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Who here runs 35's on a D30

Kejtar said:
damn... I missed that part! (paint fumes must be getting to me). D35 and 35's is bad juju! Dont even THINK about it.

But Rusty said it would be Ok :D
 
yeah, when the D30 your on is a low pinion axle, I wouldn't recomend 4.88's in it. the CJ, TJ and ZJ D30's should not regear below 4.56's. I quite selling low pinion 4.88 gearsets for tj's. especially with 35"s. But the HP XJ d30 is fine for 4.88's. I had a TJ guy pay me to regear his front 30 to 4.88's which he promptly blew the following weekend on the trail. then he yanked that 30 and we put his ARB and shafts into an HP d30 and he put that back under his TJ. not a problem to this day.
Before I shoed up the 35"s I was running 33"s on 4.88 gears with an auto. I could still spin 80mph on the hwy and it crawled awsome. RPM's were a little higher than I'd like but it ran fine.
when I step up to my 37"s in the coming weeks as I get my axles built, I'm gearing with 5.38"s I think. maybe 5.13's but I have either so I might just go 5.38's for the hell of it.
 
cal said:
35's with 4.56 does suck goat balls though, compared to 4.88.


A 6.5% difference sucks balls??? I have to disagree. There is no shortage of power or hill climbing ability associated with 35's and 4.56's versus 4.88's. You may think it feels better, but the difference is negligible.

Want to race?
 
JohnX said:
A 6.5% difference sucks balls??? I have to disagree. There is no shortage of power or hill climbing ability associated with 35's and 4.56's versus 4.88's. You may think it feels better, but the difference is negligible.
x2 im happy with 35's and 4.56. Though if i could i would have gone 4.88(8.25 rear end)

D30 Alloy USA 27spline, spicer joints, ARB havent broken yet. :D
 
cloudswimmer said:
I do plan on 4.88's myself, but interesting note, I have quite a few Rick Russell videos, and a lot off the Jeeps in em on 35's are running 4.56's doing some pretty gnarly trails.Anyway on those Alloy USA Dana 30 chromoly kits do I want the 27 or 30 spline version, and how do I tell if I have vacuum disconnect or not?Its a 1996

Thanks


The 30 spline is stronger, you have to have the 30 spline locker to go with it of course. I did the 30, either will work.
 
cal said:
The 30 spline is stronger, you have to have the 30 spline locker to go with it of course. I did the 30, either will work.

Ok thanks.Ryan had mentioned 27 spline would be fine, just wanted a little more feedback.I've got the powetrax in there with the stock shafts so I guess 27 spline it is?Then I keep my stockers as trail spares?Also still not sure if I need the vacuum or non-vacuum disconnect version of the Alloy's.Thanks for the help, I'm just learning this stuff.
 
cloudswimmer said:
Ok thanks.Ryan had mentioned 27 spline would be fine, just wanted a little more feedback.I've got the powetrax in there with the stock shafts so I guess 27 spline it is?Then I keep my stockers as trail spares?Also still not sure if I need the vacuum or non-vacuum disconnect version of the Alloy's.Thanks for the help, I'm just learning this stuff.


Its the same thing, the disconnect version comes with an extra seal and a plate to delete the disconnect setup, but contains everything the non disconnect kit does and will work in both setups. Look at where the passenger side upper control arm mount is on the axle. If the axle tube looks like one piece from there to the diff, you have non disconnect. The disconnect axle will have a giant cast piece there.
 
i have an auto 6 cylinder with the 4.88 on 35" tires i didnt like it cuase the free way to me at 65 the rpm felt to high but thats just me.. but i did do well off road the only problem i have had in the front was going through a set of gears in two years... with the 4.88.... but in the rear with a dana 35 and the super 35 kit i wheeled the piss out of it on 35" tires and never had a problem in the rear.. but i am very light footed and dont hall bals up a hill. if i cant crawl it i wont do it.. how big is the difference in the rear dana 35 from 27-30 spline axles???? i wouldnt even ask this question and i am thinking of giving up cuase as much as i know the dana 35 sucks but i still am persitant to run it my main concern is not the housing or anything like that. its speciafically axles the strengh between the 30spline and the 27 spline from usa alloy.... i am thinking of just getting the bigger axles and just changin out the arb guts to accept the 30 spline....
 
cal said:
Its the same thing, the disconnect version comes with an extra seal and a plate to delete the disconnect setup, but contains everything the non disconnect kit does and will work in both setups. Look at where the passenger side upper control arm mount is on the axle. If the axle tube looks like one piece from there to the diff, you have non disconnect. The disconnect axle will have a giant cast piece there.

So does this look like a non disconnect?

original.jpg
 
pureaddiction said:
i have an auto 6 cylinder with the 4.88 on 35" tires i didnt like it cuase the free way to me at 65 the rpm felt to high but thats just me.. but i did do well off road the only problem i have had in the front was going through a set of gears in two years... with the 4.88.... but in the rear with a dana 35 and the super 35 kit i wheeled the piss out of it on 35" tires and never had a problem in the rear.. but i am very light footed and dont hall bals up a hill. if i cant crawl it i wont do it.. how big is the difference in the rear dana 35 from 27-30 spline axles???? i wouldnt even ask this question and i am thinking of giving up cuase as much as i know the dana 35 sucks but i still am persitant to run it my main concern is not the housing or anything like that. its speciafically axles the strengh between the 30spline and the 27 spline from usa alloy.... i am thinking of just getting the bigger axles and just changin out the arb guts to accept the 30 spline....
ok, I rarely come out and say it, but this time I have to. Do you realize how hard was your post to reard with your punctuation and lack of capitalization and no paragraphs??
 
Kejtar said:
ok, I rarely come out and say it, but this time I have to. Do you realize how hard was your post to reard with your punctuation and lack of capitalization and no paragraphs??

theres plenty of punctuation in there!

pureaddiction said:
."..........".....-????.........
(letters and numbers omitted for clarity)

you know, its funny... i actually understand his post better this way :D
 
pureaddiction said:
ok i dont want to steal your spotlight away.. but i am in the same problem but with the rear cuase on my front i have been running the detroit tru trac with 4.88 on 35" tires and i beat the cra out of it with no problems same goes for the rear that had the supiror super 35 kit that has the 30 spline shafts wiht the detroit locker and i never had any issues with those either wit 35" tires.. but now on my new jeep i have usa alloy 27 spline shaft in the rear with 4;56 gears and arb air locker has any one run 35" tires with just aftermarket shafts and grears and locker and have any problems with 35's

I broke a 44 shaft on 33's (stock 30 spline shaft) without doing much at JV on the Friday before. I was parnoid about the D35 and wanted it gone before it broke on me. A D35 with 35's in unpolished or polished turd state is going to explode at the worst moment. That's the first thing which should be upgraded if you're contemplating bigger tires.
 
the 35's fail not because of the shafts specifically. its more a result of housing failure. If you saw the pile of scrap 35's I had before going to the scrap yard you'd understand. a super 35 kit is still only as good as the housing which is the real crappy part. almost every single 35 housing I've removed was bent. some will cause lockers to fail before shafts fail. the shafts need to enter the housing true. any misalignment and the shaft gets flexed under the working angle. splines fail to engage evenly and correctly and the shaft fails. I've seen super 35's fail this way as well.
I've also seen 35's fail at the ring gear due to the fact that they only have 8 ring gear bolts. they've gone loose and broken. I've seen carriers break and more than enough spider gears missing teeth.
Something like a 2000# buggy with a small 4cyl engine and 33"s and sure you can run a 35. but its a piece of crap.
why do you think the mfg's fail the warranty on super 35 kits when used with tires over 31"?
 
thank for the the imput that is what i have been trying to get out of someone that has dealt with this irst hand .... eveyone just says dont run it they suck period.. and i know that but with my circumstances its all i have to use ..... so thanks again... well the housing is trussed so i hope that helps a little bit. but i guess we are just going to find out lol
 
pureaddiction said:
thank for the the imput that is what i have been trying to get out of someone that has dealt with this irst hand .... eveyone just says dont run it they suck period.. and i know that but with my circumstances its all i have to use ..... so thanks again... well the housing is trussed so i hope that helps a little bit. but i guess we are just going to find out lol

You mean your running 35's on a trussed Super 35?
 
JohnX said:
A 6.5% difference sucks balls??? I have to disagree. There is no shortage of power or hill climbing ability associated with 35's and 4.56's versus 4.88's. You may think it feels better, but the difference is negligible.

Want to race?
x3. Especially if you have stroker power.:laugh:
 
i agree with corbin. i'm running 4:56 with 35 maxxis big horns. alloy usa axels in my d30. there was a 150 rpm difference between the 33's and the 35's on the tach. it's a little slower but still running about 2600 rpm at 75 mph on the freeway, which still leaves it in the 4.0 l powerband....
by the way, this is my daily driver
 
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