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to swap or not to swap.....

I did searching on wikipedia.org abou dry sump

A dry sump is a lubricating oil management method for four-stroke and large two-stroke piston internal combustion engines that uses a secondary external reservoir for oil, as compared to a conventional wet sump system.
Four-stroke engines are lubricated by oil which is pumped into various bearings and thereafter allowed to drain to the base of the engine. In most production cars, which use a wet sump system, this oil is simply collected in a three to seven litre capacity pan at the base of the engine, known as the oil pan, where it is pumped back up to the bearings by the oil pump, internal to the engine. In a dry sump, the oil still falls to the base of the engine, but rather than being collected into an oil pan, it is pumped into another reservoir by one or more scavenger pumps, run by belts from the front or back of the crankshaft. Oil is then pumped from this reservoir to the bearings of the engine by the pressure pump. Typical dry sump systems have the pressure pump and scavenger pumps "stacked up", so that one pulley at the front of the system can run as many pumps as desired, just by adding another to the back of the stack.
A dry sump affords many advantages, namely increased oil capacity, decreased parasitic loss and a lower center of gravity for the engine. Because the reservoir is external, the oil pan can be much smaller in a dry sump system, allowing the engine to be placed lower in the vehicle; in addition, the external reservoir can be as large as desired, whereas a larger oil pan raises the engine even further. Increased oil capacity by using a larger external reservoir leads to cooler oil. Furthermore, dry sump designs are not susceptible to the oil starvation problems wet sump systems suffer from if the oil sloshes in the oil pan, temporarily uncovering the oil pump pickup tube. Having the pumps external to the engine allows them to be maintained or replaced more easily, as well.
Dry sumps are common on larger diesel engines such as those used for ship propulsion. Many race cars, supercars, and aerobatic aircraft also utilize dry-sump equipped engines because they prevent oil-starvation at high g loads and because their lower center of gravity positively affects performance.
On the downside, dry sump systems add cost and complexity, and the extra pumps and lines require more oil, so maintenance costs go up as well.


 
Hey, spelius, that's really good information! any idea where we could fund one of these systems? I can TIG weld, so that is not an issue for me. I see this as a very plausible option for this swap!
 
I sent couple of emails today so we will see, if there is someone who could help. I am trying to find whole "bolt on" kit for us

If this one would not be successful either, I am gonna cut my jeep into slices and throw them into a massive fire in a middle of my garage :flame:

:wierd:
 
hahahahaha! DON'T DO THAT!!!:nono: just find a different engine...:bawl:

A bolt-on kit would be fantastic. I think that would give plenty of clearance.:cool:
 
hi again... GOOD NEWS ENVERYONE - after a few days searching and sending emails I found Armstrong Race Engine Systems who could help us with dry sump kit

their web site is www.drysump.com

They are from Orangevale CA, contact Gary for more information...
I am in contact with him, they actually do not do dry sump kits for Mercedes engines, but they could start

[email protected]
 
wow! That would be amazing if they would! Thank you so much spelius for all your hard work on this!
 
I just stumbled on this thread and didn't feel like reading through all 5 pages of junk. Did you ever find a place to build an adapter plate? There used to be a shop in Nevada City, CA, that was making adapter plates to bolt mercedes diesels into toyota land rovers and such. I'm sure they could make something for you... I'll look up the shop if you are still interested.
 
no, we never really came up wit one. If you could find it that would be awesome!
 
This is not such a good news for me, price for whole kit (they will modify my oil pan and support oil pump, oil links, belt and oil tank) is 3200 $
and it is too much for me...
I bought an engine crane/lift so this week I would like to try how much clearence it actually has and than make result which way to go...

For this amount of money I would rather go for 6,5" lift and do some cutting
 
wow, that is expensive! what if one of us here was able to purchase it? would it be any cheaper? than we could ship it to you for probably a lot less money!

definately check out the clearance issues, but I think that my jeep, which has 5" of lift would only clear it by about 3". I looked at it with a friend and we both came up with the same answer of not enough clearance.
 
thanks for your offer mate, but it is still a lot of money...

I have seen some 6.5" X-series Rough Country Suspension Kit for $ 995 so I would like to go for it and than turn oil pan around and modify it. I want to keep original oil pump and just cut the oil pan. If you have a look on the oil pump lower chainwheel possition, you will see the "step" from this point it is 5,5 cm (approx. 2") to the bottom. I would like to cut it there and turn it around... So = 6,5" lift and 2" oil pan cutting is 8,5"... and this could be enough... teoreticaly... hopefuly...

Do you have any experience with this lift and Rough country brand? It is not long arm but could be all right I guess...
 
I do not have experience with this lift, but there are plenty of people on here that have. I'm anxious to see what comes of your expirementing! if yours is successful, this will be fantastic news for a lot of us!
 
tayman said:
I do not have experience with this lift, but there are plenty of people on here that have. I'm anxious to see what comes of your expirementing! if yours is successful, this will be fantastic news for a lot of us!

me too mate... me too :laugh:
 
any new developments Spelius?
 
anything helps, thanks!
 
i can't wait to see someone do this RIGHT. and they better document it well too! if i have to be the first, it may be a year or more but I will. i love my 300d and i love my jeep. what could be better than the two combined?
 
Link isn't kosher for me... not working

I'm still semi-interested in doing the swap... Crap, and I had a free XJ chassis to play with too... I shoulda started messing with it.
 
If you still havent made up your mind
look for the toyota 1KDFTV its a 3.0l 4 banger turbo IC with 350 NM & 160 bhp

& the best part is that it will bolt to the AW4 by swap the bell housing with A340 tranny

Hmmm... This is quite an interesting option. Power is similar to the 4.0. A little tune with an intercooler and this could be a very nice swap.

The 1KD-FTV is a 3.0L (2982cc) straight-4 common rail diesel engine with a variable geometry turbocharger and Intercooler. It has 16 valves and a DOHC (double overhead camshaft) design. Bore is 96 mm and stroke is 103 mm. It generates 170 hp (125 kW) at 3400 rpm, and 260 lbf·ft (352 N·m) of torque at 1800-3400 rpm.
 
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