What are you doing to your rig - the continuing saga

papasmurf said:
Im pulling the AX-15 out of my YJ if you need a good trans. Has a little over 100k on it.
Click to expand...

A YJ AX15 will be "clocked" differently than the XJ's. Puts the t-case up higher. They can be used, but the stock t-case shifter pivot points won't line up as the bracket on the side of the XJ trans won't bolt up to the now differently clocked t-case holes.

Ya generally have to go with a Novak t-case shifter to use a YJ trans in an XJ.

Just FYI....... :thumbup:
 
Thanks for the info. What about re drilling the holes in the trans, I see when the guys swap the AW4's into the TJ's and such they rotate the holes. Although the ground clearance would be nice. Is that the only thing that changes if you clock it up? I put the atlas in mine so I didnt have to worry about the linkage. I clocked it up as high as I could without cutting up the floor. Sorry for the rambling. Ive only worked on everyone else Cherokee, This is the first XJ I have owned so the more info I can get the better, as I see a couple more in the future.
 
Yeah, I imagine one could drill holes to clock it correctly.

My experience is that you have to do some minor floorboard clearancing to put a YJ trans in an XJ so that the t-case doesn't hit when moving under load. That and the shifter issue are likely the only real things to deal with.... IF you don't drill holes.
 
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Not sure, but IRO has a kit for reclocking a transfer case that makes it super easy to redrill the flange on the transmission. Not sure how much rotation needs to be done or whether there is enough space between the old holes and the new holes converting from a YJ to an XJ or vice versa, but it should be the same amount guys putting AW4s in YJs clock theirs by, so if they are ok it should be fine going the other way too I would think.

Also, I put an XJ AX15 and NP231 in a friend's YJ when I did a 4.0/EFI/AX15/NP231/8.25 conversion from the original 4.2/ecarb/A999/NP207/d35, and it came out a little close to the skid/crossmember but nothing unexpected. No clocking was done. So I'm not sure how big a deal it is really.
 
Yeah, XJ to YJ isn't a problem. YJ to XJ, It's mostly in the linkage brackets and pivot points if you're wanting to retain the OEM shifter and function.
 
kastein said:
Also, I put an XJ AX15 and NP231 in a friend's YJ when I did a 4.0/EFI/AX15/NP231/8.25 conversion from the original 4.2/ecarb/A999/NP207/d35, and it came out a little close to the skid/crossmember but nothing unexpected. No clocking was done. So I'm not sure how big a deal it is really.
Click to expand...

Swapping the t-case shouldnt matter. I believe its when you change transmissions, because the bolt pattern on the flange is different between an xj and yj. Thats where a clocking ring would be handy. But like Yella said then your linkage is going to be different, and would require modification or a cable shifter.
 
Yeah, I swapped an XJ AX15 over as well. It ended up with a Dakota transfer case shifter assembly and a YJ AX15 shift lever by the time it was all back together.

(the V6 5 speed Dakotas use an AX15 with the same tailhousing as the XJ*... and a very very very similar NP231. So a Dakota np231 shifter linkage and handle bolted right onto the XJ transmission and attached to the XJ NP231 as well, just required a significant amount of floor customization)

* in fact the 96 or so through 99 or so Dakota v6 5 speed transmission is exactly the same as an XJ one from the same year, but with a different bellhousing, shift lever ball cup, and shift lever. Having trouble finding an XJ AX15 but have a 4.0 bellhousing handy? Now you know where to get one, my local PAP always has at least 2-3 v6/5speed Dakotas out. Similar years to XJs got NV3550s with the same deal going, too, just swap the bellhousing.
 
Finally finished my tire carrier today. Still need to weld in the clevis mounts, but it's about 95%. I didn't take as many build pictures as I would've liked to because I was in a rush, but you get the gist.

Now I just need to get a 35" spare and I'll be golden.





 
Turned out nice brother.
 
Do they support ISO J2534 over ISO 9141K or is it a proprietary chrysler setup?

(the benefits of getting to read all those standards for work :D)
 
The version I am getting covers 1996 to 2006 ChryCo PCMs. Or, in other words, the generations of PCMs found in our rigs. Time will tell what can be done, but I have been assured that I will be able to eliminate the F/IC out of my Heep. With the caveat of speedometer calibration. At this point, it is unclear as to being able to get that done.

But for $350.00 what do you want? And you do program via the OBDII port as I understand it. I am sure, though, that others out there know way more than I and will be quick to point out just how wrong I am. Even though they do not own the software...

So, there is some fun to be had next year. Will have to wait until after the holidays as I just purchased a Brand New Eaton M90 compressor. Yup, not a Junk Yard part, a new one. In particular, a New Old Stock one that has never been fitted. A Service Replacement part for the Jaguar XJR 4 litre engine. Jaguar runs 12 pounds of boost with this compressor and the aftermarket provides pulleys to take that to 16 pounds. So, then, even more fun should I decide to fit the compressor onto my Heep. It may go elsewhere. Not sure at this writing.

Don't ask the price, you will just whine about it...

But I do need to pay it off prior to the next investment. At the least, I will be able to program for stroked engines...
 
Got myself a little Christmas eve present "Tires"
2la34oh.jpg

2ed8uug.jpg

fneqys.jpg

23r7sd1.jpg
 
Needs a high line up front and bigger openings out back. Definitely looking good David.

I'm not doing anything big to the JK yet, but I am going on a trip to Vegas to pick up a complete Hemi swap out of another JK.
 
Fixed the Tera-locker for the umpteenth time. This time, the end of the rod that guides the shift fork for the locker came off. Definitely got chewed up and shortened, but it was still long enough to work. Cleaned it with brake cleaner, blew it off with compressed air, doused it with loc-tite, and tightened it severely. Works in the driveway, anyway. :) Definitely needed a fluid change. lots of silver in there.
 
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