What Next to fix DW....

I did not have any hint of DW before my lift, it all happend after the lift.

I would get tires but the situation is at a problem. I have removed the flairs, and have done trimming to fit 32" or am willing to do more trimming to do 33" so I would need to do all 4 tires if i was to replace tires. I am trying to pay bills of and save some money to get some of the BFG MT's (gen 2) when they come out. It does not look like 1,000 will be in my lap by the time of my trip...

I will try another tire rotation and drop the tire pressure.

I hope that the new bushings and a new SS will help. Next is to get a HD bracket and the RE HD tie rod with spicer ends...
 
Could slopy axle u-joints cause DW? I was thinking back when I pulled teh shafts to do the Ball Joints and remember looking at the joints and it looks like they are the stock joints, and I am rolling over 155K miles, and are fairly cheep to replace.
 
Take a tape measure and make sure your alignment is within spec (I don't trust some shops) http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoAlignment.htm
In my experience, if it's a hair off it will cause DW.

Then I'd do what others have mentioned and make sure the frame & axle side bolts are as tight as posible on the track bar.

FWIW, I'm in the process of dong some front end work. Right now I'm driving around with an over the axle track bar, stock steering, no stabilizer or sway bar (not recomended), and have zero bump steer or DW.

IMHO, it has everything to do with a proper alignment.

Also, if the frame side trackbar TRE is loose, replace the mount.
 
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will the RE HD bracket fit the JKS Adjustable Track Bar?
 
The RE HD track bar has a superflex joint at the end that slides into the RE HD bracket. If the JKS trackbar uses a standard TRE than no.
 
I just had a brain fart...
I bet 90% of DW is caused by that stupid TRE at the frame. I think there is too much latitudinal play in it.
 
So RE HD bracket wont work...

who makes a HD bracket that I can swap it out for? or do i just get a stock replace?
 
Magus2727 said:
So RE HD bracket wont work...

who makes a HD bracket that I can swap it out for? or do i just get a stock replace?

I just went to JKS site and saw that they use a JJoint at the frame end. It should work with the RE bracket. I'd still call RE or JKS and make sure. At the very least you could put a 1/2 washer in there to snug it up.

Hope that helps.
 
The RE only takes a 2 " joint and the JKS has a 2.5" joint. Also the bends would bind on the rest of the suspension with the twisting of the bar...
 
I didn't use air, it would have been easier.
I used big wrenches, 8# BFH, P.B. Blaster, and a little MAPP gas.
Beer and a few choice words.

Before trying to break loose bolts, place a socket or piece of wood on bolt head and give it a good solid wack. Trust me it'll help.
 
well I will be installing it next monday (not in two days) as we shall see how it goes...
 
The easiest way to find the problem if it is from worn parts is to have somebody crank the wheel back and forth while you are looking under the front. Any worn tie rod ends or loose track bar parts will be found this way. To check the ball joints jack up one side at a time under the axle and with one hand on the top and one on the bottom of the tire and try to wiggle that sucker. If there is any play they are shot. It's east to get flustered and start replacing everything and just waste of cash. I didn't see anywhere what you are running for control arms. Your caster could be way off. Stock length arms with a 5" lift is going to throw things off a bit. Good luck.
 
I guess my sig is a little miss leading. I have only a 3.5 inch lift all around. I have RE 3.5" springs up front with NO spacers, then the Q-tec HD springs with the 1.5" TF BB shackle.

So i am only at 3.5" of lift. I have stock control arms, I have New Ball Joints (Moog, just replaced last week)
 
Here are some pics of the Control Arms.

DSC01273.JPG


Of the Driver side Lower CA Bushing

DSC012761.JPG


Pass Upper Control Arm

DSC01274.JPG




I do have a little wiggle on Track bar to the body mount but I am not sure how much play is designed to be there. It was on pavement that I was turnning and they are bushings. but it was only moving a few mm and it looked like it was because of the bushing.

There is no play in the track bar at the axle connection it was solid

when the stering was going back and forth I could not see or feel any slop. the rod ends do look alittle worn.

Driver Side Tie Rod End

DSC01284.JPG


Drang Link Knuckle End

DSC01282.JPG


Tie Rod to Drag link End

DSC01283.JPG
 
Magus2727 said:
I do have a little wiggle on Track bar to the body mount but I am not sure how much play is designed to be there.

None. I'd say that is your problem.
Your control arms are perfectly fine.
 
bshaw said:
just my two pennies, but I'd have to say there's your problem. especially if your arm angles are shitty.
take a look at this...... scroll down to the bottom of the page and start reading where it states' "How long should the Control Arms be??"

That says my upper are fine and my lower are .25" to .5" short. Would that cause DW?

So what Track bar is the biggest and most HD that alows for a new braket.

http://www.kevinsoffroad.com/tbconversion.html looks like its a special JKS with a drop braket. I am kind of leary going with JKS again after there amazing customer service.
 
wannajeep said:
The easiest way to find the problem if it is from worn parts is to have somebody crank the wheel back and forth while you are looking under the front. Any worn tie rod ends or loose track bar parts will be found this way. To check the ball joints jack up one side at a time under the axle and with one hand on the top and one on the bottom of the tire and try to wiggle that sucker. If there is any play they are shot. It's east to get flustered and start replacing everything and just waste of cash. I didn't see anywhere what you are running for control arms. Your caster could be way off. Stock length arms with a 5" lift is going to throw things off a bit. Good luck.
what would you be looking for when you have somebody turning the wheel? some popping or jumping in the steering?

not trying to steal the thread but anyone know how long the lower CA's that come with the RC 4.5" kit? they are the tube arms. they are probably too short because im at more like 6.5" now. im getting DW at 40+MPH. at this point i would be happy with DW at 65+MPH.
 
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