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Time for skids... 11ga good enough?

anthrax323

NAXJA Forum User
Location
San Antonio, TX
I've recently purchased and familiarized myself with a new Miller 211 and Powermax45, and have since knocked out a few projects for friends and community outreach events with my employer... Now I'm ready to build a few things for myself. Skids are at the top of the list since I've got the exhaust torn out for re-engineering.

My question is this: for a non-KoH wheeler, is 11ga sufficient? I'm looking at building a gas tank skid first, followed by a new transmission crossmember that will incorporate a T-case skid (possibly an oil pan/downpipe skid as well since I keep slamming it on rock shelves).

I know 3/16" is the de-facto armor standard, but I have a 4x8 sheet of 11ga that was purchased for my last project that didn't end up being used due to a time shortage. Also, I have yet to re-gear, so weight is a concern.

These skids will be fully templated, so I'm not looking for them to outlast the vehicle. I'd have no problems building replacements if they get too thoroughly beaten.

Thoughts?
 
Right on, thanks for the input guys. I really think it'll be plenty for the gas tank skid. I'm having second thoughts about it for the transmission crossmember though, as I don't want to take a hard hit and wind up with a cockeyed driveline.

I think I just need to go buy a sheet of 3/16" as well. I'm becoming a big fan of having tons of different steel stock on hand.
 
I kinda feel the same way, but just don't see a whole lot of evidence of people using 11ga (or thinner) material for skids on XJs.

Am I wrong for thinking that 11ga is too thin for the transmission crossmember/T-case skid? Seems like an abuse-prone *and* load-bearing component might need to be thicker (my stamped factory one is completely smashed, but somehow still usable).
 
What are you backing it with? I'd be hesitant. I build some thinner stuff and it's not so much replacing it but when it's beat to crap it's tough to get a new widget in there to fit as well as the first one did. Yeah 3/16" is heavy but alot of bracing adds up quick as well unless you are using thin wall tubing.

For kicks I drew up a couple skidplate designs awhile back. On with light gauge steel and alot of bracing and one with 1/4" steel and some material removal and minimal bracing. I got the 1/4" version to be lighter.
 
my rockers 1/4"
https://scontent-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/297265_205800426141048_4350323_n.jpg

my crossemember is 1/4"
https://scontent-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/1184983_530946056959815_1087571640_n.jpg

my Tcase skid is rustys, 3/16".

considering i put the entire weight of the vehicle on these, i wouldnt go any thinner than 3/16. i dont wheel as hard as many on here, and ive deffinantly got 1/8 scars in my sliders, and a frowny face in my Tcase skid. 11ga. on a gas tank skid? i can see that being ok.
 
Good deal, thanks for the tips guys. Sounds like I need to hold off til I set up a good finger/pan brake in my garage... At that point, I also think 11ga on the gas tank skid would be fine, especially with a couple angle iron reinforcements across the belly of it (inside).
 
I would not unless its for exterior panel protection that would not take the full weight of the vehicle dropping on it.
 
I wouldnt run .120 wall for a gas skid unless you are reinforcing it with some angle, square or some other sort of tube since you really only want to build it once but if you are doing that go for it. I would imagine a sheet of .250 wall just for the bottom of the tank skid would be fine. . If you really want to use up what you have, double the thickness in the center of the thing, and then build some reinforcement across it .
 
I wouldnt run .120 wall for a gas skid unless you are reinforcing it with some angle, square or some other sort of tube since you really only want to build it once but if you are doing that go for it. I would imagine a sheet of .250 wall just for the bottom of the tank skid would be fine. . If you really want to use up what you have, double the thickness in the center of the thing, and then build some reinforcement across it .

My tank skid is .120. I can lift the jeep up using a floor jack under it. I haven't dropped down on a rock on it yet though, so no real world experience here.
 
mako my day - What type of skid? Home made?

Honestly, I have yet to hit my gas tank hard on anything (as far as I know) so I don't think I need an end-of-days gas tank skid. Just an insurance policy in case I eventually do, and want to make the drive home. I do, however, slam down on my OEM trailer hitch (namely the wiring box) really, really hard every single f'ing time I go wheeling, so I'm not opposed to an insurance policy.
 
I have the 1/8" tomken tank skid. I added a couple of additional supports towards the front of the skid up to the unibody frame.
In my opinion, it's definitely strong enough in this application.
 
I built my skids to take beatings. The t-case skid is 1/4" and I would not feel comfortable with it any thinner.


Most importantly you need to deal with what they skids attach to. The unibody is only 16ga, think of reinforcing it before anything else.
 
built my belly pan out of 10ga backed by 1.5x1.5x.125 box tube has held up great under my heavy rig

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Got Bolts?
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Full Shot
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New Paint this summer
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made it a 2 piece too, makes install and removable alot easier
 
Ha! I dig it - need to remember that, lol. Hope I don't flop anytime soon though.

Frame stiffeners are a really, really good call. I've been toying with the idea of a Full Traction long-arm setup since I need longer shocks anyway, and want to weld their brackets into frame stiffeners (I've gotten over the idea of reversible mods on this thing).
 
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