WJ brake upgrade for a 2001 XJ... Simplified?

[JNickel101]

2003-04 WJ Calipers, Knuckles, Brackets, Pads

Unit Bearings - 01 TJ? (for some reason - but I think ones from an 00-01 XJ are the same - you just don't want the ones that were used with "composite rotors")

Rotors - if you get the WJ ones, you'll have to redrill them to 5x4.5". If you go with ones from an 03-ish Explorer Sport Trac, then they're already 5x4.5", but the rotor height is just a hair taller, so you have to space them out from the hub in order for them to be centered in the caliper bracket.

You will also need to re-do your steering - new TREs/heims and a new tie rod/draglink, because on the WJ rotor, it is knuckle-to-knuckle for the tie rod. Drag link is separate and mounts higher. Not sure how else to describe it

 

[MoparManiac]

Also if you use sport trac rotors, you need to grind down the outer flange of the hub in order to fit the rotor over it. It's not much but must be done.

If I was building a D30 again, I would have used WJ rotors redrilled. It's not hard to do and no need to mess with rotor spacing or grinding down the hub flange.

 

[foxwar71]

If I was building a D30 again, I would have used WJ rotors redrilled. It's not hard to do and no need to mess with rotor spacing or grinding down the hub flange.

Colin, remember when we talked about this? the only problem still with the WJ rotors though will be the fact that theyre now 1/4" out to far because of the JKS spacer added behind the unit bearing.

 

[MoparManiac]

Colin, remember when we talked about this? the only problem still with the WJ rotors though will be the fact that theyre now 1/4" out to far because of the JKS spacer added behind the unit bearing.

Rotors - if you get the WJ ones, you'll have to redrill them to 5x4.5". If you go with ones from an 03-ish Explorer Sport Trac, then they're already 5x4.5", but the rotor height is just a hair taller, so you have to space them out from the hub in order for them to be centered in the caliper bracket.

This is what has me thinking. If the Sport Trac rotor is just a hair taller, then the WJ rotor should be centered.

 

[JRW7072009]

Awesome, thanks guys.

 

[monkeyevil]

I just swapped the WJ setup from my wifes 94 onto her 00.

I used a set of Spicer upper and lower TJ/XJ/YJ balljoints with no issue.

I used the 00 hubs, a set of new redrilled 99 WJ rotors, the 99 calipers and brackets, .125 thick spacers between the caliper brackets and knuckles. Between the knuckles and hubs I used the same .250 spacer.

Not sure if the 01 XJ is any different, but the above setup is the same I have used on my 93 YJ, and her 94 XJ. With stock rims I've always needed 1.25 wheel spacers. On my YJ I had aluminum wheels with 3.75 backspacing with no rubbing.

 

[offrd3]

I'm trying to figure out how to do this in steps, can i use my inverted Y setup and just mount it to the lower most atachment points on the knuckles. If so then i can wait and redo my steering and track bar in the spring. since i only have 2 inches of lift i'm sure the steering and track bar will be a bit challenging.

 

[monkeyevil]

I'm trying to figure out how to do this in steps, can i use my inverted Y setup and just mount it to the lower most atachment points on the knuckles. If so then i can wait and redo my steering and track bar in the spring. since i only have 2 inches of lift i'm sure the steering and track bar will be a bit challenging.

Should not be an issue... I am pretty sure the WJ lower arms are slightly lower than standard D30 though.

 

[sunburned]

I just swapped the WJ setup from my wifes 94 onto her 00.

I used a set of Spicer upper and lower TJ/XJ/YJ balljoints with no issue.

I used the 00 hubs, a set of new redrilled 99 WJ rotors, the 99 calipers and brackets, .125 thick spacers between the caliper brackets and knuckles. Between the knuckles and hubs I used the same .250 spacer.

Not sure if the 01 XJ is any different, but the above setup is the same I have used on my 93 YJ, and her 94 XJ. With stock rims I've always needed 1.25 wheel spacers. On my YJ I had aluminum wheels with 3.75 backspacing with no rubbing.

How are the '99 WJ calipers? I thought the best ones to use were the '03 and up Akebono calipers?

On your YJ and the '94 XJ, did you also use '00 XJ hubs or the normal '94 hubs?

Can the stock WJ steering arms be used on an XJ?

 

[Gaius]

I also want some clarification:

When using the WJ rotors, there are two options for hubs:
pre-90, no caliper bracket spacer needed.
1990-2000 hubs, .125 spacer needed to space out the caliper bracket.

When using SportTrac rotors:
Need 2001+ TJhubs, likely no spacing needed to center the caliper.

Is this correct?

 

[monkeyevil]

How are the '99 WJ calipers? I thought the best ones to use were the '03 and up Akebono calipers?

On your YJ and the '94 XJ, did you also use '00 XJ hubs or the normal '94 hubs?

Can the stock WJ steering arms be used on an XJ?

Best ones are Akebono, correct. Jeep had a recall (or maybe a TSB) on the Teives style so many 99+ have been converted. Mine were not, but I got the complete axle for less than $100, so I figured it didn't matter. So far no issues with rotor warping. On my YJ I ran the Akebobo.

I used 94 YJ hubs on my YJ, 95 XJ hubs on her 95, and now 00 XJ hubs on her 00. I remember running a .250 spacer between the caliper bracket and knuckle on my YJ, but that was 6 years ago and I can't remember why.

I thought the WJ axles were wider? So I really have no clue on that.

 

[Talyn]

I thought the WJ axles were wider? So I really have no clue on that.

They are, but axle width has nothing to do with the spacer. IIRC the spacer is there to keep the axle shaft u-joint in the same plane as the hub's pivot plane.

That reminds me of a high dollar kit I saw someplace (can't remember where now). What they did was sandwich a mounting bracket between he hub and knuckle, which when installed pulled the axle shaft out the housing more and messed up the alignment of the axle shaft u-joint and the knuckle pivot.

 

[jdbwrx]

I also want some clarification:

When using the WJ rotors, there are two options for hubs:
pre-90, no caliper bracket spacer needed.
1990-2000 hubs, .125 spacer needed to space out the caliper bracket.

When using SportTrac rotors:
Need 2001+ TJhubs, likely no spacing needed to center the caliper.

Is this correct?

I am currently using the '99 composite wheel bearing hubs with my set up (Ford Sport track rotors) and I did have to use a small spacer between the caliper and the knuckle to get the caliper centered on the rotor.

I need new wheel bearings so I ordered the 01 TJ hubs. I will report back when installed and let you know if I needed to use any sort of spacing.

For what it's worth, the '01-'06 TJ hubs are the same as the '00 and '01 XJ hubs/wheel bearing units. (for use with the cast rotor)

 

[sunburned]

Hmm, the only WJ I remember seeing the year of in the JY was a '99, so I guess that won't work, unless they give me a badass price on it.

 

[XJEEPER]

So, after reading thru more WJ steering upgrade swap articles than I can count, I've come to these conclusions:

I'm running 2001 TJ Unit Bearing Hubs right now and I have the JKS 1/4 hub spacers to weld on, so I'll need to run Sport Trac rotors to keep the rotors spaced properly in my Akebono calipers? Does this setup also eliminate the need for washers between the rotor and the hub?

I also need to pick up WJ Lower ball joints to be safe, although many have said that they run XJ uppers and lowers.

I'm already running a Vanco Big Brake kit, which I will be selling when I get the WJ stuff......I'm doing the swap for the steering benefits, as the Vanco kit stops my Jeep very well. I DD my rig on the freeway and I'm done with the poor steering response of an Inverted Y design.

TIA

Update:
I installed my WJ knuckles this past weekend and I used my TJ 2001 TJ hubs, Akebono calipers and 2003 WJ rotors. I transferred the 5 x 4.5 bolt pattern over to the WJ rotor by laying the Vanco hat to hat and scribing the hole placement on the WJ rotor. I center punched the holes and then I threw the WJ rotors up on my drill press and punched 1/4" pilot holes in them, then stepped up to a 9/16" bit and redrilled them. Took me less than 30 minutes to mark the rotors and drill 10 holes....twice.
I then chamfered the holes with a cone taper die grinder bit and they look darn near factory machined, and they fit prefectly.

 

[jdbwrx]

Question: What did you guys use for the 12mm x 1.25 pitch bolts that hold the caliper to the knuckle? I can only find grade 8.8 locally. Wondering if I need to try and find grade 10.9.

 

[seanyb505]

Does redrilling the rotors weaken them at all?

 

[woodkrawler]

Question for you guys: Do I need to get the WJ Caliper brackets and bolts from the JY WJ along with the knuckles or do the Caliper brackets and bolts come with the new parts?

 

[monkeyevil]

Does redrilling the rotors weaken them at all?

Properly torqued wheels rely on friction to hold the rotor, not the studs. So no, not really. Even if it was just he holes and studs, dual drilling the rotors really doesn't compromise strength at long as you have a clean hole and maybe even a small chamfer.

Question: What did you guys use for the 12mm x 1.25 pitch bolts that hold the caliper to the knuckle? I can only find grade 8.8 locally. Wondering if I need to try and find grade 10.9.

I'm not an engineer, so I replace suspension and steering bolts with the same grade or better. It's hard to find those 1.25 pitch bolts in any grade most places, I'd order 10.8 from McMaster carr.

Question for you guys: Do I need to get the WJ Caliper brackets and bolts from the JY WJ along with the knuckles or do the Caliper brackets and bolts come with the new parts?

You want the brackets and ideally a pair of calipers to turn in as cores.

 

[jdbwrx]

Yeah, the more I thought about it, the less I liked the idea of only using the grade 8.8. 10.9 in that size/pitch are hard to find, as Mcmaster among other places didn't have them.
Mcmaster did have grade 12.9 in a 12mm 1.25pitch, but it has an allen style head. I just went with those. Brakes are not an area I want to scrimp on bolt strength. I don't think the 10mm allen head size will be an issue. I think there will be plenty of shoulder on the bolt to work in that spot.