Where do I go from here?

[loki_racer]

We ran our 2nd ECORS race yesterday. DNF'd in the first lap (again) because of a snapped axle shaft (short side) and broken ball joint.

I'm looking for some recommendations on where to go from here. Do I ditch the D30 (with Spartan locker, Riddler diff, WJ conversion - big brakes and high steer, TNT customs trackbar and histeer axle bracket) completely and go to a D44? Do I upgrade the axle shafts to chromoly and keep the D30?

We don't have the same limitations on mods as JeepSpeed, so basically anything goes for mods. I am considering bumping up a class, which would allow me to move from 33" tires to anything up to 40" tires.

Mods already in the pipeline are interior cage and antirock.

Thanks for the input.

The carnage:

 

[rossmiller00]

Out of curiosity do you plan on changing your rear axle as well if you go to a D44 front? Is your D30 trussed? My thought would be to upgrade to at least a D44 and 9" if you are braking ball joints on a D30 with 33's. just my .02

 

[loki_racer]

I forgot to mention that I have to run 1.5" wheel spacers because the 15" rims won't fit the WJ brakes. Not sure if this adds to the equation, but if I moved up a class, I would remove the spacers.

If I change the D30 out, I would most likely change the rear. I was thinking 8.25", but am open to suggestions on every aspect of this rebuild.

Neither my D30 or D35 are trussed.

 

[XJLI]

what u-joints are you running?

 

[89eliminator]

i did the EXACT same thing a few weeks back. i contemplated getting a 44 but i just have too much time and money into my 30. plus that was the only problem i have ever had with it.

 

[silverslk]

I would forget moving up a class. Your rig can't handle 33's yet why would you want to go to a class where people are running 40's? You would never get a 40 to work and with 35-37's you wouldn't have enought tire to compete.

DITCH the 35 out back and put a 8.8 or 44 back there (trussed).

KEEP the 30 up front but READ some builds in this section and copy the trussing/bracing work and slap some NOT STOCK axles in it. You will be fine.

 

[loki_racer]

Main reason for the move up in class would be the competitors. I think there we 19 in Class A and 5 in Class B this race.

I guess what I'm looking for is should I continue to invest money in a D30, or make the break for a D44 and cut my loses on the D30. If I can build the D30 to handle my driving and 33"s, then I'm good with buying new shafts and trussing it.

 

[Gerr]

Looks to me like you could make the 30 work a Hell of a lot cheaper than building 2 new axles. Use the saved money for the cage and later build axles if you want.

 

[silverslk]

D30's are under most the Jeepspeed rigs and they do just fine when prepped for the abuse they will be given. And they run 33's too

 

[DieselSJ]

What broke first - axle or ball joint? Axle/u-joint can break and shear the ball joint, or the ball joint can fail which causes the axle to break.

44 is heavy.

Go with aftermarket axles, good aftermarket u-joints, and quality (not Autozone specials) ball joints and you should be fine. We've never lost an axle, u-joint or ball joint while racing. And don't plan on more than a couple races on a ball joint. If you have unlimited funds, get the housing modified to take a uniball in place of the lower joint.

Alternately, one of the JS teams has a 30 for sale that has been modified to use king pins. JS outlawed them for 2011 so you could have a killer housing for cheap.

Personally I'd worry more about trussing that housing (which you would have to do with a 44 too) because it will break. Not "might" break...will break.

 

[loki_racer]

I'm not sure which broke first. There was a lot going on, vehicles flying around us, off camber, etc., so I didn't have time to check. I had to power off the course.

Here's a video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ISIrPPfXAGg&hd=1

Looks like we will probably truss the D30. Andy at IronMan4x4Fab has some ideas, and his stuff is beef, so we're waiting to see what he has in his magic bag.

 

[aparke4]

ya let andy have at it :looser:

no really - let him have a go around and then take it back out - he should be able to get you guys worry free on 33's at any speed

 

[ktm racer 419]

what u-joints are you running?

x2.

if that went first, then it would be like "eff you ball joint" and take it out

i have broken my share of u joints in front. but when i run SPICER u-joints (760's specifically), i break outer alloy d44 shafts first (6 or 7 times that happened)

 

[XJLI]

in the video you posted you hear a snap and you say "oh that was an axle shaft." then CONTINUE driving, attempting to make a three point turn until you got out to look at it.

thats just retarded and obviously why you destroyed everything.

my original question still stands.

 

[loki_racer]

in the video you posted you hear a snap and you say "oh that was an axle shaft." then CONTINUE driving, attempting to make a three point turn until you got out to look at it.

thats just retarded and obviously why you destroyed everything.

my original question still stands.

"Retarded" seems like a harsh way to put it. My rig was in the middle of the course. I know people passed me on the side, but I was not really in a spot to stop and check it out. It wasn't like I didn't know something had happened. I appreciate you helping me determine if I should truss the front or swap it for something bigger.

Stock u joints as far as I know. I never checked them and the only thing I've done to the axle was drop a lunchbox locker in it.


I can only run one locker (class rules). With that being said, would I be better served to ditch the D30 locker and go with a super 35 kit, or ditch the D30 locker and go with a 8.25 29 spline and locker?

 

[kastein]

Do not put money into your d35. For any reason. You are on borrowed time racing it on 33s anyways. Go for a 29 spline 8.25.

Also, continuing under power is why that balljoint is the way it is. If you had managed to stop where the shaft/ujoint blew up, the balljoint would probably still be intact.

EDIT: what year is your XJ? i.e. what Ujoints are you running? 260s or 297/760 size? You really should have upgraded to 760s before going out, and probably done full circle clips...

 

[ktm racer 419]

Stock u joints as far as I know. I never checked them and the only thing I've done to the axle was drop a lunchbox locker in it.

so you dont even know what size you have or if they are spicers or not?

start there before thinking about upgrading axles

 

[tjcrawler97]

If your staying in class A keep the 30 but if your moving too class B then the 44 is a must imo. Also keep in mind this course for class A was the most difficult all year. Next year it will prob stay the same or get harder to keep the interst. Alot of guys were running 30s up front with 33s and beat them. After watching the video, I dont know why yours snapped so easy. I beat my with 35's and 760 joints and do fine. Figure out what class you want to run and build it for the class.

 

[loki_racer]

I'm pretty set on Class A now. I was thinking about B, but don't think I want to make the change.

So it looks like I will ditch the D30 locker, make sure it has 760 joints, and truss it. Then ditch the D35 and replace with a 8.25 and whatever locked I can get a deal on.

Thanks for the pointers everyone.

 

[DieselSJ]

Definitely ditch the front locker and lock the rear.