wheel bearing removal

L

live24wheel

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Phoenix
I was going to replace my driver side ujoint in the front of my 90 when I ran into a problem. The three bolts that hold it on will not come out. I have the sockets for it but the sockets are just about completely trying to strip the bolts. Im guessing they are locktighted in there, what does it take to get them off???

Tom
 
Personally, I haven't seen them loctited in. Having said that, I'm probably going to have to burn off the heads on a friend's XJ on Monday. We tried a few weeks ago, and they just wouldn't budge.
 
It's a 12 point bolt. Standard sockets WILL NOT grab it right. Put a wrench on it, and smack that sucker with a hammer.

Assuming you have 12point sockets, try to tighten them a small amount..that usually breaks them free.
 
Another little trick is to use a center or prick punch and set it dead centre on the bolt head. Fetch ONE good whack with a hammer - that usually breaks up any rust or crud that may have settled in.

If that doesn't work, you'll need a fine torch tip. Heat the head up, and give it ONE good whack again.

If that doesn't work (it is rare that it does not) you've got a job ahead of you.

5-90
 
The best thing to use is a box end wrench with another on the end for torque, you may need to put some penetrating oil on them or heat them up a bit. Mine came off pretty easy once they broke free, i would stay away from using a socket unless it is brand new, but, think you will have better luck with a wrench and cheater wrench. When mine did break free, i thought i snapped the bolt heads off! Mine is an 87 and i would almost bet they were originals with the 263k miles on them.

Good luck...

Cory
 
What kind of box end wrench did you use, just a regular multi point? Mines a 90 with 173,000 so hopefuly I can get it off. I will try the box end tomarrow if I can find the right one along with a good whack with a punch.

Tom
 
Those bolts are supposed to be 13 millimeter 12 point. They are very tight, sometimes, and if you're trying to do it with a 3/8 inch socket, and especially if it's a cheap on, it won't happen. It's worse if some previous owner messed up the heads. Get a 1/2 inch drive 12 point socket in 1/2 inch size rather than 13 mm. It is a tight fit on a 13 mm head, but it will go on without damage if you tap it on with a hammer, and it will not slip.
 
Matthew Currie said:
if you're trying to do it with a 3/8 inch socket, and especially if it's a cheap on, it won't happen. Get a 1/2 inch drive 12 point socket in 1/2 inch size rather than 13 mm. It is a tight fit on a 13 mm head, but it will go on without damage if you tap it on with a hammer, and it will not slip.
Click to expand...
x2.
By the way, They're supposed to be torqued to 75 ft-lbs. That should give you an idea of how tight they are. Add mileage and rust and they can be tough to break free.

K
 
Put 13mm wrench on there (box end), pound wrench with sledge hammer. If it still ain't happening, heat it up a bit with a torch. If it don't come off then.. I dunno. I've done lots of them and never had to do more than that.
 
I'm going to 3rd the 1/2" 12 point in 1/2" drive. I had read that it was a 13mm 12 point but found a 1/2" fits ALOT better. I've always just used a 12 point socket and never had any crazy problems.

Its usually the main center 36mm that I have problems with. We have put a power bar on it and drove forward or reverse to crack it loose with the power bar against the ground.
 
Spanky414 said:
I'm going to 3rd the 1/2" 12 point in 1/2" drive. I had read that it was a 13mm 12 point but found a 1/2" fits ALOT better. I've always just used a 12 point socket and never had any crazy problems.

Its usually the main center 36mm that I have problems with. We have put a power bar on it and drove forward or reverse to crack it loose with the power bar against the ground.
Click to expand...
Found a really easy way to do that but you need two people. When taking the 36mm nut off leave the rotor and caliper attached. Have someone apply the breaks while you use a long cheater bar or jack handle over your ratchet, then break the nut free. Works like a champ. Had my wheel hub off and new one one in about 15 mins.


Ray
 
A good impact is all i needed for the 36mm, broke two 1/2" breaker bars using cheater pipes before giving up and heading ot a buddies shop...

Cory
 
Heres what I do on ALL my tough nutz. I get the bernzomatic propane torch out. I heat those little suckers till they are up to maximum temperature. Let it get as hot as you can. Then immediatly after torching the living hell out of it I spray it with alot of PB Blaster. The extreme heat sucks the PB into the threads. The same principal as sweating solder into a plumbing fixture. Then get the wrench on it and twist.
This has never ever failed for me.
 
outlawjeep said:
Found a really easy way to do that but you need two people. When taking the 36mm nut off leave the rotor and caliper attached. Have someone apply the breaks while you use a long cheater bar or jack handle over your ratchet, then break the nut free. Works like a champ. Had my wheel hub off and new one one in about 15 mins.


Ray
Click to expand...


Thats pretty much what we did except we left the wheel on, then a guy jumped up and down on the breaker bar and it still didn't crack loose. Thats why we had to put it against the ground and drive forwards.

Now we just use an impact and don't have any problems but without one I would use our method again.
 
Alright, I was able to get it off with little effort from a propane torch, 13mm box end wrench and a small sledge to tap on the wrench to break it free. I got it all apart and now im wondering what you guys do to get those 4 caps off of the u-joint cap area???
 
live24wheel said:
Alright, I was able to get it off with little effort from a propane torch, 13mm box end wrench and a small sledge to tap on the wrench to break it free. I got it all apart and now im wondering what you guys do to get those 4 caps off of the u-joint cap area???
Click to expand...
The caps on the axle u-joints are held on by inside c-clips. The clips fit into grooves in the cap on the insides of the yokes. They are often masked by crud build up. Clean the crud off, and you WILL find them there.
 
live24wheel said:
i can see like letters on them iff I remember right, where do I find the clips exactly...
Click to expand...
the clips are on the INNER side of the axle shaft yoke around the inner edge of the end caps... use a flat blade screwdriver to tap them out..
 
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