Winch on trailer... questions

xjintx

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Eddy, TX
OK, I do not want to have to use a come-a-long ;)

I have a couple questions and need your .02 :

1. The plan is an inexpensive Harbor Freight 3000 lb winch if I can't find a better $150 one on CL. I think 3000 is OK for just trailering a dead truck... thoughts?

2. The winch will not remain on trailer when not actually towing something. So I will remove after trips. My plan is to use http://www.remybattery.com/Products/50-Amp---10-and-12-Gauge-SB-Plug-Gray__124101.aspx type connectors. One end on winch the other in my tow vehicle bed (F250 Superduty). I don't think the added length of cable from tow vehicle battery to the bed will add too much amperage... would it?

3. I have a good piece of flat steel plate to bolt winch on trailer but would like to have an easier way to mount and remove... any ideas? Maybe something like the receiver type cradles they sell?
 
To go from the front of the vehicle to the trailer and still run a winch with a fair amount of power, you should use at least 4 gauge, if not 2 gauge. Also you should use at least 175 amp connectors if not 350 amp.

The easier and cheaper method would be to put a battery on the trailer and charge it using power coming through the trailer hookup. That way it would recharge as you drive. Doing that would allow you to get by with probably 10 gauge wire. Wiring with 2 gauge can cost more than the winch.
 
Most pulls to put a vehicle on a trailer are pretty short so you could use a snatchblock to double the power and the loss of speed isn't a big deal.
 
From personal experience the harbor frieght winch isn't even worth the 50 buucks. It won't pull a dead truck onto the trailer without some assistance. It will barely pull something stock on the trailer with fully aired tires. And it didn't last very long. I just went thru that situation...now shopping for an 8k lb winch. Probably a smittybilt xrc8 for about $300. Probably going to make it on a reciever mount and get a reciever mount for my tow rig also so I feel better about spending that much for the trailer.

As for mounting...when I did the harbor frieght winch I mounted it on a plate mount on the tongue with the roller fairlead attaced to the front rail. Next go around I'm going to use a reciever I have and make a mount that way...you can get a reciever off craigslist pretty cheap. For the power I have a battery mounted inside my strap box that runs to the winch and is charged from the truck. There is an aux 12v pin inside the plug for your trailer that isn't used that I wired into. I added a switch before the battery so I'm not always sending power to the battery if I don't want to. I also added 2 lights to the front of my trailer shining back over the deck that run off the battery and a switch for loading/unloading at night or if I need to fix something or whatever...
 
Considering most common vehicles can be put up onto a trailer using muscle power (one or two guys are usually sufficient,) you don't need much winch. Even a 3,000# is probably overkill - you could use an ATV winch (500-1,000#) and it would work fine. How much pushing force can two adult males generate?

The lighter winch should simplify mounting considerably, including making it easier to remove. It will also reduce the conductor requirements (since it will need much less current,) and reduce the size of the connector needed - both of which will reduce cost of the project.

I have pushed XJs onto flatbed trailers using muscle power, so I know it can be done. Since trailering isn't anywhere near a recovery operation (you're working on generally flat surfaces - save the ramps - you're not stuck in a hole, you should be working on fully inflated tyres, and you can have a number of other advantages working for you,) you just don't need as much raw power.

Since you don't need as large a winch for trailering, you can get something built decent without having to spend a good deal of money.

At least, that's my thinking. Granted, if you're going to do double-duty with the thing as a recovery winch for your rig, then get what you plan on needing for recovery ops - it will be far more than enough for trailering.
 
Considering most common vehicles can be put up onto a trailer using muscle power (one or two guys are usually sufficient,) you don't need much winch. Even a 3,000# is probably overkill - you could use an ATV winch (500-1,000#) and it would work fine. How much pushing force can two adult males generate?

The lighter winch should simplify mounting considerably, including making it easier to remove. It will also reduce the conductor requirements (since it will need much less current,) and reduce the size of the connector needed - both of which will reduce cost of the project.

I have pushed XJs onto flatbed trailers using muscle power, so I know it can be done. Since trailering isn't anywhere near a recovery operation (you're working on generally flat surfaces - save the ramps - you're not stuck in a hole, you should be working on fully inflated tyres, and you can have a number of other advantages working for you,) you just don't need as much raw power.

Since you don't need as large a winch for trailering, you can get something built decent without having to spend a good deal of money.

At least, that's my thinking. Granted, if you're going to do double-duty with the thing as a recovery winch for your rig, then get what you plan on needing for recovery ops - it will be far more than enough for trailering.


I disagree with juuuuust about everything just said... a 500-1000 lb winch will work fine? I definitely call BS on that, and I know for a fact and from experience that its wrong.

The 3000 pound winch w/ use of a snatchblock seems to be a good idea.
 
I disagree with juuuuust about everything just said... a 500-1000 lb winch will work fine? I definitely call BS on that, and I know for a fact and from experience that its wrong.

Boy I don't know where you come from or what you are trying to drag on you trailer, but unless you have a seized up axle or a trailer with no ramps, the smaller winch will be fine. I've been there, done that since probably before you were born.
 
not trying to start a giant argument or anything and i still stand by what i said because i dont think it, i know it. i will say the 1000 lb one maaaay work if youve got real nice long ramps but its still insufficient if you ask me... also we have those winches on the 4 wheelers at the deer lease and they are super wimpy... with the frustrations of a broken down rig, the last thing you want to deal with is a crappy ass winch to load your rig up
 
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For 400 bucks just buy the 8k lbs winch from warn! Ya a smaller one may work but why?? Put it on a receiver mount so you can use it for other things as well. Just my opinion
 
Ok, thanks for the input. Let me say I was talking about the Harbor Freight 3000 lb one for I think $150.

I really don't want to put much more money into it. For my Jeep I have an XRX8000 so it's covered... I'm really thinking about others. I agree a com-a-long is a PIA. I have one but would rather go the winch route.

Seeing as there is mixed input I will buy the HF 3000 lb and will keep you posted. My latest project does not have an engine in it yet so a winch will help!
 
If your gonna get a hf winch get the lil camoflauge one and get a coupon out of one of about 50 magazines. 49.99 and get a snatch block. And get the warranty on it. I thought the same thing. A snatch blocked 3k winch should be plenty. Until u start wantin to drag stuff on with flat tires. Or dragging various parts or whatever. I use my trailer for a lot. And that 3k winch didn't cut it. And if u think a "500-1000" winch is gonna cut it your really not usin your trailer much. Even getting some cars and small vehicles on there isn't real easy sometimes. Winching uphill. Broken drive parts. Etc etc. Perfect conditions on small vehicles the small winch will be fine. But if u have any plans to actually use your trailer...go for a bigger winch the first time
 
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