Tried searching, to no avail. Broken rear upper shock mount off sub frame.

[DigJeepsBrah]

I had mentioned this when it happened almost a year ago, never bothered to fix it but I'm getting around to some other work on the Heep today so I figured I'd give it a whack.

Someone had posted a write up, a thread or some pictures of how they remedied this by drilling some holes and bolting the mount back in place instead of welding it back up.. I was hoping to get a hold of that information before I started today.

Thanks in advance, you guys are the best!

-Dustin

 

[DutchVDub]

Are you talking about the nut in the rear upper shock mounts? You broke a bolt off inside it or the weld popped on the nut and it now free spins?

If you broke a bolt off inside of it then your typical bolt extraction procedures apply. If there is enough of a protrusion you can weld a nut to the broken off bolt and try to remove it that way. If there isn't enough of a protrusion then you would drill it out and use an extractor.

If the weld holding the nut in place broke then you would need to cut a hole in the floor above it, weld a new nut in place, and then patch the hole.

 

[DigJeepsBrah]

Dutch,

The entire mount broke off.

 

[YELLAHEEP]

I've seen those fixed several ways, but welding is the least optimal unless you're good at making solid welds upside-down.

I've fixed them using a large punch and hammer and pounding the weld-nuts up and off of that cross-member. You should be able to take your fingers between the cargo floor and the cross-member and feel where the nut is. Once the old nut is off, you can either drop a bolt down or hold a nut there and bolt it back together.

Photo is from this good write-up on how to feed new bolts into place....... http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/diy-no-worries-broken-upper-rear-shock-bolt-repair-556807/

The better fix is to cut a square opening in the cargo floor above the area and remove the old nuts with a chisel and hammer, then weld new nuts on. Weld the floor back over the repair or cut a larger piece of sheet metal to fit over it, screw or rivet it on and seal.

This is a bigger cut than necessary but you should get the idea. Some cut 3 sides and fold it open, then closed after the repair and weld it.

Ya dig?

 

[DutchVDub]

The mount still on your shock isn't the factory mount. The broken off bolts are in the stock mount. There is normally a pin that goes through the eye of the shock and allows you to bolt it into that stock mount.

 

[DigJeepsBrah]

I do dig, Troy. Thanks man! That's what I remember seeing. Now I have a much better idea.

Dutch - So is that a bar pin eliminator set up? Would I be able to use a front shock then? With the pin at the top? (male end) instead of an eyelet? Sorry if that description was garbage. LoL OOoooh or do you mean I need another bar pin to go back to a factory setup?

 

[Xhavier_5478]

Looks like someone used the rear swaybar mount as a homemade BPE, so you can run either style, they might have setup the BPE to use an aftermarket shock length that doesn't come in that length in a bar pin setup.

 

[DigJeepsBrah]

That makes sense.

 

[YELLAHEEP]

No, you won't be able to use an XJ front shock on the rear.

 

[DutchVDub]

Dude, I told you the exact same thing Troy did.

Yes, that was a BPE of sorts. You'll still need to use a rear shock with or without the BPE.

 

[YELLAHEEP]

Dude, I told you the exact same thing Troy did.

Yes, that was a BPE of sorts. You'll still need to use a rear shock with or without the BPE.

LOL..... Easy Dutch, easy there. Justin is one of the Chapter's "special needs" kids.... Ya gotta dumb it down and give 'em LOTS of pics......

 

[DutchVDub]

Next time I'll use Crayons to write my response.

 

[Hypoid]

I like pictures too!

If you want to use bar pins, I have a couple siting around.

 

[DigJeepsBrah]

Hmm.

Thanks Hypoid.