XJ Buildup III

[yaromb]

A number of companies offer solutions like these. None is offering a product that requires fishing bolts taped to wire hanger and then welding them.

Most use a plate that bolts to the existing holes or to new holes. Works pretty well...

MMMMM, those words were tasty.......no bar pin issues to worry about, but I did locate another point of failure. Welding shock tabs to a sheet metal sandwich that is thinner than the tabs themselves......no bueno.

I was bombing off the mountain with the family a few weeks ago and the sound of a broken bar pin/floppy shock struck a chord in my memory bank.....but wait!?....I have no bar pins? A quick inspection found my pass. side rear upper mount almost completely torn off, so I unbolted the shock from the axle, gave it a couple of wiggles and off it came, chunk O' crossmember and all.

The next week I spent some time on the creeper, pondering a solution that didn't mean cutting a hole in the floor or extensive plating of the uniframe with a new x-member tie-in........K.I.S.S was what I was after.

I came up with this solution.....

I drilled holes in the X-member to accommodate 7/16" bolts and snaked the 2 near the unirail in by taping them to a string and fishing it through with a wire. Worked pretty slick. I then welded these in from below; I made the holes large enough that my weld would penetrate to the bolt head and make them secure so they wouldn't spin when tightened. I welded the sandwiched X-member back together where it tore apart.......fwiw, welding overhead on sheet metal sucks, at multiple levels.

I mocked up this mount using CAD (cardboard aided drafting- empty cereal boxes work great) and then fabbed them using 1.5" W x 3/16" T strap.........can't believe JCR doesn't sell something like these already......wink:wink

Primed, finished and shock re-installed. 2 bolts are welded on because you can't access the head with a wrench, the 2 inboard bolts can easily be reached through the hole in the stock X-member.

I lost about 1/2" of uptravel with the new mount but this actually puts my shock in the center of it's 10" stroke at static height......5" up and 5" down travel. I'll install the driver side mount when I get my rear bumpstop project off the bench and onto my rig.

 

[Israel]

A number of companies offer solutions like these. None is offering a product that requires fishing bolts taped to wire hanger and then welding them.

Most use a plate that bolts to the existing holes or to new holes. Works pretty well...

I'm sure they work well for most rigs that are just going to see dirt roads and the slow motion suspension movement of rock crawling, but this is the great flying XJ of the west, we're talking about.

Looks great, Jeff!

 

[supertubesocks]

New bump pads are in the works, not sure if I'll run limit straps out back, as the leaves limit full extension of the shock. I do runs straps up front.

Obviously your leaves aren't limiting your droop travel. You're not accounting for the inertia of the axels drooping out. If you keep needing up the mount without adding limit straps you will just tear the shock apart next.

 

[Outlander560]

looks pretty good..very creative..

 

[DanMan2k06]

Here's another idea if you want something that doesn't rely on the strength of your factory sheetmetal.

http://www.bsfab.net/?p=96

 

[romainh63500]

Very good job!! =D

 

[G2WANIT]

Love this build, sooooooo clean! Try as I might I just can't seem to keep mine clean. But that's okay, I can just gaze longingly at yours! - subscribed

 

[XJEEPER]

Time to stop collecting parts and get busy!

 

[Jes]

Oh no! Step away from the steel. Steel is heavy... heavy is bad.

 

[Gravesdiggerxj]

Jeff, you should cut and fold the lower quarters.
Jeep put that body line there so you know what to remove.

 

[dukie564]

LOL it's true - **** lower quarter panels

 

[XJEEPER]

Jeff, you should cut and fold the lower quarters.
Jeep put that body line there so you know what to remove.

Meh.......

 

[Gravesdiggerxj]

It makes the front and rear fender end at the same body line.

 

[G2WANIT]

He doesn't need the cut and fold for tire clearance, which IMO is the only real reason to do it... The only other reason to do it is because it gets banged up, which he is resolving with the armor. PERSONALLY, I think it looks ugly unless you have more of a buggy look or put a rear bumper on that builds half of it back up. If you like the way it looks then cut away, but it's pretty obvious it would sick out like a sore thumb on this build.

And for the record, I have cut and fold rear panels :moon:

 

[MoparManiac]

Agreed.

I say keep 'em and run the armor.

 

[sunburned]

I think the best look is a cut n fold on the rear fender, then run a rear bumper that protects that area. I have mine cut with the JCR quarter panel armor and I still hit that section all the time. I've wanted to make a bumper to protect it, but never got around to it. A few companies (JCR, Rigidco) do make bumpers for cut n fold rears.

Plus, I just don't see that kind of armor keeping the sheet metal intact from multiple hits on that lower edge. Maybe bumps from the side, but not when sliding off ledges.

 

[DrMoab]

I wouldn't cut them either.

 

[Root Moose]

Are you building a buggy or a touring Jeep?

if buggy cut

 

[Israel]

Cut and fold them and then build an exo-cage. uke:

 

[XJEEPER]

Patience folks......the lowers will integrate with a tube bumper. And the uppers will have integrated tube flares.....unless I change my mind.