- Location
- Harrisburg, NC
Valve cover should say 4.7
And it should sound like it has more cylinders than it really does.
Well, the day didn't go as planned....
- Thread starter PacificEd
- Start date
And it should sound like it has more cylinders than it really does.
Cnickgo
Do you need assistance?
- Location
- Monterey, CA
I can provide example/motivation if necessary.
- Location
- Middle Tennessee
I tore town an AMC 6 cylinder Mark and I got years ago. Here was a pleasant surprise.
And then verified it on JeepStrokers.com
Turns out to be a 1972 to 1980 12 weight 258 crank. Crank and rods are in hand. Got more to do.
And then verified it on JeepStrokers.com
Turns out to be a 1972 to 1980 12 weight 258 crank. Crank and rods are in hand. Got more to do.
- Location
- Columbus, In
MORE POWER!!!!
- Location
- Middle Tennessee
I spent some time today and finally got all of the ancient, baked on, caked on, original cork gasket removed from both the engine and the oil pan. Now that that cruddy task has been completed, reassembly of the rear main and pan will commence soon.
This isn't what I wanted to do but it is what needs to happen at this time. I still have to get with RSOR and get my new HD lower control arm brackets welded on my D30. Then off to Fastenal to get new 10.8 grade 10mm bolts for the front control arms.
I'm slowly getting there but now that the gasket issue is over, I feel like getting the old Cherokee back going again.
This isn't what I wanted to do but it is what needs to happen at this time. I still have to get with RSOR and get my new HD lower control arm brackets welded on my D30. Then off to Fastenal to get new 10.8 grade 10mm bolts for the front control arms.
I'm slowly getting there but now that the gasket issue is over, I feel like getting the old Cherokee back going again.
highspeed
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Owens Cross Roads, Alabama
Doesn't it make you feel Good!
So motor is moving along?
So motor is moving along?
- Location
- Middle Tennessee
Yes it does! I was pretty disheartened once finding out what the bearings looked like but it doesn't do me any good sitting idle on the lift. Maybe a clean motor will show up or I can build a stroker using the parts I have now. A reman engine from Groomes is about $1650.
I'm shooting for reassembly in the next few days. I need to work on the oil pan and straighten the lip in a few places. I also need to do some cleaning and then reassemble the rear main and bearing where I had removed the shells.
I'm shooting for reassembly in the next few days. I need to work on the oil pan and straighten the lip in a few places. I also need to do some cleaning and then reassemble the rear main and bearing where I had removed the shells.
- Location
- Middle Tennessee
Today I made the journey to Chattanooga, TN to see Tyler at Rock Solid Off Road Fab (RSOR).
He ordered these beefy lower control arm brackets for me from RockKrawler.
He used those mounts to fix this situation.
So Tyler worked a little plasma action we had sparks.
Soon we had this. Tyler makes doing this kind of work look effortless. The welds were absolutely beautiful.
He then reinforced the passenger side upper control arm mount.
It was a great day. Jack went with me and Tyler is so good with him. Thanks for a great day Tyler.
Now for a little paint on the new parts and the axle will be one step closer to going in.
He ordered these beefy lower control arm brackets for me from RockKrawler.
He used those mounts to fix this situation.
So Tyler worked a little plasma action we had sparks.
Soon we had this. Tyler makes doing this kind of work look effortless. The welds were absolutely beautiful.
He then reinforced the passenger side upper control arm mount.
It was a great day. Jack went with me and Tyler is so good with him. Thanks for a great day Tyler.
Now for a little paint on the new parts and the axle will be one step closer to going in.
- Location
- Middle Tennessee
Okay, the title of this thread came through again. During the day I was ready to haul my XJ to the scrapyard and just take up knitting or something much less stressful.
The day started okay. I got the upper bearing shell and rear main seal installed. I then used the Lucas engine assembly lube to oil all of the lower main bearings. That stuff is pretty cool. The downside is 4 of the 5 main bearings are scratched, grooved or just ugly. I sure hope you guys who said just button it back up and forget what I saw are right.
I then got the pan ready and applied some silicone and new Fel-Pro gasket. This is where things went south. The rear of the seal on the pan has to ride in a grove in the rear main cap. In the process of trying to feed the pan up past the exhaust down pipe and the transmission cooler lines, the gasket kept moving around and nothing wanted to line up right. Arrggghhhh!!!! I got so stinking mad! Trying to line things up by yourself holding the oil pan over your head trying to start bolts is a pain in butt to say the least.
Midway through the 5th time trying to get everything seated, this happened.
I had the starter tied up with wire and supported by the battery cables. Apparently the crimp didn't want to share the weight and let go. Thank goodness the wire held the starter from hitting the floor.
Finally after screaming some not so nice words, I went and get my wife. Next thing you know, the planets aligned and everything just fit together. So we ended up with this.
Then I worked to straighten up the bent and tweaked Rough Country drop brackets. I installed the new bushings in the lower Rubicon Express control arms. I had to swap out one of the alignment brackets due to one being bent (hence the straightening the drop brackets).
I didn't get any pictures but I was fit to be tied trying the fit the much wider bushings/alignment brackets into the bent and tweaked drop brackets. Luckily High2by showed up so things got better with an extra set of hands and eyes.
One of the key items I still was needing to buy were the 10mm upper control arm bolts. They are very hard to find and I just had not gotten to Fastenal to get them. Mark and I went out and found 2 bolts from a parts XJ. Were were able to get the uppers and lowers bolted to the XJ.
We then dragged the axle and set it on jack stands. We were able to get the springs set in and the lower control arms bolted in place.
This is where I ended up for the day. All I lack are the bolts for the axle upper control arms. There will be a few other things to button up but it looks like it's slowly getting put back together.
Yay.
The day started okay. I got the upper bearing shell and rear main seal installed. I then used the Lucas engine assembly lube to oil all of the lower main bearings. That stuff is pretty cool. The downside is 4 of the 5 main bearings are scratched, grooved or just ugly. I sure hope you guys who said just button it back up and forget what I saw are right.
I then got the pan ready and applied some silicone and new Fel-Pro gasket. This is where things went south. The rear of the seal on the pan has to ride in a grove in the rear main cap. In the process of trying to feed the pan up past the exhaust down pipe and the transmission cooler lines, the gasket kept moving around and nothing wanted to line up right. Arrggghhhh!!!! I got so stinking mad! Trying to line things up by yourself holding the oil pan over your head trying to start bolts is a pain in butt to say the least.
Midway through the 5th time trying to get everything seated, this happened.
I had the starter tied up with wire and supported by the battery cables. Apparently the crimp didn't want to share the weight and let go. Thank goodness the wire held the starter from hitting the floor.
Finally after screaming some not so nice words, I went and get my wife. Next thing you know, the planets aligned and everything just fit together. So we ended up with this.
Then I worked to straighten up the bent and tweaked Rough Country drop brackets. I installed the new bushings in the lower Rubicon Express control arms. I had to swap out one of the alignment brackets due to one being bent (hence the straightening the drop brackets).
I didn't get any pictures but I was fit to be tied trying the fit the much wider bushings/alignment brackets into the bent and tweaked drop brackets. Luckily High2by showed up so things got better with an extra set of hands and eyes.
One of the key items I still was needing to buy were the 10mm upper control arm bolts. They are very hard to find and I just had not gotten to Fastenal to get them. Mark and I went out and found 2 bolts from a parts XJ. Were were able to get the uppers and lowers bolted to the XJ.
We then dragged the axle and set it on jack stands. We were able to get the springs set in and the lower control arms bolted in place.
This is where I ended up for the day. All I lack are the bolts for the axle upper control arms. There will be a few other things to button up but it looks like it's slowly getting put back together.
Yay.
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- Location
- Middle Tennessee
After spending some time on Fastenal's website, new 10mm bolts, nuts and washers are now on the way. Stuff says it ships from Indianapolis so it shouldn't take too long to get them.
- Location
- Middle Tennessee
Well, it's almost been a month. I guess I need to get out to the shop and do something new to update my progress....
I ordered and received the bolts from Fastenal as 10mm 10.9 grade bolts seemed impossible to find locally. It was fun going online and finding what I wanted in the grade I needed. The stuff shipped from Indiana and came pretty fast.
I'll post some pictures soon since we all like pictures.
I ordered and received the bolts from Fastenal as 10mm 10.9 grade bolts seemed impossible to find locally. It was fun going online and finding what I wanted in the grade I needed. The stuff shipped from Indiana and came pretty fast.
I'll post some pictures soon since we all like pictures.
- Location
- Middle Tennessee
I decided to get the XJ put back together today to make room for the WrenchFest coming up at the end of January.
Got everything back together and the title of this thread once again holds true.
No oil pressure. Double checked with a mechanical gauge and still nothing.
I give up.
Got everything back together and the title of this thread once again holds true.
No oil pressure. Double checked with a mechanical gauge and still nothing.
I give up.
highspeed
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Owens Cross Roads, Alabama
Man.......hate to hear that! Any knocking?
Did you do anything else to the motor other than what you listed earlier?
Did you do anything else to the motor other than what you listed earlier?
bosco01xj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Lebanon, TN
Don't give up ed! I'm sure you'll get that pressure back. Sometimes it may be the simplest fix.
- Location
- Middle Tennessee
The only thing I did to the engine was remove the cankered on oil pan gasket, clean the bottom end with brake cleaner, install a new rear main, removed the remaining main bearing caps and lubed them with Lucas engine assembly lube just to be sure the brake cleaner didn't remove all the oil, and install the new oil pan gasket.
There is no knocking but you can tell the top end isn't getting oil by the sound of the top end. The gauge in the Jeep did nothing so we got a mechanical gauge and it doesn't read anything either.
The entire front suspension is all reinstalled (other than the sway bar) and it just pisses me off to think of having to remove the oil pan again.
I have no idea what I could have done to go from 40 psi to nothing on startup.
I should have never touched the engine.......that is where everything went south.
There is no knocking but you can tell the top end isn't getting oil by the sound of the top end. The gauge in the Jeep did nothing so we got a mechanical gauge and it doesn't read anything either.
The entire front suspension is all reinstalled (other than the sway bar) and it just pisses me off to think of having to remove the oil pan again.
I have no idea what I could have done to go from 40 psi to nothing on startup.
I should have never touched the engine.......that is where everything went south.
RedHeep
NAXJA #1499
- Location
- Landenberg, PA
How much monkeying around did you do with the oil pan?
I bet you knocked the pickup off the pump. Pull the distributor and the valve cover and spin the pump with a drill and see if you get oil on the top end.
I bet you knocked the pickup off the pump. Pull the distributor and the valve cover and spin the pump with a drill and see if you get oil on the top end.
- Location
- Middle Tennessee
I had a lot of trouble trying to get everything lined up with the gasket until I got another set of hands. I wouldn't think I'd have knocked it lose but I didn't think it could just pop off. According to the views in a 4.0L engine book, the pickup has a tab that clamps in using one of the oil pump bolts. My engine is an 1988 so maybe mine could be different.
- Location
- Middle Tennessee
After Church today I was talking to my Father-In-Law Larry about the oil pressure issues. So I talked him into coming over this afternoon to try and see if we could figure it out.
We ended up pulling the pan which revealed no oil lubrication since many of the crank weights didn't even have oil on them. We then turned to the oil pump. Somebody had been into this before as one of the bolts had two washers on it and there was no gasket between the pump and block.
Once the pump was removed we took off the cover to expose the pump gears and it was dry inside indicating that it wasn't picking up and pumping the oil. So we tried to test it and we couldn't get to pump. We went to a parts engine and pulled the pump from it. Hmmmm, something was different.
I laid the pumps the same way but as you can see, the pickup tubes were different. This may explain why I struggled to get the pan back on (it was a breeze with the second pump).
So we checked out the second pump and oil flowed fine from it. I had nothing to lose so we put in the one that worked with the straight pickup tube (the pump on the left in the picture above).
Everything went back together just fine and we added oil. We fired the engine which was making some racket from no oil going to the valvetrain and withing 10 seconds you could hear the oil hit the top end. Everything got quiet and ran smooth.
We watched the oil pressure gauge (the mechanical one we installed) and noticed the pressure was reading approx 60 PSI cold. It would bounce around some, surging over 60 PSI between 10-15 PSI. Revving the engine causes it to surge too but it flattens out after reaching higher RPM's and holding. We messed with it for about 5 minutes as it was time to clean up and meet my wife and kids in town.
So there is where I ended for the day. I have high oil pressure which I figure is better than no pressure. I now will spend time either looking for a replacement engine to have ready or do a stock rebuild on a Renix engine I already have.
We ended up pulling the pan which revealed no oil lubrication since many of the crank weights didn't even have oil on them. We then turned to the oil pump. Somebody had been into this before as one of the bolts had two washers on it and there was no gasket between the pump and block.
Once the pump was removed we took off the cover to expose the pump gears and it was dry inside indicating that it wasn't picking up and pumping the oil. So we tried to test it and we couldn't get to pump. We went to a parts engine and pulled the pump from it. Hmmmm, something was different.
I laid the pumps the same way but as you can see, the pickup tubes were different. This may explain why I struggled to get the pan back on (it was a breeze with the second pump).
So we checked out the second pump and oil flowed fine from it. I had nothing to lose so we put in the one that worked with the straight pickup tube (the pump on the left in the picture above).
Everything went back together just fine and we added oil. We fired the engine which was making some racket from no oil going to the valvetrain and withing 10 seconds you could hear the oil hit the top end. Everything got quiet and ran smooth.
We watched the oil pressure gauge (the mechanical one we installed) and noticed the pressure was reading approx 60 PSI cold. It would bounce around some, surging over 60 PSI between 10-15 PSI. Revving the engine causes it to surge too but it flattens out after reaching higher RPM's and holding. We messed with it for about 5 minutes as it was time to clean up and meet my wife and kids in town.
So there is where I ended for the day. I have high oil pressure which I figure is better than no pressure. I now will spend time either looking for a replacement engine to have ready or do a stock rebuild on a Renix engine I already have.
Last edited:
RedHeep
NAXJA #1499
- Location
- Landenberg, PA
That fluctuation on the oil pressure guage could just be the result of where or how you have it hooked up.
If it's not making a bunch of noise and you've got oil on the top end, run it.
If it's not making a bunch of noise and you've got oil on the top end, run it.
- Location
- Middle Tennessee
That is the plan. Now I've got some breathing room to buy or build another engine.
