What would you rather get (if you had to)

You might have to readjust your linkage, not sure never dropped min, but if so it is easy to do
 
Just curious if anyone knows if the Rusty's kit has a removable belly pan for access to the t-case. The TNT kit does not have this, Correct? That is the only thing bad about the kit that i can tell.
 
I just downloaded the manual for the rusty's xj long-arm lift kit. (http://www.rustysoffroad.com/instructions/605lt.pdf)

the setup is a 4-link radius configuration, and the "skid" is just a beefy x-member that the LAs bolt to. With the tnt kit you get a full high clearance skid (3/4" better than stock advertised) that acts as a frame stiffener in that area. If you don't like the idea of the t-case drop may i suggest 1" spacers between the t-case and the skid/xmember?
 
I might actually go w/ the TNT kit now. Seriously though what is the downside to lowering the t case an inch? I have always heard DONT DO IT. But i need to know what the actual downside is.
 
There are not any downsides of lowering the Tcase other then the lose of clearance that i can think of. The reason people often lower their Tcases is to attempt to help get rid of vibrations caused by bad drive shaft angles. This is a half ass fix for most cases, the proper fix being a sye and a new drive shaft. As for the tcase linkage, you just need to adjust it after dropping the case. Its simply common sense.
 
I dunno... I've heard it too, Maybe too much SYE stock ownership??? It works fine on my POS. The t-case handle is adjustable, so blaming a hard shift on a 1" drop is like blaming "death wobble" on the wrong brand coils in my book.
 
its not the handle, but the linkage below it. still, it only takes a minute or two to do
 
sintax said:
There are not any downsides of lowering the Tcase other then the lose of clearance that i can think of. The reason people often lower their Tcases is to attempt to help get rid of vibrations caused by bad drive shaft angles. This is a half ass fix for most cases, the proper fix being a sye and a new drive shaft. As for the tcase linkage, you just need to adjust it after dropping the case. Its simply common sense.

If you lower the back to decrease the drive line angle does it not increase the angle of the front shaft? How come I never here of front driveshaft problems? Cause it already has a double cardan?
 
geo you drop the entire t-case. you usually dont run into front shaft problems until you get really big.

fdsa, if your asking me i dont have long arms. still short until funds allow and a few other things get taken care of.
 
Ramsey said:
geo you drop the entire t-case. you usually dont run into front shaft problems until you get really big.

fdsa, if your asking me i dont have long arms. still short until funds allow and a few other things get taken care of.

If you don't have a set of long arms, then why are you commenting and confusing the issue?
 
what the hell do long arms have to do with adjusting the damn linkage on a transfer case
 
Ramsey said:
what the hell do long arms have to do with adjusting the damn linkage on a transfer case

He was worried about the 1'' drop in the TNT Customs kit. That if the t-case is lowered weather or not the linkage will bind up. I dont think yuo will have a problem. If your linkage doesen't engage then just adj. it ,only takes a few minutes.

Sorry MDMike already sold them to a buddy of ours.

fdsa487 I havent seen a better bolt on long arm kit than TNT. If you have any question Contact them. www.tntcustoms.com or give them a call.
 
Appalachianxj said:
He was worried about the 1'' drop in the TNT Customs kit. That if the t-case is lowered weather or not the linkage will bind up. I dont think yuo will have a problem. If your linkage doesen't engage then just adj. it ,only takes a few minutes.

Sorry MDMike already sold them to a buddy of ours.

fdsa487 I havent seen a better bolt on long arm kit than TNT. If you have any question Contact them. www.tntcustoms.com or give them a call.
and again someone completely missed the point.
 
fatwreck said:
What's not to like? You don't lose any clearance by having it. Not my pictures, but they show what's going on pretty well:

Stock crossmember vs. TNT crossmember:
588437_137_full.jpg


Side shot that shows how flat the setup is:
588437_152_full.jpg


Not meaning to hi-jack here
I was doing some reading on the TNT long arm and looking at the pics on the web site and looks to me from the pics there isnt very much up travel.. looks like the arms are hitting the uni-frame? look very close sitting level.? pics of a tire stuffed in the fender? I know some people dont care much for the up travel.. but I like it....I just want to know if the arms DO hit the frame or not...
 
Jes said:
Im confused as to what issues you're talking about. :confused1

I'm with this cabin 12 guy... Happiness is finding what you are seeking...

I'd rather piece together a lift that suited me than buy a box set that compromised what I was after.
 
a good point, i'm doing both :D but hey you gotta learn one way or another
 
woody said:
I'm with this cabin 12 guy... Happiness is finding what you are seeking...

I'd rather piece together a lift that suited me than buy a box set that compromised what I was after.

I am on the path to enlightenment.
Rustys, RE, and TNT can't get me there.
Only the magnet kids can show me the way.
 
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