Towing Xj To Moab

Casper

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Payson, Arizona
Well once again a new problem with no answers. I welded the D35 rear to try this year, but the XJ would not follow the ZJ at all. I mean not even a few yards. It wanted to go it's own way. Well, I call 4 Wheeler supply and they claim it is the rear welded locker. So I purchase a Lock-rite, install it, as well as the one in the front D30, which also has a lockrite. I took my time to make the tow bar and hitch as level as almost perfect so there would be no problems. I call (as well as get info from others) the dealer and ask the proper way to tow. (Start the engine and put the transfer case in "N", and then put the gear shift in "N", then return the gear shift to "P", and leave the transfer case in "N" and shut off the engine. Remembering to leave the keys in the on position for open steering.
Well all that has been done more than once, the only thing I have not done yet is connect my front anti-sway bar connections. I am leaving them solid until Moab, and then I will take them off. I have allot of miles on the o'l XJ and didn't want to drive it this year, so we are hoping to get this problem fixed before to long, so I do not have to mail the registration information to whom ever over night. We would reallly like to make it. We have missed the last two, and hate to miss another.
So if any of you great mechanics have the secrect, please pass it on...............................................................................................
I have been working on this project now for over 3 weeks, makes me look really stupid doesn't it.

Thanks,
Casper
 
I'm with Bob on this one. I've been in a couple near fatal accidents because of flat towing. Yours sounds like it could be the next one. I realize money is getting tight for all of us, but is your life worth saving a hundred bucks? It really sucks when you're staring straight at an 18 wheeler who's doing 70 mph and he's heading straight for your wife's door cuz you're jackknifed in the middle of the highway. Think I've been there?

The only thing I could suggest is to remove the lockers and tow it like that. That's only if you feel like waisting half a day putting everything back together when you get to slickrock.

Sean
 
I spoke to Casper already, but for the rest of you.........you can't flat tow with lockers like you can with open diffs. The 231 does not have a true neutral, it disconnects from the trans but hooks the front and rear together so you're basically towing in 4wd. This works fine with open diffs, but if you are locked up it can scatter your t-case, and then take drivelines and other parts with it. A few poor souls have found this out the hard way. Either get a trailer or disconnect the drivelines, remove one or disconnect both.

A 2wd low range kit from JB conversions or Tera also includes a true neutral, a very good (and inexpensive) modification if you'll ever need to flat tow.
 
Goatman said:

A 2wd low range kit from JB conversions or Tera also includes a true neutral, a very good (and inexpensive) modification if you'll ever need to flat tow.

Later year 231 have a true nutral. Replacements go right in older ones. They are even way cheaper than the 2 low kits.

mark
orgs mfg
 
I guess I've been really lucky.....

I flat towed the Heep for a couple of years until I got the trailer and never had any serious problems - even on the long trip to and from Moab. A couple of weeks ago, I towed it for a 90 mile round trip and had absolutely no issues. I had just installed a different D30 with solid locker too. I currently have front and rear lockers, 35x10.5's and the Tera 2 and 4 low kit. Not so much as a wobble or hop from the Heep. I can take tight turns in parking lots and the front wheels of the Heep follow right along.

I think alot of these flat towing issues seem to stem from the way the transfer case disconnects into neutral, a good alignment, having the front swaybar connected, and tire pressures.

My buddy had only a rear locker, 33x9.50's and a 6" lift and he had all kinds of problems. Mainly, his jeep would steer the opposite from the way his truck went which meant he was always jumping out to straighten the wheels. You could see the tires wobble side to side like they wanted to follow but then suddenly pitch to the other direction.

He seems to have solved the problem by setting the caster back a few degrees, using 35 lbs of tire pressure and getting 10.5 inch tires.

Skinny tires suck for towing - especially bias plys or ones with aggressive lugs like Super Swampers. Too much side wall deflection side to side.

I would definitely recommend taking the drive shafts out for the trip as added insurance though.

Also, I have the adjustable shocks (RS9000's) and it makes a big difference if you tow it with them set up good and stiff - soft ride allows for more body movement and that encourages the swaying and wobbling.

HTH!

Troy
 
I flat towed with a 1/2 ton truck for a year and I had it jack knife on me once on a dirt road. Never had any problems on the highway or any paved roads. I now tow with a 3/4 ton Dodge CTD and I almost can't even feel it behind me. The Jeep is locked front and rear, 242 t-case, 5.5", and 35" tires.
 
I am looking to tow our 94 (manual/231/Lockright in rear) to Moab on a dolly with front wheels up. If I disconnect rear shaft from the pinion and hang it, I should be good to go right? I searched the net and keep seeing warnings to not use a dolly for an XJ. If the rear shaft was off though, see no reason I couldn't... even with locker. TIA, JP
 
Should be fine Jason. Don't tell me your going to tow it behind the Focus. :D

I've towed my on a dolly a few times and I alway's just pulled the rear shaft.

Lincoln
 
towing on a dolly

I towed mine back from Moab to Tennessee on a dolly when the rear end gears burned up. dropped the driveshaft and bought a F-250 diesel. no problem! :D
 
Hold up...one more thing about dropping that shaft!

When you pull the slipyoke out you might loose all yoru TC fluid! I know that at some point they updated the design so that it no longer happens, I just thought that I'd alert you to it.

If you start to lose fluid when you pull it you have a couple choices. You can drain the fluid and refill when you're in Moab, or you can find an output shaft plug, they're around, post on ModTech and somebody will hook you up.

Sequoia
 
I guess I REALLY got luckly as I flat towed my XJ from California to Moab twice, and to Colorado with a D35 and a lock right. I towed with a '99 2500 Ram.
 
I've never had much of a problem flat towing, but my dad had a front tire blow on the vehicle in tow once. :eek: He didn't lose it, but it was close.

After that we alway's tie the wheel so it can't turn much. It doesn't conner as well but it keeps the wheel from spinning sharply if something happens.

GSequoia, another way is to just remove the axle end and tie the drive line up and secure it. No loss of fluid, but make sure it's tied well enough it does slip out.

Thanks for the reminder gentlemen. I forgot all about my dad flat towing his YJ down there. His is a little easier, disconnect axle front and no lockers.

Lincoln
 
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