Alright. If you want to go 5x5.5, this is the way to do it. If you don't feel a need to change bolt patterns, stick with timken unit bearings and alloy-usa stubs. I don't feel either has an advantage in strength or complication. I wouldn't go through the trouble for a 5x4.5 hub kit though.
With unit bearings (27 spline or alloy-usa 30 spline).
WJ knuckles with .250" JKS spacer welded on. 2000+ XJ/TJ unit bearings with WJ rotors redrilled 5x4.5. I have no experience with the sport-track ford rotors. You need to put a spacer between the WJ knuckle and the caliper mount (the calipers use a mount to mount to the knuckle, they do not mount directly). I used a 1/8" grade 8 washer. "sketchy" but I had no problem with it.
Unfortunately, I never took a picture of that setup, but you can sort of see it here.
If you are going with the warn 5x5.5 hub kit, there are two (or three) things you have to do. Read these instructions all the way through before attempting to follow them, as I'm not really putting it all in order.
First, the Warn instructions say to machine the CJ-7 rotor to cut the hat and outside diameter .. don't do it. That part was easy.
The kit has a 3/16" spacer that goes between the hub and the rotor. DO NOT INSTALL IT. Just skip it. That part is easy too. This will however make the non threaded portion of your wheel studs 3/16 too long. You can do one of two things to fix this:
1) install the 3/16 spacer OUTSIDE of the hub, between the hub and wheel. Doing this would work fine, and increase your track width by 3/8 - which would be nice.. but I don't like having parts that may fall off when changing a wheel in the mud and leave me unable to tighten my wheel studs down.
So, I spent an hour digging through the dorman catalog and found:
2) Replace the wheel studs with dorman part '610-219.1'. Its a nearly identical wheel stud, 1/8" shorter hat but the same overall length. You can STILL put the 3/16 spacer on the outside if you want, but if its missing you will be able to tighten your wheel down.
This is pretty easy too.
Other than that, install the kit as normal. The second problem you will have is that your caliper will not be centered on the rotor. Its off by a bit more than 1/8". I talked to a bunch of people, read a bunch of writeups, and saw some really sketchy fixes. There are a couple of good ones, and IMHO the best is to machine .130" off of the outside of the caliper mount on the knuckle. I went to a local machine shop, it took them 15 minutes and cost me $20.
(look at the shiny bits).
Easy stuff. Leave the spacer off, replace the wheel studs, don't machine the rotors, machine the knuckle. Bolt together. Install shiny wheel.
As an added and unexpected bonus, my track width seems to be just a hair wider even without the 3/16" spacer. I was "fine" before, but now I have just a bit more clearance to my steering - which was a tight fit before.
Before:
After: