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XJ Floor Pan Rusted Floors FAQ

I used JB Weld its about 6.00$$ for the biggest size of it. Its not as good as real welding but if you just have small holes to patch then it should work fine. Take a hammer and beat around the holes LIGHTLY and see if they grow. You'll also have to figure out a way to apply a little pressure to the patch as the cold weld sets up. I used it around all my welds just to be safe and to seal them up completely. Did you ever get any pics yet?
 
 
Ok good pics! Well first if you are going to "weld" them remove the trim!
Ok first thing is first; It looks like you have some mud or dirt in the well behind the rear passenger wheel well get rid of that.
Are you just wnating to fix the rust then put the carpet down? Or are u wanting to herculine the floor?
I kinda need to know that before I can say much more I dont want to send you off in the wrong direction you know!
BTW Where are u from?
 
I'm on the coast of CT (Milford) Its about 20 minutes from New Haven if that helps. Anyways, yea i meant to caption that one w/ the dirt in the wheel well, that is b/c down there, there is a whole too. Anyways, no carpet, i'm done w/ that smelly stuff and i'm not going to bother w/ it anymore, i do want to keep the trip though at least, and then herculine or whatever is most cost effective. As for how smooth the floor looks when i'm done, i'm not gonna be picky about that stuff, so if its easier to cut peices and overlap the metal i dont really care if its higher or lower than the rest of the floor, i'll just apply whatever coating i use thicker or thinner in those areas to smooth it out.
 
im trying to tell if my floor pans have been replaced, but i cant tell. i have a black xj, but the floor pan on the drivers side(only carpet ive ripped up) is a silver color. is that a patch or what its supposed to look like?
 
Hmm not sure about anything else, Maybe someone w/ a black Jeep will chime in but my white jeep has an all white floor.
 
My floors aren't that bad, but I ordered the POR-15 truck bed resto kit (basically just POR-15 with some fibreglass mesh). I por'd the floors from underneath and used mesh over holes like the size of a nickle or more. The mesh gets impregnated and seals it up pretty good.

Has anyone tried this?

I think the kit would work good if you removed the carpet and took the time to do both sides. Could probably save a fairly bad floor and probably less work than cutting/welding.
 
None under my 93. The stock jute padding is a heat shield in part. I put in the Damplifier Pro and besides being much quieter it is much cooler. I did put the stainless Flowmaster heat shield on top of my Flowmaster 50. IT made such a huge difference.

I'm considering pulling down my headliner and putting the Damplifier on the roof. Should quiet up the junk pretty well.

Damn I wish I had taken pictures of my floor pan replacement process to post.
 
I have a black Jeep and the florr was the color of the body. I see the color of your floor JeepXJ93, It looks like some coating. Is the floor flat or gloss finish? ANd all of your pics from you previous post are gone?
I will take some new pics today of what I did. But yes the floor of my XJ "ALL OF IT" was Black
Anyone do this with with a red or blue white? jeep hell any color just different than Black?
 
Its deffinatly a glossy finish, it looks like if i were to wash and wax it that it would be just as glossy as the exterior paint. What does that mean?? Aside from that, do you want me to repost the pics, i dont know what happened to em. Pics from your project would be great. Any other advice on what steps i should take to take care of all those small rust spots much appreciated.
 
Sorry I have been busy, but I did just buy my second XJ. I didnt take alot of pic while I was diong it. And the ones I did take were on my phone that bit the dust so I lost almost every one of them. I Can take some of the completed project if you think that would help you. I was wondering if someone had primered the floor and that is why it was a different color than the outside of the XJ. Where are u at on this project now?
 
Not much farther, i'm hesitant as to how to seal up the new patches, i bought sheets of 18 and 20 guage...and i cut out the excess rust and grinded the rest away so i basically just need to get those patches welded up somehow....and seeing i dont have a welder i dont know what to do...i didnt want to spend money to pay someone to do it but i guess thats the best way to go right now huh? Let me know if the cold weld will work for something like this instead, otherwise i cant think of any other way around it. What do u think?
 
Those of you, including myself, who've had the front passenger floor pan rust away should wonder why this is happening. Today I found out why. If there's an internal water leak in the AC evaporator (quite common), that water seeps under the carpet and covers the floor pan, slowly converting the steel into brown dust.
The definitive cure is to replace the AC evaporator but that's a bitch of a job 'cause the whole dash has to be removed. A simpler alternative is to repair the floor pan and coat it with a waterproof sealant. If you have only small holes, you could patch them up with fibreglass and treat the surrounding areas with fibreglass resin.
 
Just have a shop weld the patches then go over them with the jb weld to seal them and for an extra measure get some black silicone and and go over the bottom and the top of the patch to seal the metal. Don't for get to rubber coat the bottom for more protection!

And the reason that the floor pans rust out is the Drain plugs they put in the floor. The is about 20 of them all together
 
Have someone weld them in, that way you know its done right. JB weld is a great product but I wouldn't be using it for structural purposes...remember your floor pan is a structural item, not just a place to put your seats.
If you look at the bottom of your carpet you will see the real reason these floor pans rust out. There is a diaper like material under the carpet and it is covered with sheet plastic. The "padding" absorbs moisture as well as a diaper then traps it between the palstic and the floor pan.
My XJ sat for two months ...high and dry... no water in the cab, when we pulled the carpet the water ran out of the padding, it was drenched from all trapped moisture.
Enjoy your XJ, do the job the best you can the first time so you can have a worry free ride.
Good luck.
 
Thanks guys, i bought a cheap craftsman angle grinder today b/c it came w/ a 1 year warranty...so i figured what the hell...i have most of the rust spots grinded down, and now i'm left w/ the few holes that i have...is there anything i should do to prep the holes before i have the shop weld in the panels...and should the panels be welded in from the top or undercarraige? I'm assuming top? Thanks for walkin me through this again.
 
Just make sure that there is about a 1/2" of bare metal around the holes. Now that hole that is in the back behind the drivers rear wheel well youll have to drop the tank or just JB weld that one in there The fuel filler line and the tank breather are about 1/2" from the bottom of the floor and that rubber will catch fire instantly! Make sure that you have all the area under the hole free of debries and any hoses or lines. Weld the panels in from the top!
And no Problem withthe help guy
 
Just outta curiousity, while i'm still in the process of grinding and cutting out all the rust spots, should i cut out around the drain plugs and replace them w/ solid sheet metal too or leave them in? I dont get the point of them anyways unless you do some serious water crossings. Just seems like they are causing more rust anyways.
 
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