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trail rig and dana 60s

The supposed on the 4.56 Detroit 14 bolt is correct but only military application as I understand. None the less, you can still get them used.

A friend of mine just paid $1400 (plus shipping) for a front 60 and rear 14 bolt with Detroit, 4.56 in both. This was out of a Military truck.
 
There's just major tunnel problems to deal with is all. I believe that's why Jacobs doesn't have a passenger seat. Flip the 300 right off the bat, and chop the axle at the same time. Seems to me you could come out the same length on each side, chop the tube, cut the knuckles off, splice the tubes back together and there you go- no new parts to buy, just a lot of work.

Oh yeah, 14 bolts are good and all that, but the deepest you can go is 5.13- no good in my book. Go buy a 70 and go down to 7.17's
 
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For 37s and 38s, Id just do the d44, d60 or 9in rear

If you need 38s and 39.5s or 42s are in the plan get a d60 front and a d70 rear or 14 bolt rear, its cheeper to get a 35spline 1.5in shafted rear axles then to modify a ford 9 or d60...
Teh d60 fronts are on f350s, years 78 adn 79 are best cuase they have disc brakes, king pin knuckles, and have a longer tube on the drivers side then the 80+ years so making link mounts is easier. Alos the leaf mounts on these are within .5in from the front of your XJ frame so running leafs up front is fairly easy...

If you keep the 4.10 gears your axles will probibly come with and run 37+ tires like you will the rear drive shaft will have alot of strain on it..

If you re-gear to like 5.38s then all is good, your stock np231 with SYE will hold up fine, all the strin will go on the axles not the drive shafts and case...
 
but I'm an east coast wheeler...

wheelspeed is good on our muddy rocky sheit ;) . 5.13s would be fine for any application of mine.

are DOT work trucks the mil-spec stuff too (if any of you know)? I can pick those up all day long for practically pennies


tunnel schmunnel, sheetmetal can be easily (re)moved ;)


I'd rather not have to flip the D300. putting that much time/effort/money starts crossing that line of "polishing a turd" I've got enough dirty rags/shiny turds layin around :rolleyes:
 
What's up Beezil. Yeah sheet metal does suck I plan on chopping a lot of it off of this jeep. I just payed off the project jeep tonight. I definently plan on regearing. If I buy a 4.3 atlas do you guys think that 4.88 or 5.13 will low enough. I still don't know what axles I will get. I can get a ff 60 from a 79 f250 for $100 so I will probably do that. If I find a front 60 from a f350 would the width match up to the f250 rear? TIA, Eric
 
For got to ask what do you guys think a fair price would be for an f250 front 44 and for a f350 front 60? If I get a 44 front I wont have to buy a locker for it just an LSD to replace the detroit I will steal out of my XJ 44.
 
If you're going to buy a stock rear end & upgrade / modify it later than I would go no other route than srtaight to the 9". No other axle has the cheap aftermarket support & upgrade options like the 9". No other axle is easier to upgrade in your garage than the 9". The one down fall does not overcome the benifits it gives. That one downfall is also the reason why the center section is so damn strong. Go 9 or go home!

Eat that OneTooth.

Matt
 
Maybe I am being dumb but what are you saying the down fall of the 9" is? I am open to all options I havent bought any axles yet.
 
azxjman said:
You arent going to want to run the np231 with that combo dana 60 and 39s
Click to expand...

I'm with him... the 231 is definatly the weak link. If I were you, I'd pick up an older 1 ton Chevy w/ the 14b/60 combo and run a Dana 300. You'd save major money over an Atlas and you wouldn't have to buy a flip kit for the 300. My .02 cents.
 
I'm with him... the 231 is definatly the weak link. If I were you, I'd pick up an older 1 ton Chevy w/ the 14b/60 combo and run a Dana 300. You'd save major money over an Atlas and you wouldn't have to buy a flip kit for the 300. My .02 cents.
Click to expand...

:rolleyes:

CRASH
 
I think its kinda like, not helpful to suggest someone chose a particular drivetrain, unless you have first hand experience with it....

call me crazy, but, maybe that mod has some snag in it that shizza might hate you for steering him towards?

I sure as hell wouldn't wanna take that risk.....

shizza is a mean sonovabitch
 
I would also add that the 300 is a long ways from being considered a "strong T-case". Maybe it's stronger than the 231 but still not strong.

I know about a dozen people who have either busted the entire case, the output shaft tailcone or the output itself on the Dana 300.
You can put in a larger 32 spline output shaft on it and make it stronger but that's more money again.

There's dozens of options on T-cases and the first one to look it is what you already have. Everyone after that is different degrees of money.
First off, you'll have an adapter of some sort.
You may have some upgrades required - stronger output, 4:1, etc.
Each case will have it's draw backs and additional costs.

There are many, many more T-cases out there other than the 231, the 300 and the Atlas.
I would look hard at what you have first and KNOW all that's involved in making a decision to go with something else.

On the something else market, sticking with driver's side drop T-cases (I'm no fan of P drop cases in a Cherokee - planned to do it myself and changed plans after evaluating).
Ford used NP 205s - toughest case ever made and most worthless 1.96:1 low range ever made but can be mated to an NP203 gear reduction box for almost 4:1.
Any 88 and newer Chevy 1/2 ton has a D side drop chain drive case.
Any 92 and newer Chevy 1 ton has a super strong D side drop case.
All 94 and newer Dodge 1/2, 3/4 and 1 ton have D side drop cases.
Not sure if slip yoke eliminators are available for all the later model truck chain drives.

My long winded point being....
What you've got is already good for a 4.0l block - honestly. It probably won't last for forever, but future replacement is not an exlcusive option and good upgrades are available.
If you want to go exploring for other options........ go exploring. Theres a bundle of enticing candidates out there that are very strong units and also D side drop.
 
JeepFreak21 said:
I'm with him... the 231 is definatly the weak link. If I were you, I'd pick up an older 1 ton Chevy w/ the 14b/60 combo and run a Dana 300. You'd save major money over an Atlas and you wouldn't have to buy a flip kit for the 300. My .02 cents.
Click to expand...

Any one who backs AZXJman these days definately has balls!! :eek: :) :)

Joe XJ: "Billy, you got hair on your chest?"

Billy: "No, don't need to, I back AZXJman!!"

:) :) :) :) :)
 
What i'm doing right now is a D70B from a 82 F350 Dually for the rear and a chevy king pin D 60 for the front. The front is now shortened 3" and the pumpkin was moved to the drivers side. They already have 5.86 gears and detroits, the front will be 35 spline Moser inners and outers, the rear already has 35 spline shafts.

I was thinking D60 rear but i picked the D70 with detroit and 7.17 gears really cheap (in real words a steal) so this was a no-brainer.

Will post pictures later if anybody's interested.:D
 
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