CartsXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Glenville, NY
Here's some pics. Basically using JKS draglink and tie-rod with stock WJ TRE's and a YJ pitman arm.
Sorry, thought I had a better close up pic......
WJ brake upgrade for a 2001 XJ... Simplified?
- Thread starter anthrax323
- Start date
Here's some pics. Basically using JKS draglink and tie-rod with stock WJ TRE's and a YJ pitman arm.
Sorry, thought I had a better close up pic......
CartsXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Glenville, NY
To clarify the front end of my XJ..........I'll try to get a better pic up soon.
98 XJ HP Dana 30:
-stock WJ ball joints
-stock WJ knuckles with JKS spacers welded on
-Milemarker hub kit
-99 Explorer 4wd disc (enlarged to fit hub kit)
-Stock Akebono (spelling) calipers and mounts
-Washers to space the caliper correctly
-JKS drag link and tie-rod specific for the XJ/TJ
-stock WJ TRE's
-Factory YJ Pitman arm
-Ford super duty steering stablizer with a homemade tie-rod bracket
Trac-bar:
-RE HD bar with their bracket
-Factory mounting location on axle
Everything is bolt on, the only welding I've done is the spacers on the knuckles. I bought the higher trackbar mount from JKS, but since the bumpsteer was not noticeable I really haven't bothered to install it and shorten my trac-bar. When the axle gets slid out from underneath it to replace the control arm bushings this month, I might think about installing it. Or will save it for my 609 build.
98 XJ HP Dana 30:
-stock WJ ball joints
-stock WJ knuckles with JKS spacers welded on
-Milemarker hub kit
-99 Explorer 4wd disc (enlarged to fit hub kit)
-Stock Akebono (spelling) calipers and mounts
-Washers to space the caliper correctly
-JKS drag link and tie-rod specific for the XJ/TJ
-stock WJ TRE's
-Factory YJ Pitman arm
-Ford super duty steering stablizer with a homemade tie-rod bracket
Trac-bar:
-RE HD bar with their bracket
-Factory mounting location on axle
Everything is bolt on, the only welding I've done is the spacers on the knuckles. I bought the higher trackbar mount from JKS, but since the bumpsteer was not noticeable I really haven't bothered to install it and shorten my trac-bar. When the axle gets slid out from underneath it to replace the control arm bushings this month, I might think about installing it. Or will save it for my 609 build.
CartsXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Glenville, NY
The WJ Tie-rod ends are off set to clear the diff cover (I am running a Blue Torch Fab one) and the factory trac-bar mount.
CartsXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Glenville, NY
Alright here's some closer pics of my 98 XJ with WJ steering and stock axle trac-bar location. Don't mind the rust.....living in the northeast has its disadvantages. This use to be my daily driver, and the winters have defintiely taken its toll.
But anyways here are the pics.
These were taken with an Iphone.......so the quality sucks.
But anyways here are the pics.
These were taken with an Iphone.......so the quality sucks.
Just to provide another parts list:
WJ knuckles
WJ ball joints
JKS spacers (welded on)
WJ Akenobo Calipers
2001 Ford Sport Trac Rotors (spaced out from hub flange by 1/16" washers)
2001 TJ Hubs (ground to fit inside sport trac rotors)
Ballistic Fab track bar brackets
1.5"x.25" wall DOM tubing (drag link, track bar and tie rod), weld in threaded inserts
Teraflex offset tie rod ends
Goferit tie rod flipserts
Chevy 1 ton drag link ends (pitman arm and knuckle)
3/4" heims on both ends of track bar
Waggy dropped pitman arm (longer arm than stock XJ but same drop)
I will try and get some updated pics up in the next few days. I recently went to the TRE's on the drag link and am happier with that than the heims. If I could, I would make my track bar a bit longer. While the angles are good, becasue it's a few inches shorter than the draglink I do get some bump steer off-road when the suspension is moving more. There is no bumpsteer noticeable on the street.
In canse anyone is looking for WJ ball joints, I found a good deal on an entire set on Ebay. Seller is worldsuspension $41 shipped. We'll see how they hold up though...
I am not sure I would do this exactly the same if I had to do it over again, but it works.
WJ knuckles
WJ ball joints
JKS spacers (welded on)
WJ Akenobo Calipers
2001 Ford Sport Trac Rotors (spaced out from hub flange by 1/16" washers)
2001 TJ Hubs (ground to fit inside sport trac rotors)
Ballistic Fab track bar brackets
1.5"x.25" wall DOM tubing (drag link, track bar and tie rod), weld in threaded inserts
Teraflex offset tie rod ends
Goferit tie rod flipserts
Chevy 1 ton drag link ends (pitman arm and knuckle)
3/4" heims on both ends of track bar
Waggy dropped pitman arm (longer arm than stock XJ but same drop)
I will try and get some updated pics up in the next few days. I recently went to the TRE's on the drag link and am happier with that than the heims. If I could, I would make my track bar a bit longer. While the angles are good, becasue it's a few inches shorter than the draglink I do get some bump steer off-road when the suspension is moving more. There is no bumpsteer noticeable on the street.
In canse anyone is looking for WJ ball joints, I found a good deal on an entire set on Ebay. Seller is worldsuspension $41 shipped. We'll see how they hold up though...
I am not sure I would do this exactly the same if I had to do it over again, but it works.
Gaius
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Beaverton, OR
When using the WJ calipers, do you reuse the XJ soft brake lines?
CartsXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Glenville, NY
Yes you can. But a great upgrade for us lifted folks is front lines out of a mid 90's Chevy 3/4ton pick-up. Much longer and bolt right up. Granted the best up grade would be to stainless braided lines, but having the ability to run to a local parts store and getting a replacement line over the counter goes along way in a pinch.
CanMan
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Lake Tapps, WA
I used YJ ones.
northwestxj
NAXJA Member #1283
- Location
- washington
x2.
EMD-Jeepin
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Woodridge
Correct me if I'm wrong (I'm still waiting on a few more parts to start my swap) but manufacturers have most of the dimensions for their parts on their websites and all it takes is a little math. It seems that everyone has a different take on what rotor/hub/spacer combo to use.
A stock WJ hub has a flange offset distance of 2.118 inches (timken p/n HA598679). With this hub, the disc would be centered in the caliper (obviously since it is stock). Only problem is, 5 on 5 bolt pattern and the knuckle is too shallow for ball joint/u-joint alignment.
As people mentioned above, XJs had 2 hubs. 89-99 used a hub (timken p/n 513084) with a flange offset distance of 2.133 inches and 00-01 (00-06 TJs) used a hub (timken p/n HA597449) with a flange offset distance of 1.908 inches. (according to Timkens catalog).
So if you use a 00-01 hub plus the JKS spacer (0.25") your total flange offset is 2.158". Stock WJ is 2.138" which means that your rotor is +0.040" from stock which means you would have to put a 0.040" spacer between the caliper mounting bracket and knuckle to put the caliper in alignment with the rotor.
A 88-99 hub (2.133") is close to a stock WJ (2.118") by a difference of 0.017" but once you add the 0.25" JKS spacer, you are now +0.267" from a stock WJ hub flange offset distance.
Keep in mind, these measurements are still assuming that you will be using the stock WJ rotor. Some people say that an Explorer sport track rotor will work.According to websites like Napa online and Autozone, 03-05 sport trac rotors have a rotor hat height of 2.6". A stock WJ rotor is 2.5" That means if you use a sport trac rotor on a 00-01 hub set up (1.908"(hub) + 0.25"(jks spacer) -0.1"(negative difference between WJ and Sport trac rotor)) you are now have an offset between the rotor and caliper of -0.06". That means that your rotor is now too far in towards the center of the jeep so you would have to put a 0.06" spacer between the rotor and the hub flange to bring it into alignment with your caliper.
Now again, I have yet to try this myself but I also haven't seen anyone else actually give measuements or proof of what actually does work. Please feel free to correct me but this is all I've been able to come up with so far.
A stock WJ hub has a flange offset distance of 2.118 inches (timken p/n HA598679). With this hub, the disc would be centered in the caliper (obviously since it is stock). Only problem is, 5 on 5 bolt pattern and the knuckle is too shallow for ball joint/u-joint alignment.
As people mentioned above, XJs had 2 hubs. 89-99 used a hub (timken p/n 513084) with a flange offset distance of 2.133 inches and 00-01 (00-06 TJs) used a hub (timken p/n HA597449) with a flange offset distance of 1.908 inches. (according to Timkens catalog).
So if you use a 00-01 hub plus the JKS spacer (0.25") your total flange offset is 2.158". Stock WJ is 2.138" which means that your rotor is +0.040" from stock which means you would have to put a 0.040" spacer between the caliper mounting bracket and knuckle to put the caliper in alignment with the rotor.
A 88-99 hub (2.133") is close to a stock WJ (2.118") by a difference of 0.017" but once you add the 0.25" JKS spacer, you are now +0.267" from a stock WJ hub flange offset distance.
Keep in mind, these measurements are still assuming that you will be using the stock WJ rotor. Some people say that an Explorer sport track rotor will work.According to websites like Napa online and Autozone, 03-05 sport trac rotors have a rotor hat height of 2.6". A stock WJ rotor is 2.5" That means if you use a sport trac rotor on a 00-01 hub set up (1.908"(hub) + 0.25"(jks spacer) -0.1"(negative difference between WJ and Sport trac rotor)) you are now have an offset between the rotor and caliper of -0.06". That means that your rotor is now too far in towards the center of the jeep so you would have to put a 0.06" spacer between the rotor and the hub flange to bring it into alignment with your caliper.
Now again, I have yet to try this myself but I also haven't seen anyone else actually give measuements or proof of what actually does work. Please feel free to correct me but this is all I've been able to come up with so far.
GT MOTORSPORTS
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- lynchburg,ohio
Im confused on the names of the WJ calipers and brackets. If I go to the parts store or dealer do I need to ask for the akebono(spelling) or the others, or will they give me what they have in stock?
offrd3
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- new jersey
Thank you that helps alot I have ordered all the stuff from jks and am waiting for it to come. This Is my next step for when it comes to pick which hub and rotor I'm going to pick.
- Location
- Wasatch Range
On my 2000, I'm running WJ knuckles with Okebono calipers, JKS spacer, TJ unit-hubs, and WJ rotors that I redrilled to 5 x 4.5" bolt pattern.
You can eliminate the mystery and just drill out the WJ rotors to match the XJ bolt pattern.
Took me 30 minutes tops to mark and drill the 5 x 4.5" bolt pattern in both WJ rotors with my drill press. You could do this with a hand drill as well, as the rotors center on the hub flange, not the wheel studs so if your drilled holes aren't perfect, you'll be fine. I drilled mine 1/32" larger, fwiw.
RidgeRunnerXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Brighton(ish), CO
I just finished this swap today on my '99.
I used:
'99 WJ rotors, redrilld to 5 on 4.5. It took me less than half an hour to use the old rotor as a pattern and re-drill the WJ rotors with a uni-bit and air drill.
'99 XJ unit hubs for a cast rotor.
Teves calpers from '99 WJ.
JKS flange spacers.
I did NOT need any spacers for the caliper bracket, it centered on the rotor just fine. Of course I used junk yard rotors and had them turned, they are well within spec. From NAPAOnline, new WJ rotors are 1.03" (26.162mm), mine were over 26mm before they got turned so they are close to new. The caliper bracket was centered on the rotor without any spacers.
The Teves calipers clear my 15x8 Soft 8's with 3.5" BS by 3/16".
I know each one seems to come out different, this was just my experience. Two of us worked on mine today and did the entire swap in about 8 hours.
I do have a question....anybody have a pic of how the passenger side sway bar mount turned out? Mine ended up on top of the new trac bar mount and I don't like it there. EDIT I found a few pics over on Pirate that I might be able to make work but I'd still like to see what you guys have done.
Here is a pic just before we put the tires on and aligned it.
I used:
'99 WJ rotors, redrilld to 5 on 4.5. It took me less than half an hour to use the old rotor as a pattern and re-drill the WJ rotors with a uni-bit and air drill.
'99 XJ unit hubs for a cast rotor.
Teves calpers from '99 WJ.
JKS flange spacers.
I did NOT need any spacers for the caliper bracket, it centered on the rotor just fine. Of course I used junk yard rotors and had them turned, they are well within spec. From NAPAOnline, new WJ rotors are 1.03" (26.162mm), mine were over 26mm before they got turned so they are close to new. The caliper bracket was centered on the rotor without any spacers.
The Teves calipers clear my 15x8 Soft 8's with 3.5" BS by 3/16".
I know each one seems to come out different, this was just my experience. Two of us worked on mine today and did the entire swap in about 8 hours.
I do have a question....anybody have a pic of how the passenger side sway bar mount turned out? Mine ended up on top of the new trac bar mount and I don't like it there. EDIT I found a few pics over on Pirate that I might be able to make work but I'd still like to see what you guys have done.
Here is a pic just before we put the tires on and aligned it.
Last edited:
Which track bar brace is that? RE?
northwestxj
NAXJA Member #1283
- Location
- washington
I used the same, but with the akebono calipers instead, with NO spacers as well...
BTW, looks good RidgeRunnerXJ :thumbup:
I think something people need to realize, is just because you are able to fit the caliper over the rotor and bolt it to the knuckle, does NOT mean that you didn't need any spacers. As some people have mentioned before, even with brand new pads, your calipers will allow for a little bit of left/right float. Meaning, your caliper sliders will slide to adjust for your incorrect offset.
Honestly, this isn't a big deal. The only time this will become a real issue is if you run your pads very low, and you overextend your caliper float in one direction. Then you could run into the situation where only one pad is applying pressure to the rotor. You'd get really bad braking performance and pontially damage your rotor.
I for one, when I do this swap I will try my best to space the caliper properly. I won't fret too much about being absolutely perfect though, down to the hundreth of an inch. That's just silly.
Honestly, this isn't a big deal. The only time this will become a real issue is if you run your pads very low, and you overextend your caliper float in one direction. Then you could run into the situation where only one pad is applying pressure to the rotor. You'd get really bad braking performance and pontially damage your rotor.
I for one, when I do this swap I will try my best to space the caliper properly. I won't fret too much about being absolutely perfect though, down to the hundreth of an inch. That's just silly.
The one question your post brought up in my mind, was what unit hub was the JKS spacer made for? I can only assume it covers the large 89-99 range.
So, what is the difference from from 89-99 and 00-01 cherokee? Did the 00-01 have a different Axle, or a different knuckle? If it was the knuckle that was different (deeper, if you will), you need a 0.475" spacer instead of a 0.25" spacer to get the axle joint properly aligned with your WJ knuckle. If it was in fact the axle (joint is spaced closer to the center of the axle, which I kinda doubt) then continuing to use the 0.25" spacer would work fine.
Am I making sense here?
The 2000/2001 did have a different axle, sort of. They have a low pinion Dana 30 versus the high pinion, but that doesn't really matter here. The axle length/width on the Dana 30's is the same between the years.
The difference between the 00/01 axles is that they used a different hub assembly to compensate for cast rotors (versus the composite rotors used on pre '99.5.)
The .25" spacer from JKS has nothing to do with the brake alignment or hub offset. It is needed in order to get the u-joint on the axle to line up with the ball joint center of rotation.
