XJ/MJ weights and dieting

BrettM said:
how much does yours weigh Paul? I know you've been pretty weight focused...

The D44 will have to stay, it's geared, ARBed, steering done, hydro-assist, etc. The only real consideration I had with the front axle was to put a Toy center-section in with my D44 outers (D44 shafts work in Toy side-gears). It's still a thought I'm kicking around to save probably 40 pounds, better clearance, swapable thirds with the rear, ability to run 5.29s... but that might be a little too much Toyota in a Jeep :D


Wow that pretty cool, didn't think you could do that in a 44, but like U said U are pretty commited to the 44 with whats in it.
Troy
 
BrettM said:
how much does yours weigh Paul? I know you've been pretty weight focused...

The D44 will have to stay, it's geared, ARBed, steering done, hydro-assist, etc. The only real consideration I had with the front axle was to put a Toy center-section in with my D44 outers (D44 shafts work in Toy side-gears). It's still a thought I'm kicking around to save probably 40 pounds, better clearance, swapable thirds with the rear, ability to run 5.29s... but that might be a little too much Toyota in a Jeep :D

I try not to worry about weight:)
Mine weighs just under 3800lbs with a full tank of gas, full size spare tire, spare parts (front axles, steering junk, fluds, etc...). The only places I can think of too lose more weight is my stereo, center consol, & make a lighter front winch bumper.

I've also been thinking about building a Toy Hi8/44. Great clearance, hi pinion, light weight, good for 37's, easy to fit under the front end. Only problem is that it will cost 4,000 + $.

Paul
 
Paul S said:
I've also been thinking about building a Toy Hi8/44. Great clearance, hi pinion, light weight, good for 37's, easy to fit under the front end. Only problem is that it will cost 4,000 + $.

Paul

$4000!? I'm guessing that's with all the goodies, alloy shafts, CTMs, Crane knuckles, hi-pinion, ARB, etc.

I figure I'd reuse all my D44 stuff including stock shafts, I'd probably loose $1-200 in selling my D44 gears and ARB and buying a Toy third (low-pinion) geared with ARB. Then it's just a matter of getting everything all lined up perfectly and welded together, that's where it gets complicated in my mind.
 
okay, I took the bathroom scale outside and had a little fun :D

35x12.50r15 MTR, 70% tread, on 15x10 steel wheel with 5 golf-balls inside = 92 pounds

same MTR unmounted = 57 pounds (therefore 15x10 steel wheel = 35)

33x12.50r15 BFG LongTrail (very similar to AT) on 15x8 steel wheel = 69 pounds

Door with manual window and door locks = 52 pounds


Anybody got a weight for the rear glass? MJ preferred, but XJ rear glass is probably really close.
 
Re: XJ/MJ weights and dieting 15X8 Canyon=21#

a 15X8 canyon weighs 21 lbs but won't have the backspace you need.
 
BrettM said:
$4000!? I'm guessing that's with all the goodies, alloy shafts, CTMs, Crane knuckles, hi-pinion, ARB, etc.

Exactly, + a custom high clearance, hex housing.

Figure 1500 for the HP 3rd with ARB, 600 for inner/outer axles, 900 for the housing with Crane inner knuckles. That's $3000 right there, & I still need everything form the outer knuckles out.

Paul
 
How about losing the stock fuel tank and use a fuel cell?Aluminum racing seats will save weight also.Get rid of the leafs and use links with coilovers or airshox.I'm hoping mine will be around 3000 when it's done,MJ buggy with long arms and Fox airshox front and rear.
 
I like where the stock fuel tank is mounted (good for COG) and it might be a pain to get a fuel-cell to mount well there, it's a thought though.

Seats are deffinitely a consideration.

Coilovers and definitely air-shocks are lighter than leafs, but factor 1.75 x.120 upper links and 2" x.375 lower links, and leafs probably come out lighter. Besides, that's a LOT of time and money and I'm very happy with my leafs.
 
i dont mean to hijack the thread but is it alright to run doorless? Do you have any braces or anything? I was thinking of making some half/removable doors this winter for my MJ but i dont want it too bend in half.
 
I'm in the same boat you are with trying to reduce weight on my CJ. I am at 3520 with a 4.0l, AW4, 300, 30/44, 37" Krawlers, alum 17x8s, leaf springs. We are very similar with my cage equal to your roof and back wall and my winch to your bumper.
Something you might consider is simplify your rear frame with tube instead. Also do you really need a spare tire? Carry a plug kit and you already have oba.

Somthing you have to consider is you can't compare it to buggy weights, because it's not a buggy. Try to find other rig's weights that are built similar.
 
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cccj said:
I'm in the same boat you are with trying to reduce weight on my CJ. I am at 3520 with a 4.0l, AW4, 300, 30/44, 37" Krawlers, alum 17x8s, leaf springs. We are very similar with my cage equal to your roof and back wall and my winch to your bumper.
Something you might consider is simplify your rear frame with tube instead. Also do you really need a spare tire? Carry a plug kit and you already have oba.

Somthing you have to consider is you can't compare it to buggy weights, because it's not a buggy. Try to find other rig's weights that are built similar.
I've thought about tubing the rear frame, I'm sure it will come someday, but not yet. I've also thought of not carrying a spare, just a plug kit, but I think instead I'm going to get a 33x9.50 on an aluminum 15x7. That should be pretty light and still get me off the trail in case of a seriously slashed sidewall.

I'm still wondering if anyone has a good guess as to what the rear glass weighs?
 
I am in the middle of doing my full width swap on leafs as I type. My xj will be on 37's and I will try to get its weight when its done...

As for tools on the trails, I used to carry my box, but have now switched to one of those cheap kits you can buy at kragen for under $40. The case is much smaller and everything is always organized because the case is also molded. The quality is lower, but i only use it on the trail so I have gotten away with it so far. One of those kits, and one of the soft sided craftsman tool bags with some specialty stuff depending on the rig, and your not looking at to much weight...
 
Clean the mud off.

As my Jeep has been on stands for a while for various things, I've had lots of quality time staring at it in the garage drinking beer. I started weighing all the dirt I was chipping off during various tasks.

Inside wheel- 10-15lbs.ea.
Wheel wells/body- @another 10-15lbs. per corner.
Brake rotor or inside drum- 1-2lbs.
Center skid/crossmember(TJ)- 65-70lbs.

Keep in mind also that this was with a Jeep that from the bystanders view, was clean. I started weighing stuff because I could always tell a noticeable diff. after cleaning the Jeep if it was full of mud or snowpack. More noticeable than a passenger or two. As you can see, this "clean" check revealed @ 150 lbs of dirt hidden in the recesses of my Jeep. I'd be willing to bet that at its dirtiest my Jeep has had 3-400 lbs. of dirt hanging on it. Heck with killing trees, my Jeep could probably grow some.
 
I guess i'm a Heavy weight. 4980 Lbs. 1/4 tank, no passengers, no cooler or camping gear. I do however carry about every tool you'd ever want, including impact gun, air rachet and air drill, ax and shovel (required by naches forest service) and enough fluid to change almost everything at least once. Plus Front C4X4 bumper xd9000i, roof rack, and swingout with dual gerrycans, Im also running a D44 Front and FF D60 Rear, both with ARB's 33" SSR's on Steel Trailready Beadlocks. So I Think my axles are up to the task. Im guessing with a loaded cooler, full fuel and passengers im at about 5500-5600 Trail weight.

Dingo
 
What about composite leaf springs? I think rancho makes a kit for the YJ. I always wanted some for the rear of mine. A buddy replaced his single leaf pack in his Corvette with a composite unit and saved 45 lbs or so. that would mean you could save at least 100 of you made the YJ leaves work.

Those wheels and tires are pretty huge too though. upgrading from street tires (205/60R15s on stock 15x6 steelies) to 235/75/15s on Limited 15x7 "basketweave" wheels added 100 lbs. My Rigid bumper also added about 30 lbs or so. I am sitting at 3200 even, no-options model. (Okay I DO have a 4.0 and 4x4, so a couple options were checked thankfully)
 
Yeah check out composite or fiberglass leaves. Probably spendy though. The rear glass probably is close to the windshield in weight. I though one of the mags weighted theri when they replaced it with a poly windshield, can't find it though. Also fiberglass hood, fenders. Could look at plastic, aluminum, composite skids.
 
explorer said:
Clean the mud off.

As my Jeep has been on stands for a while for various things, I've had lots of quality time staring at it in the garage drinking beer. I started weighing all the dirt I was chipping off during various tasks.

Inside wheel- 10-15lbs.ea.
Wheel wells/body- @another 10-15lbs. per corner.
Brake rotor or inside drum- 1-2lbs.
Center skid/crossmember(TJ)- 65-70lbs.

Keep in mind also that this was with a Jeep that from the bystanders view, was clean. I started weighing stuff because I could always tell a noticeable diff. after cleaning the Jeep if it was full of mud or snowpack. More noticeable than a passenger or two. As you can see, this "clean" check revealed @ 150 lbs of dirt hidden in the recesses of my Jeep. I'd be willing to bet that at its dirtiest my Jeep has had 3-400 lbs. of dirt hanging on it. Heck with killing trees, my Jeep could probably grow some.
I don't have any doubt of how much extra weight we add to our vehicles carring around dirt caught up in every nook and crany of our jeeps. I just took a trench rescue class last month and learned an interesting piece of trivia. Dirt weighs 100 lbs per 1 cubic foot. I bet you could scrape that from each wheel well the first five minutes of wheelin for most of us. Especially with the added wieght of water in mud. I never thought about it till now, that adds up.
 
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