JohnX
Sarge
- Location
- Williams AZ
Ever having to work on it would scare the hell outta me, Nissan is notorious for bolting everything to each other....to change a wiper blade you have to remove the windshield, etc.
Side note, a friend of mine has had the dodge eco diesel for about 6 months. Consistently over 20mpg with a 3k lb trailer hooked up around town. 29mpg on his last tank of mostly highway, no trailer. Pulls a car trailer with vehicle at least as well as a 1 ton truck from the 90's.
I'm pretty impressed, can't wait to see if it lasts half a million miles or not.
I have been curious too but I haven't seen it and if the Nissan engineers are consistent, then the best part about the truck will be the motor and everything else extremely underwhelming.
Side note, a friend of mine has had the dodge eco diesel for about 6 months. Consistently over 20mpg with a 3k lb trailer hooked up around town. 29mpg on his last tank of mostly highway, no trailer. Pulls a car trailer with vehicle at least as well as a 1 ton truck from the 90's.
I'm pretty impressed, can't wait to see if it lasts half a million miles or not.
I would love to hear some specific input from people that tow with half tons.
I have a 2016 Silverado with a V8 (Z71) and the hitch has a 12,000# sticker on it.
I am curious about the prospect of towing my XJ, it would be going over passes and what not (live in CO and Moab is a must).
Used to tow with my old mans 2010 f150 - v8.
Towed awesome with a double axle behind it. averaged 13 or so from springs to west slope.
Unlock the steering but put a couple bungee cords on the steering wheel to help it return to center.
Just remember, simply because the hitch is rated for that weigh doesn't mean the truck is. Always look in the owners manual for the rated limit of the vehicle.I would love to hear some specific input from people that tow with half tons.
I have a 2016 Silverado with a V8 (Z71) and the hitch has a 12,000# sticker on it.
I am curious about the prospect of towing my XJ, it would be going over passes and what not (live in CO and Moab is a must).
I know this is old but why start a new one....
Anyone care to inform me how you're strapping the rear axle? My 8.25 has a brake line running all the way across, leaving no where to wrap a axle strap around it. Was thinking about using the leaf spring top plate as a catch but would be curious to see how you guys do it.
I go to the d ring mounts on the rear bumper and front tie down holes on the front. Compressing the suspension keeps it from bouncing. On long hauls I will add a strap to each axle. For the rear on my D60 there is a spot I can slip the strap under the brake line. GAMike just replaced a rear from being bent form chaining it down. At least that is what he theorizes bent it.
I know this is old but why start a new one....
Anyone care to inform me how you're strapping the rear axle? My 8.25 has a brake line running all the way across, leaving no where to wrap a axle strap around it. Was thinking about using the leaf spring top plate as a catch but would be curious to see how you guys do it.
Right on but I will not tie down with the bumpers or unibody holes. Just personal preference. I tried googling around and searched multiple forums, couldn't come up with any pics of how guys do it.
Just think of it like this, when they were delivered from the factory they were chained down to the car hauler through those holes in the unibody frame rails. Trust me, the metal is much thicker in the areas out back that I described in my last post. When I added my frame rail stiffeners I forgot to measure where the slots were. I went back and added my own but missed the factory holes. With my stiffeners the total material thickness was around 3/8" thick so that would put the factory holes at around 1/4" in that area due to the extra material sandwiched together there. It's made for this purpose so it's perfectly safe to use it.