Trouble installing new rear brake drums and pads

[SteveJ7]

I am having an issue with replacing the rear brake drums and pads on my '98 XJ w/ an 8.25" rear. I used a hardware kit with the new pads. The drums I got are 9" and the pads are 9"x2.5", so I believe I have the correct parts for the job.

The trouble I am having is getting the new drum to fit over the pads. It’s a very very tight fit, with basically no clearance at all between the pads and drum. I tried adjusting the pads, moving the adjuster all the way in and the pads still rub the drum. I messed around adjusting the pads in and out with no luck getting the drum on. I didn’t want to force the drum on, but that seems like it’s the only way it will fit. Does anyone have any suggestions for what to do here? Could the new drums be out of the round, causing it to not want to go on over the new pads?? I couldn’t test fit the old drum either because of the lip of rust around the edge of the inner surface of the drum.

This is really frustrating.

Thanks for your help here!
Steve

 

[RichP]

Did you compress the hydraulic wheel cylinders back in ? they need to go back into their bores.

 

[SteveJ7]

Ahh, I did not do that. Is there anything special I should know about how-to compress the wheel cylinders back in? Can I just use a c-clamp?

 

[RichP]

Ahh, I did not do that. Is there anything special I should know about how-to compress the wheel cylinders back in? Can I just use a c-clamp?

Whatever works, if you added any brake fluid you might want to pop the top on the master and pull some out, as you compress the cylinder it will return to the master cylinder. I use a monster set of channel locks personally. :laugh3:

 

[Eagle]

Ahh, I did not do that. Is there anything special I should know about how-to compress the wheel cylinders back in? Can I just use a c-clamp?

You don't need a c-clamp. The shoes and springs are all in place? Just crack open the bleeder screw on the back of the wheel cylinder and the springs will push the pistons back.

 

[SteveJ7]

Yea, the shoes & springs are all in place. I'll give that a shot when I get home.

Thanks!

 

[Matthew Currie]

If you have new everything including shoes and drums, it will be a pretty tight fit until it wears in, and you can't really judge how tight until the drums are on all the way and the wheels tightened down, because even a little misalignment as you put it on will make it hang up. Assuming you don't have to push so hard you damage the linings (a little wiggling OK, hammering not OK), I'd go ahead and put the brake together, put the wheel on, turn it a few times, and hit the pedal a few times, and see if it settles in.

 

[xxxj-va]

I am having an issue with replacing the rear brake drums and pads on my '98 XJ w/ an 8.25" rear. I used a hardware kit with the new pads. The drums I got are 9" and the pads are 9"x2.5", so I believe I have the correct parts for the job.

The trouble I am having is getting the new drum to fit over the pads. It’s a very very tight fit, with basically no clearance at all between the pads and drum. I tried adjusting the pads, moving the adjuster all the way in and the pads still rub the drum. I messed around adjusting the pads in and out with no luck getting the drum on. I didn’t want to force the drum on, but that seems like it’s the only way it will fit. Does anyone have any suggestions for what to do here? Could the new drums be out of the round, causing it to not want to go on over the new pads?? I couldn’t test fit the old drum either because of the lip of rust around the edge of the inner surface of the drum.

This is really frustrating.

Thanks for your help here!
Steve

E-brake loose? HTH

 

[SteveJ7]

I tried letting some brake fluid out so the calipers could compress more and it didn't really help much. I was able to get the drum on, but it took a few light taps with a rubber mallet (just saw your post Matthew). The drum didn't want to turn freely by hand after it was about half-way on. I guess I'll just finish up the other side today, put the wheels on and test it out.

 

[RichP]

The other thing I've done is take a flat bladed screw driver and push the pistons back in, I have also put the shoes on and squeezed them together, depends on whats handy for tools. If you have the adjuster all the way in and the shoes on, springs and hardware connected right that drum should just go right on with no issues. If it's that tight somethings wrong. Looking at it dead on from the side you should be able to see the lip on the backing plate all the way around and it should not be blocked by the shoes at all.

 

[Storydude]

I tried letting some brake fluid out so the calipers could compress more and it didn't really help much. I was able to get the drum on, but it took a few light taps with a rubber mallet (just saw your post Matthew). The drum didn't want to turn freely by hand after it was about half-way on. I guess I'll just finish up the other side today, put the wheels on and test it out.

Are you SURE you put the shoes on the right side? there is a leading shoe, and a trailing one....If you put both leading shoes on the same side, you will have that problem.

 

[Eagle]

Pay attention to the post a few posts higher -- did you loosen up the parking brake adjusters before installing the new shoes? If not, the parking brake lever is holding the shoes partially out. You should back off on the parking brake adjusters, install and adjust the new shoes, then set the parking brake.

 

[1096xj]

I had same problem. Turned out my e-brake cables were rusted in place, had to replace them. Everything went back together with no trouble.

 

[SteveJ7]

Thanks to everyone for the replies. I figured out what I did wrong (a really careless mistake). I didn't have the shoes on the correct side. Must've got them mixed up when I had to move the Jeep in the garage b/c it started raining.. Sorry excuse, I know. Once I changed the wrong one out, everything fit perfectly. I was able to do the other side in no time.

Thanks again to everyone!