XJ to WJ Disc Brake Conversion Advice Needed

[Evan03]

I think he welded a arm on thd knuckle.

When i did my track bar i raised it over the axle high as possible bracket had about 1/2" clearance at full stuff
I then set angle findet on barvand matched drag link angle then fabbed frame side.

Where the track bar is located is kinda errelevant as long as its parallel to drag link and close to the same length

The path they travel in would be best to not have one staggerd off the other. Someone good at math could figure length of bar to arc to tune difference with length adjustment.

I think this steering makes the jeep go from hohumm to no were something, real live crossover steering thats badass.

To me it wad rewarding to adjust my drumb brakes and immediately stop much better. Wj parts didn't give the same warm and fuzzy

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[XJEEPER]

https://offroadonly.com/product-category/u-turn/

Here's a kit, that was brought up a few month back.

Also, when I did my first one, the guy who did the fab work etc. really liked it. He wanted to do it in his Wrangle. Somehow he found a knuckle for the D30 that has the extra TRE attachment. I'm blanking on the maker. Its a $300 part. He bought his for $40.
Also, I wonder how much an OTK trackbar helps. I did run across a thread where that is what one guy did. OTK trackbar and stock steering. Said the OTK helped.

Teraflex makes the passenger side knuckle that you are referencing.

Not sure what an "OTK" trackbar is, as Over the Knuckle is a description for the orientation of the steering linkage. Trackbars don't mount to the knuckle, so "raised trackbar" or Over the Axle (OTA) would make more sense.

This setup definitely offers improved steering geometry, but the WJ swap nets better braking and improved steering.

My WJ swap setup, which I've run since 2010. https://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=913774&page=9

I also run Teraflex HD JK Ball Joints, which fit the XJ D30 inner C and the WJ knuckle taper.

 

[Evan03]

Recycled 1ton steering

Im often amazed at the times i can still steer and get very little steer from suspension cycling.

I guess if having better brakes to tpw gets a guy headed towards a good steering for it im all for.

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[75SV1]

Teraflex makes the passenger side knuckle that you are referencing.

Not sure what an "OTK" trackbar is, as Over the Knuckle is a description for the orientation of the steering linkage. Trackbars don't mount to the knuckle, so "raised trackbar" would make more sense.

This setup definitely offers improved steering geometry, but the WJ swap nets better braking and improved steering.

My WJ swap setup, which I've run since 2010. https://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=913774&page=9

I also run Teraflex HD JK Ball Joints, which fit the XJ D30 inner C and the WJ knuckle taper.

https://www.quadratec.com/products/16990_00_07.htm
Yes, Tera Flex.
OTK is Over the Knuckle. I do see that in the advertisement for those types of setups. I didn't name it. I think I've been running mine sine 2015.
My first one I used the Rusty's OTK as it had rubber bushings. I don't know why I don't like hiems for road use. I think there were 3-4 offerings back then. My present one is mainly Stinky Fab. The actual track bar is a fabbed piece. I started with an RE bracket, to use with their Track Bar brace. The Ironman axle bracket didn't work out. I think the WJ's arms would contact them. He referenced the Rusty's. His eyes popped out with the Stinky's. They are beefy.
On the first one, I didn't have a steering stabilizer on it at first. It drove great. I added one latter, as for DW. Yeah, doesn't help. I 'upgraded' it to Ruffstuff D30 cover and an OME WJ stabilizer shock, from a Tenneco. Really, little help. On my 2nd one, I do not have a steering stabilizer as of yet. Really, no need.

 

[stleus]

Thank you for all the replies. I guess the answer to my question is that the WJ brakes/knuckles swap will most likely work with my stock steering, however, the angles will not be optimal and I will not get the benefit of a steering upgrade. In addition, I will only see a marginal improvement in braking. Is that right?

I couldn't pass on the P&P brake/rotor sale so I did end up getting the rotors and calipers. One thing I was confused about was that some of the calipers said "akebono" on them and some didn't, although they looked very much like akebonos. Are the non-branded ones just as good?

Rotors/calipers/pads 50$ out the door. I don't plan on reconditioning any of these parts until I can be sure they will workout. I plan on getting the knuckles and ball joints next week when P&P has their 25% all parts sale. Trying to keep things cheap. I think I will start with welding and drilling the aforementioned parts and then think about which kit works best for the steering part of things ........sounds like Currie Currect-Lync is probably the simplest way to go?? I am not very mechanically inclined, and would hate to run into trouble that requires anything beyond step by step bolt on instructions. I saw some YouTube videos on this swap and things started getting ugly when it came to the steering part of things ........also, since I have a 2000XJ and 17inch wheels I guess I wont be needing to deal with TJ hubs or upgrading the size of my wheels.

P&P SUPER CRAZY FIND OF THE YEAR!!!! 20$ I wish I found this 15 years ago........

 

[SlowXj]

I have stock xj front brakes... cheap semi metalic pads and decent rotors... the rear is 8.8 disks with yet again cheap semi metalic pads and decent rotors.
This combo stops my 35s just fine by my book. I only tow a lawnmower with it nowadays but I see no need to change until steering needs to be done

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[Evan03]

Are you registered for the lawn mower weight

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[SlowXj]

Lol with a 400k mile low compression 4.0, the 1k lb mower, and 1k lb trailer... going is more of a struggle than stopping!

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[OptionXIII]

The WJ tie rod end locations are 1" lower. Use a ZJ pitman arm that is 0.75" lower to get it almost entirely back in alignment, then bolt up your standard XJ style steering.

Weld on a 0.25" spacer and 2000+ XJ hubs. This will center the rotor without any caliper spacers.

Voice of experience here - that is exactly how I swapped WJ brakes on to my 1999 XJ. After 10,000 miles I still love my WJ brakes, and love that I didn't spend $900+ on some swap kit.