TJ Rubicon axles in an XJ

casm said:
What I basically want is a solid understanding of what may be involved in doing the swap. That's all.


1) Bolt in the front (links, steering, brakes, etc).
2) Get TomWoods to make the front driveshaft.
3) Torch all the TJ brackets off the rear axle. Buy spring perches ($50.00), set it under the springs with the perches loose and the ubolts just tight enough to hold it all together. Get it centered and the pinion angle correct, tack weld the perches.
4) Weld some lower shock mounts on the rear axle
5)Unbolt rear axle, finish weld perches
6)bolt in rear axle, connect brakes, etc.
7)swap in proportioning valve from Rubi.
8)Get TomWoods to make the rear driveshaft.
9) Rig up a compressor setup from ARB with Dash switches.
10) Wheel it like a rental

If you put your mind to it, and have all the parts in front of you, it's a weekend project with the exception of having the shafts done. Thats a 48 hr wait.
 
toyworx said:
1) Bolt in the front (links, steering, brakes, etc).
2) Get TomWoods to make the front driveshaft.
3) Torch all the TJ brackets off the rear axle. Buy spring perches ($50.00), set it under the springs with the perches loose and the ubolts just tight enough to hold it all together. Get it centered and the pinion angle correct, tack weld the perches.
4) Weld some lower shock mounts on the rear axle
5)Unbolt rear axle, finish weld perches
6)bolt in rear axle, connect brakes, etc.
7)swap in proportioning valve from Rubi.
8)Get TomWoods to make the rear driveshaft.
9) Rig up a compressor setup from ARB with Dash switches.
10) Wheel it like a rental

If you put your mind to it, and have all the parts in front of you, it's a weekend project with the exception of having the shafts done. Thats a 48 hr wait.

Why would he need a new front drive shaft? Different u-joint or something?
 
Kejtar said:
LP vs HP means different length

I just swapped a HP D30 into my 2000 XJ (came with a LP D30). Part number on the drive shaft that came with the HP was the same that was on my 2000. No problems so far...
 
Casm.

Stick with the D30 in the front if your only going to run 31~32 tires with 4:10's.

I have run that set up for the last 7 years and have not broke anything. I would upgrade the rear to a D44 out of an XJ and skip the rubi axles altogether.

You should look into the superior kit for the D30, and D44, that way you get arb in front, detroit rear, and chro-mo shafts.. Way strong... Probibly a lot less than rubi axles.

I will have a good used D30 hp W/4:10's available when I finally finish my D44Hp that I am building.

Scott.

Just my .02$
 
What they said before, stick with the 30 up front and throw an XJ D44 in back or buy a Super 35 kit and call it a day. I think the real reason you want the Rubicon axles is so you can put the Rubicon stickers on your Jeep. Now tell the truth :anon:
 
Clean-RC: I don't disagree with you - in fact, what you've described was actually pretty close to the first option I considered. Right now the TJ Rubicon axles aren't a definite, just one avenue I've been considering. Of course, if they're priced out of my range it's not going to happen. And right now I have no idea what I'll be able to get them for when it comes time to shop - I've been getting informal quotes of between $1200 and $3500 per end. The main thing I like about them is that I can accomplish a number of planned mods in one shot (and one weekend) while retaining single-manufacturer compatibility.

Heep said:
I think the real reason you want the Rubicon axles is so you can put the Rubicon stickers on your Jeep. Now tell the truth :anon:

Heh... That'll be going on there about as soon as the 'Trail Rated' badge will be :D
 
im sure for $1200-3500 somebody will be willing to build you a hp 44 front
 
Ive heard a lot of discussion about torching off the coil buckets on the rear axle.Here is another possibility Ive seen at my local off road shop conver to coil springs and long arms in the rear.
 
Back
Top