XJ Floor Pan Rusted Floors FAQ

[bajacalal]

Got all the carpet out and grinding away now. Doe sthe pan have ot be painted for the herculiner to bond to it?

No, my experience is that it bonds better to bare metal. It seems to not stick well to smooth surfaces like paint unless its roughed up. But, it might stick better to something like primer or POR15.

 

[dizzymac]

I've used it over Zero Rust with good adhesion. As far as the drain plugs, inspect them realy well for the start of rust, if there is none then you could leave them in. You can get new plugs form Team Cherokee for about $1.50 a piece.
You may want to eliminate a few of them and just leave a couple in case you ever decide to put the hose to the interior for a good cleaning, at least you'll have a way to get the water out without using a shop vac.
I'm not putting the carpet back in so I want a way to give the floor a good cleaning now and then so I'm leaving two plugs.

 

[JeepXJ93]

Thats a good idea, thanks.

 

[1985xjlaredo]

yea I only left 2 plugs in also. They just rust out so I would replace them with metal

 

[ryan2l]

Ok so I am a little confused. Are you cutting out your whole floor or just the rusted through areas before you put down the whole new floor pan. So would this be the right procedure.

1. cut out rusted through spots and grind off surface rust.
2. use por15 or similar product.
3. put down floor pan.

 

[JeepXJ93]

I'm pretty sure the guys who are actually replacing the floor w/ a whole new complete floor pan cut the entire section out like in the pics posted earlier in this thread...personally b/c i only have 2 or 3 spots that are small holes rusted through, i just bought sheet metal and cut it to size and welded it over the hole. This is a big thread i'm sure someone else will chime in.

 

[dizzymac]

I'm replacing my entire floor from the firewall to the tailgate, both floor pans. In your case you only have to replace the few spots that rusted through, mine was so rotted there was no sense to try to do spot repairs, this is the second one I have done but by far the worst.
If we come across one this bad again we'll just part it out.

 

[JeepXJ93]

Question about the stuff in the first post of this thread that paints on for heat resistance. Has anyone left out the carpet and NOT applied this stuff? Its a little pricey for the purpose it serves, am i going to be baked out of my XJ when wheeling in the summer if i dont apply this? Is there anything that will do as good of a job that is a little nicer to the wallet? Thanks

 

[1985xjlaredo]

I left the bedliner out and just put down a coat of herculiner. I have black floor mats. It was just 97 degrees here in Kansas City about 5 days ago and I drove around the streets for about 45 minutes with out the air and it really wasnt bad. But I also have a custom Exhaust and no cat so it probley doesnt get as hot as stock. This thread got me through it! Thanks indeed!

 

[rocklandxjer]

Those of you, including myself, who've had the front passenger floor pan rust away should wonder why this is happening. Today I found out why. If there's an internal water leak in the AC evaporator (quite common), that water seeps under the carpet and covers the floor pan, slowly converting the steel into brown dust.
The definitive cure is to replace the AC evaporator but that's a bitch of a job 'cause the whole dash has to be removed. A simpler alternative is to repair the floor pan and coat it with a waterproof sealant. If you have only small holes, you could patch them up with fibreglass and treat the surrounding areas with fibreglass resin.

orrrr.... its the fact that any water that gets into your cab gets stuck there in the cushion under the carpet. then, after driving, the exhaust pipe heats up not only that water, but the mud underneath the floorpans. the combination of mud and water for a long period of time leads to rust.



and i have no carpets, herced the whole thing. the only spot that gets hot is the passenger side trans tunnel. the floor gets a little hot on long trips, but its not that bad...

the exhaust pipe is the biggest culprit. thats why the passenger side is often the most rusted.

 

[1985xjlaredo]

Mine was more rusted on the driver side? I think it would start there first, it's the most used part of the cab.

 

[mattrichter]

heres some pics of my 1995 XJ. i'm going through this floor replacement also.. just wanted to say thanks for this thread, it helped me save time figuring out what i needed for supplies and so forth..
as of right now i have the rear cargo area up to under the rear seat done and sprayed with a rust inhibiter paint.
nevermind, i cant figure out the image upload right now. and its late!!
can i upload images on here or do i have to have a web hosted image?

 

[Black2doorXJ]

On the forums for my other car I have always hosted my photos on www.photobucket.com Then you just copy the link below the pic and paste it into this window. I JUST bought a 94 XJ that has pretty much no floor and no exhaust.. I bought the floor pans last week and I am welding then in this weekend.. I will try to rememeber to get some pics.

 

[1985xjlaredo]

Yea you need ot become a member to just attach photos I think, Mine is 99 percent done.
What did everyone do with the wires that go from the rear of the tunnel to the loom before the driver rear wheel well?

 

[JeepXJ93]

good question, i was just thinking about that the other day b/c i'm almost ready for a coating, i have a gallon of second skin firewall on the way, i cant remember how much slack there is but i was thinking maybe just unclip it and re-route it along the plastic side panels? I just drove mine home from my buddies garage b/c he was gonna let me use his welder....i have serious problems w/ either my motor or tranny, anyone interested see my other thread about "engine or tranny" in oem tech. Thanks all!

 

[mattrichter]

ok, i'll try this.. heres a pic of rear cargo rusted, and mostly finished.
the 2 panels with screws in the middle are going to be removable peices for the upper shock mount bolts.

 

[mattrichter]

heres a pic of front driverside cut out.. i'm getting at this right after i get off here.. enjoy

 

[JeepXJ93]

Alright, i just bought a few tubes of roofing tar to seal up the seams like earlier mentioned in this thread...but i dont see a dry time and i'd like to paint over the rest w/ the second skin...so i called the co. of the roofing tar i bought and the guy said it could take up to a month to be dry to the touch...whats up w/ that? did i just buy the wrong kind? Where can i find a kind that dries rubberized or something in 24-48 hours...is there such thing or is it ok to just paint over it while wet?

 

[bacelaw]

Alright, i just bought a few tubes of roofing tar to seal up the seams like earlier mentioned in this thread...but i dont see a dry time and i'd like to paint over the rest w/ the second skin...so i called the co. of the roofing tar i bought and the guy said it could take up to a month to be dry to the touch...whats up w/ that? did i just buy the wrong kind? Where can i find a kind that dries rubberized or something in 24-48 hours...is there such thing or is it ok to just paint over it while wet?

I just finished repairing floors - I went quick, easy, and cheap, and I still am sure it will outlast the jeep.

I used 20ga steel, self-tapping screws, and roof tar (the kind that comes in a caulking gun).

The roof tar doesn't fully cure for weeks. I painted over it with rustoleum primer, and then their rust stopper paint. Eventually it hardens up, and I think you could patch the floor without even securing it with screws - roofing tar seriously hardens up.

So, yah, I think you can paint over it in a couple days.

Also - Herculiner rules!! It deadens the sound, seals up where you screw in panels...etc...

 

[mattrichter]

i definately see the need for welding in the steel if your doing large sections.. the unibody setup on the xj is kinda crapy to begin with, and a bunch of rust to the mix and you may have a bad outcome.. i added steel supports where ever i could. just my to cents...