Kiefer316
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Littleton, Crawloardo
Good to know. But what exactly would you do to ditch it?
What are you doing to your rig - the continuing saga
- Thread starter old_man
- Start date
Frank Z
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado Springs
We removed it and used a couple hose clamps to connect to the in-radiator cooler.
time2getdirty
my cats breath smells
- Location
- Cheyenne, Wyoming
Frank. The reason I dont use the 3rd steering box bolt is ease of install. I have ran bumpers without that bolt for the past 4 years and my unibody dosnt have any cracks and I have done a lot of hard pulls. I do run a steering box stiffener I made though so that might help.
and more holes!
wasn't too thrilled with this process. I lack a certain attention to detail, so we'll see how will the rivet holes line up tomorrow. Sprayed the cuts with red rustoleum, so im letting it dry overnight.
Tried putting in my double sheer IRO track bar, but I could not get the 2 bolts to budge, even after hitting them with inforce for over a week. I've learned my lesson with every other bolt ive broken off, and it looks like I'm gonna take it to someone professional to put on this time.
What do you guys think labor would be on swapping out track bars? Only 5 bolts... I'd think no more than an hour by a pro with a lift and tools?
wasn't too thrilled with this process. I lack a certain attention to detail, so we'll see how will the rivet holes line up tomorrow. Sprayed the cuts with red rustoleum, so im letting it dry overnight.
Tried putting in my double sheer IRO track bar, but I could not get the 2 bolts to budge, even after hitting them with inforce for over a week. I've learned my lesson with every other bolt ive broken off, and it looks like I'm gonna take it to someone professional to put on this time.
What do you guys think labor would be on swapping out track bars? Only 5 bolts... I'd think no more than an hour by a pro with a lift and tools?
- Location
- Golden, CO
Swapping out track bars also includes centering the axle under the vehicle, if the TB is adjustable.
I couldn't even guess the hours a shop will quote for replacing the track bar, and the track bar bracket.
Joe94xj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- colorado Springs
Mitchell labor guide calls for .7 for the trac bar R&R. It may be more if you are swapping out the frame side mount. Just depends on the shop.
Yeah, the mount would be swapped out too.
I guess the key thing is for the old bolts and bar to come out. I could do the adjusting myself if they just get the old one out and the new one in.
So its kind of looking around an hour with the mount. That's worth me NOT shearing off anymore bolts and having to limp through the process of extracting them...
You would think it would be quicker to unbolt and remove the mount with the trackbar still connected than to just remove the track bar itself. 4 bolts should be easier than whatever tool is needed to pop the one end of the track bar off.
I guess the key thing is for the old bolts and bar to come out. I could do the adjusting myself if they just get the old one out and the new one in.
So its kind of looking around an hour with the mount. That's worth me NOT shearing off anymore bolts and having to limp through the process of extracting them...
You would think it would be quicker to unbolt and remove the mount with the trackbar still connected than to just remove the track bar itself. 4 bolts should be easier than whatever tool is needed to pop the one end of the track bar off.
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
Up here it is usually easier because the track bar nut corrodes badly.
The real problem is the axle end though. I have only had one of those come out without a fight. Buy a new bolt before you start... and a new nut. If you are going to a new track bar maybe go to one with an upgraded 9/16 or 1/2 bolt in that position and redrill the hole to fit.
The real problem is the axle end though. I have only had one of those come out without a fight. Buy a new bolt before you start... and a new nut. If you are going to a new track bar maybe go to one with an upgraded 9/16 or 1/2 bolt in that position and redrill the hole to fit.
- Location
- Golden, CO
I think YELLAHEEP may have a few of these on hand. If not, let me know and I'll get one in the mail for you.
:cheers:dannanw
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado Springs
4. 88's next to come 8.8...
I think YELLAHEEP may have a few of these on hand. If not, let me know and I'll get one in the mail for you.
Wouldn't the new bolt be too big for the bushings that came with the track bar? I cant find the sheet right now, but I know they sent me some new hardware, including a bolt for the axle side.
I might take you up on that bolt. I'm going to try to get the bar in sometime within the next 2 weeks before heading out to moab. Doesn't mean I cant take it off down the road and drill it out for a bigger one.
Vents in!
adrenalinepirate
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Lakewood,CO
Who's vents and how much?
Finally finished putting my rear bumper back together. I used the material I cut off the bottom corners to gusset the hitch. I also finished the mounts and got the them welded back onto the bumper face piece.
Question: It kind of looks to me like a couple of the welds on the hitch gussets weren't penetrating very well. I know with welding 3/16" to 1/4" I am pushing the limits of my Handler 140 (flux core .03"). Thoughts?
Question: It kind of looks to me like a couple of the welds on the hitch gussets weren't penetrating very well. I know with welding 3/16" to 1/4" I am pushing the limits of my Handler 140 (flux core .03"). Thoughts?
- Location
- Golden, CO
Actually, I was referring to the factory bolt and nut. Since IRO has already supplied that hardware, you should be in good shape. If you break the frame end fasteners, they should be easy enough to replace from the hardware store bins.
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
I believe the frame end ones are M10 coarse, they might be M12 coarse but I don't think so. Two thread into weldnuts in the driver motor mount and need to stay the same size but you can easily replace the upper ones that go through the fender wall with SAE if you so choose. Those two are (depending on year, earlier years were single piece hardware) bolts spotwelded to a strip of metal to make it easier to keep them in place while starting the nuts.
- Location
- Golden, CO
Yup, big honkin studs, 12x1.75 sounds about right. If you snap one of those, take a picture! I have yet to see one break.
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
I haven't broken one of those but I did twist off a unit bearing bolt (12x1.75) once. That really, really sucked.
Frank Z
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado Springs
Try chamfering (beveling) our joints more. 45 deg and half the thickness of the material.Question: It kind of looks to me like a couple of the welds on the hitch gussets weren't penetrating very well. I know with welding 3/16" to 1/4" I am pushing the limits of my Handler 140 (flux core .03"). Thoughts?
