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TNT, Krawler and RE but why?

I run the tnt kit and have not had any problems with it yet, it flexs well and drives nice on the road. One thing though is that the claytons arms are a few inches longer then the tnt kit.

-Alex
 
What happened to your explanation, I was just gonna comment you on the good research?
 
You were doing fine, can't fault someone for being educated on a subject.
 
88 Honcho said:
just thinking, what about the rustys kit
Better put your fire suit on :flame:
 
I understand that there are many other kits out there that have there advantages and RK is no slouch. However in my experience I ahve some reasons for not wanting a parallel type suspension.

1. I don't agree with placing all of the push load on one axle mount that was designed by jeep to be one of TWO mounts and considering that jeep manufatured those mounts to be as cost effective as possible. Maybe if they somehow beefed up the axle mount.

2. Any type of parallel suspension ( whether it be a triangulated 4 bar, a 3 link, a 5 link or the more common 4 bar) is designed to be a geometrically consistent as possible. And to be infinitely adjustable, however this exsists with multiple verticle mounts for each bar. This is a great design and it works wonders to maintain pinion angle and caster curve but unless you are going 100 mph across the pinnacles in Ridgecrest, it is a moot point. When you are litterally crawling over rocks, your pinion angle is secondary since it is turning slow.

3. I understand that parallel kits are strong and do a great job I am just stating that in this particular case, simplicity is more important. Radius arms (ladder bar, y-link, etc) are a very simple and effective way to locate the axle and they remove the mind numbing mathmatical equations that go with the parallel setup (like axle preload, instant center, roll center, COG, etc). I am not saying that the customer needs to know this information, but it lends to the fact it is complicated and the likelihood of failure is higher.

As far as solid stock vs. tubing, I am no metalergist but I have been told that strength is a close relationship between surface area and wall thickness. With thin wall you loose wall but with solid you loose surface.

With suspension loading that occurs when the suspension is bound and being held in place by a stronger force (usually traction) and it unloads when that force is weakened or removed. If your suspension is tuned right then there is little to no bind then it does not "load," yet another benifit to radius arms-the only thing it can bind with is the steering or the d-line (d-line is pretty flexible and all suspension have to contend with the steering).

I am in no way flaming RK, their kit has to work, otherwise the company would not make it and people would not be happy with it, but on the other hand the radus arm system is just as widely used with customers that are just as happy.

The above are only reasons why I do not want a parallel linked kit.:eyes: Don't come looking for me please.

I think that was all of it razdrvr
 
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I have heard mostly bad things about Rusty's. I have no experience with them but I have heard customer service is poor, manufacturing is sometimes inconsistent and some people don't like the way it mounts.
 
LOL, that looks like it to me.
Good job. It's nice to see some people making educated decisions and not just following the hype.
 
Clayton here. I would tell you about all the negative but I can't find any. It's a very simple and strong setup. The only problem I've had is droping coils when I'm not trying to. Limit straps are in the budget.
 
about to run the RE crossmember with custom lower arms built with there sf adj uppers on my jeep...its all BEEF!!!!
 
I am running TNT, have done so for a year now and like it...do alot of fast stuff, as well as some crawling....

I have wheeled with a guy that has an RE kit, and articulation is virtually identical......

As for the RK kit, I dont have personal experience with it, but I know MattyJ beats the snot out of his XJ, so I would trust his word..
 
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