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Using serpentine belt tension gauge

A couple guys at my work were making fun of me for having to use a tension gauge on my belt. They went on about how you just press on it to get 1/4" of play and such. I was like "but how much force should it take to get that 1/4"? You might be able to put 100lbs of force to get the 1/4" where as I might be able to put 200lbs of pressure making mine too tight. Obviously with more force the belt will have more deflection." Same guys that dont use torque wrenches and just 'snug' everything so...

Bottom line, my belt was Half as tight as it should have been and I thought I was running it on the tighter side.
 
Even armed with my new Krikit, I was having issues of a belt constantly chirping on my '92. I went through two new belts -Daytons, IIRC, from Advance, both the cheaper and more costly ones, but it sounded terrible. My Krikit told me that tension was fine. Someone on NAXJA here suggested I try a Gates belt, which I found only at NAPA near me. Now, I just hear the Flowmaster rumbling! And, the Gates was cheaper than either of the two Daycos. Go figure!
 
Just a follow up after a few days driving.

My power windows go up Much faster now, power steering feels much stronger. No issues that I can tell with the belt, no noise, burning smells or visual cues to the belt being too tight.
 
When I first bought the krikit, I thought it didn't work right, as my belt *felt* just fine to me, but the actual measurement was so loose it was off the gauge. Since everything worked fine, I thought it was okay.

Turns out that I was wrong, everything was WAY too lose, and I should have trusted the tool instead of my own supposed torque-tested thumb.
 
Previous post:

" Saw this in another thread-
Quote:
Spec are 190lbs new, new being one that has run less than 15 minutes, 170lbs used, used being one run longer than 15 minutes. "


hubs97xj said:
Saw this in another thread-


Haven't checked the FSM yet, but IIRC the Haynes book suggests numbers in that range as well for both new and used belts. I've got a 97, but I don't believe it would be any different for yours.
Click to expand...

---


Can anyone advise/confirm what the FSM dictates(and what year the manual you are using covers...)??


Thanks.
 
I have a 97 FSM, and it says
*800-900 N (180-200 lbs. force)
(With ** new serpentine belt)
*623-712 N (140-160 lbs. force)
(With ** used serpentine belt)
**Belt is considered new if it has been used 15
minutes or less.
*Specifications for use with a belt tension gauge.
Refer to operating instructions supplied with gauge.
Click to expand...

<edit> I thought I got my numbers from the Haynes manual, but I actually got them here on the forum.
 
Last edited:
Got my Krikit II f/ Oreilys and measured my belt tension at ~ 115lbs. Looks like I need to tighten her up a bit.

It's a pretty slick little tool. I'm also running a Gatorback belt and have always had good luck w/ the Gatorbelt belts.
 
Sorry to bump this old thread but I thought I would share my experience. I think I might have ruined 3 water pumps by setting the belt tension with the krikit. It could just be bad luck or cheap water pumps because the one I have now came from the dealership but I don't want to crank my belt down to find out for sure and ruin my $120 pump. Since lots of people on here have success stories hopefully I just have bad luck with water pumps.
 
OkieXJ said:
Sorry to bump this old thread but I thought I would share my experience. I think I might have ruined 3 water pumps by setting the belt tension with the krikit. It could just be bad luck or cheap water pumps because the one I have now came from the dealership but I don't want to crank my belt down to find out for sure and ruin my $120 pump. Since lots of people on here have success stories hopefully I just have bad luck with water pumps.
Click to expand...

I had one pump bearing go out. I think it was due to me over tightening the belt. I believe it was after that I got the tool. If you put your finger on the belt near the power steering pulling it harder to press down on that if you go further to the water pump pulley. Keeping this in mind I try to find the place on the belt that is in between those two pulleys, then I check the belt tension several times as I adjust the belt tensioner. I have had a FlowKooler for a couple of years now and my belt doesn't squeak. I believe I set it to 110 lbs.
 
'98 FSM Section 7 pages 35 to 38 cover the belt.

Tension:
New Belt 800-900N (180-200Lbs Force)
Used* Belt 623-712N (140-160Lbs Force)

*Used belt is defined as a belt that has ran for at least 15 minutes.

All belts/chains take an initial stretch. If you install a new belt, set it to spec and then run it for the 15 minutes, you will find that the tension has dropped off. Ask anyone who has had a chain driven Motorcycle about new chain stretch.
 
Yeah,
I read the FSM. Those are the guidelines I went by. I usually set it to the minimum of the range for the used belt since my belt was used.
 
I tighten just past squeek. The less stress on the bearings the better... According to me... I would sure rather have to replace a belt once in a while(never had to though), than water pumps, alternators, idlers, AC pumps, PS pumps. ymmv
 
It may depend on the vehicle, but when I tried tightening just past squeak on my 87, I had what used back in the day to be called power steering "pump catch," when the pump could not respond to sudden demand. It would only happen, of course, when you needed it the most in an emergency maneuver, and it never squealed. It went away when I got the tension right with the Krikit.
 
^^And there you go.

I never set a belt to the minimum, but rather the mid-point of the range for used ones.
New belts I set to the maximum and let them stretch out to the used midpoint.
 
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