the rear next month, though I still have no complaints about the leafs up front. Links in the rear will get rid of axle wrap and flex more where it's needed most (IMO). It is also much easier to do a quality link suspension in the rear of an MJ than the front.

I've read that the 4-leaf 63" Chevy leafs weigh 75 pounds each pack, my 57" springs are not much shorter and have several more (but thinner) leafs, so I'm guessing they are at least 60 pounds each. Doing some rough calculations I think I would loose anywhere from 50 to 80 pounds by going to coils in the rear (weight of coils + links), plus I can chop some more frame off and loose even more.

(If anyone is wondering why I would do something as bass-ackwards as changing an MJ from front coil/rear leaf to front leaf/rear coil read this and if you still have questions then ask: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=140080 )
 
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BrettM said:
details? and "prolly" based on what? go weight it



According to autotrader.com, 94 4 door RWD Country curb weight is 2928lbs. Add whatever for the AW4 over AX-15. Subtract gas tank skid, all carpets, lighter steering wheel, lighter exhaust, no spare, no jack, no jack mount, no ABS, and other random small weight reduction, and I'm sure I'm close. Until I weigh it though, "prolly" is all I should say.
 
BrettM said:
actually you're only half right :D

I am 95% sure I will be doing a triagulated 3 link in the rear next month, though I still have no complaints about the leafs up front. Links in the rear will get rid of axle wrap and flex more where it's needed most (IMO). It is also much easier to do a quality link suspension in the rear of an MJ than the front.


)

You should have left the suspension well enough alone and just drive the trails in reverse (and as an added bonus when driving in reverse, you wouldn't need some fancy gizmo to keep your AW4 from upshifting. :) ).
 
some more ideas, aftermarket steering wheel, non-tilt column vs tilt column, hood latch assembly vs. hood pins, remove the bed (if you still have it), tail lights (trail rig only isnt it?).
I know this is all little stuff, but it adds up...
I need to head to the landfill... they have a nice scale there...
 
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