What are you doing to your rig - the continuing saga

I finally have a solution to my trans issue that I've been chasing for almost 2 years (See post #613 of this thread)...........................................


I'm just going to get another rig, a '98 or '99, swap over some of my parts and upgrade others, then scrap/part out/donate to Troy the rest of it and be rid of the '97 curse.It has other smaller issues that helped influence the decision and its a decision I'm completely happy with.

It won't happen for a little while but it is going to happen- stay tuned. :greensmok
 
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If you really want to experience a curse you should get a '96 or even better, an '86 with the V6, chryco auto, NP22x tcase, and d35 rear :laugh2:

whose sig used to say that year/model was a "loose wet pile of mismatched turds"?
 
If you really want to experience a curse you should get a '96 or even better, an '86 with the V6, chryco auto, NP22x tcase, and d35 rear :laugh2:

whose sig used to say that year/model was a "loose wet pile of mismatched turds"?

What's the curse of the 96?
Cooling issues are my guess?
 
cooling is fine...

fuel delivery system parts (specifically fuel level sender assy) are unobtainium.

electrical system is half 95, half 97, and all retarded.

If they come with all the important bits they are fine but god help you if you ever need to get one of the rare ones. They simply don't make the fuel level sender iirc, either that or it was like 400+ dollars.

Now granted when I fixed mine (ended up putting a 97+ tank and sender in it and forgetting about ever using my fuel gauge again) I hadn't found NAXJA yet, so I had no idea I could get ahold of someone outside the rust belt and pay them to get me a rust free fuel level sender, but it's still a pain in the butt.
 
If you really want to experience a curse you should get a '96 or even better, an '86 with the V6, chryco auto, NP22x tcase, and d35 rear :laugh2:

You should buy my 86 Ken! :D
 
cooling is fine...

fuel delivery system parts (specifically fuel level sender assy) are unobtainium.

electrical system is half 95, half 97, and all retarded.

If they come with all the important bits they are fine but god help you if you ever need to get one of the rare ones. They simply don't make the fuel level sender iirc, either that or it was like 400+ dollars.

Now granted when I fixed mine (ended up putting a 97+ tank and sender in it and forgetting about ever using my fuel gauge again) I hadn't found NAXJA yet, so I had no idea I could get ahold of someone outside the rust belt and pay them to get me a rust free fuel level sender, but it's still a pain in the butt.

Huh.. Interesting, never heard about all that good stuff.
My 96 has only had cooling issues.
Maybe I got lucky... Lol
 
I'm pretty partial to the '96 rigs. I've owned and DD'd 2 of 'em. Loved everything about them. Both were Classics. Perfect combination of interior and options in my opinion.

It's the '97 model year that drives me to fits of rage...........
 
What's wrong with the 97s? More CEL issues? Wiring? They are basically the same as 96s but with new body style, plastic fuel tank, new interior, and some different connectors.
 
First year models are generally plagued with issues. That being said, I had zero issues with the 97 I had. Then again, I got it as a Fleet return in 2000 so it had had fair maintenance done on it. I sold it off in 2008.

Certainly, the 97s have a bad rap, here, for transmissions.

It is a general rule of thumb that by the time you figure out how to make it correctly, it is obsolete...
 
What's wrong with the 97s? More CEL issues? Wiring? They are basically the same as 96s but with new body style, plastic fuel tank, new interior, and some different connectors.

I've had 2 97's and never had any strange issues with mine other than some of the bulbs are from 96- models.
 
First year models are generally plagued with issues. That being said, I had zero issues with the 97 I had. Then again, I got it as a Fleet return in 2000 so it had had fair maintenance done on it. I sold it off in 2008.

Certainly, the 97s have a bad rap, here, for transmissions.

It is a general rule of thumb that by the time you figure out how to make it correctly, it is obsolete...
it's the same exact transmission as the 91-96s with slightly different connectors on the wiring harness, so I'm not sure why. The manual is literally exactly the same, too.

There really is no "first year" for XJs in the mid 90s. 90 they switched over the brakes and bearings and knuckles on the 4wd models and also went from 21 to 23 spline and from closed cooling system to open cooling. 91 they went to OBD 1 and changed the air conditioning compressor mount style, as well as (I think) making the 8.25 available. 92 they switched over the brakes/bearings/knuckles on 2wd models, and greatly improved the ABS setup. 93 they got rid of the CAD (iirc) and some other stuff that I forget. 94 they went to an external slave, changed the seat mounting (iirc, might have been 95), and I think went to the big ujoints on all models instead of just ABS ones, as well as deleting the fuel pump ballast resistor. 95 they went to a new steering wheel and cruise control switch setup and changed some connectors, and I think went to R134a (might have been 94.) 96 they added OBD 2, changed to the returnless fuel system, added the downstream o2 sensor, changed the rubber bushing on the cat mount from a half moon to a round bar, changed a lot more connectors, changed to a different fuel sender assembly, changed the belt routing and tensioning, new power steering pump, removed the idler by the thermostat housing, changed to the newer style transfer case output shaft and housing, added improved side impact bars in the doors, and went to 29 spline shafts in the 8.25. 97 they improved OBD 2, new body exterior, new body interior, new steering column, dual electronic airbags, new cruise control switches, CCD bus driven instrument panel, new fuel tank, new fuel sender assembly again, deleted the heater control valve (thank god), went to the improved air conditioning compressor hose attachment points (billet block with brazed lines and orings rather than flare nuts, thank god), made the TCU somewhat smarter, made heated mirrors available, changed the emergency brake cable routing, went to an RF RKE module mounted in the same location, moved the evap charcoal canister under the vehicle, and switched to a larger radio format. 98 they improved OBD 2 more, changed more connectors, made the TCU way smarter, went to an RF RKE module mounted in the dome light, and I believe added the leak detection pump system for the evap controls. 99 they upgraded the front brake rotors and unit bearings, new intake manifold, went to an electronic servo for the HVAC blend door. 00 and 01 just suck and I'm not going to say anything more about them... :roll:

Aside from the 86 to 87 switch (transfer cases, engines, transmissions, and engine management all changed across this year - all very major changes in my mind) and the 90 to 91 switch (RENIX to OBD 1) I can't think of a real well defined "split" anywhere in the production run. The 94/95/96/97/98 changes were very incremental in nature. Sure there were more of them from 96 to 97 but they didn't really make a defining change - IMO, Chrysler would have made all the 94-98 changes in around 97 or 98 if the feds hadn't legislated a lot of those changes before they were ready for it. That's why OBD 2 is pretty half assed on late 95s, all 96s, and all 97s, and really only gets smart enough to truly find faults around the 98 MY.
 
90 was the closed system.

Jeff, Troy, and I have all had ridiculous problems with the 97. Mine ended up at a good auto electonics place where they discovered that the PCM was grounding through the tail light which was corroded. I piggybacked grounds onto 31 and 32 of the A3 PCM connector. 9 months later, so far, so good.
 
Interesting.

How the hell did I put the closed to open system change on 90 instead of 91? :doh: I helped a friend with his 90 just last week.
 
Zac and I drove the 90 up Old Stage Rd. Saturday. The auxillary fan was not connected but even with warm weather, 2nd and 3rd gear dirt tracking, pretty good elevation gain with somewhat steep climbs in never got over the mid point. It's got a flowkooler water pump that is ten years old, newer thermostat, fluids, and an open, two-row, aluminum plastic radiator from Performance Radiator. It's always ran cool since the radiator was installed as long as it was properly burped.

I had a cheap controller for the fan from Vato-zone that gave up the ghost last year. I had been trying to use a fancy controller that would have two fan speeds, manual control, etc. I had it for a few years before I got around to installing it. I never could get it to work, I must have fried it's little electronics. So I decided to use an ARB locker switch I happened to have lying around. The toggle switch next to it is the actual rear locker switch.

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As you can see I had to cut the lower panel to get it off to fix the steering column. The roll cage kinda gets in the way if you need to do dash work. :)
 
Got bored yesterday so I figured I would bolt my winch plate up and cut the front crossmember to fit the winch. Now just need to figure out how I wanna do the bumper.
IMAG0640.jpg
 
I am not the one who made the plate. But have the steel to do so. And plan to do so as well. I thought about it when I was putting the plate on.
 
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